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Thread: power steering control valve adjustment.

  1. #1
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    power steering control valve adjustment.

    Can someone save me some time this question ma have been discussed prior to this. I want to increase the steering input amount needed to activate the power assist. I am assuming tightening the spring on the control valve will accomplish that goal,
    Thanks
    Hawkowner.

  2. #2
    President Member r1lark's Avatar
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    First off, from the terminology you are using, I'm assuming your car is equipped with the Bendix linkage type system, as opposed to an integral Saginaw system.

    We may be talking about semantics here, but I look at this adjustment on the Bendix system as more getting the 'free play' out of the power steering system, but it does somewhat impact the 'feel' of the steering. However, this power steering will never have the "feel" of modern power steering. To me it's more in the middle between the old Chrysler "hardly any road feel" power steering and more modern power steering, but that's just my opinion.

    What I do is make a mark on the stud and the nut as to where I start, then tighten one flat of the nut, and drive the car. Usually then each successive adjustment would be less of a turn. When I get to the point that the steering is not returning to center correctly coming out of turns, I back off a small amount. I have found it's a very fine line between getting the least play in the system and the steering re-centering itself correctly. I'm pretty anal about something like this, so adjusting the thing 5 to 10 times is not unusual for me; those who are not as anal as I am could probably do it in 3 or 4 adjustments.

    Remember safety though.........make sure the car is supported properly, don't get under it just with a hydraulic jack supporting it.
    Last edited by r1lark; 02-27-2018 at 09:10 AM.
    Paul
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    President Member Dwain G.'s Avatar
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    There is only one correct adjustment, but Stude did offer a stronger centering spring (#1545318) in 1962, mainly to correct slow return to center from turns. They stated that it also "will increase, slightly, the steering effort at lower car speeds and at parking."
    With some web searching it may be possible to find an even stronger spring from a Ford maybe. I also wonder if the control valve on your car now is original or a replacement intended for a heavier car.
    Last edited by Dwain G.; 02-27-2018 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Part no.

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    President Member r1lark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwain G. View Post
    There is only one correct adjustment, but Stude did offer a stronger centering spring (#1545318) in 1962, mainly to correct slow return to center from turns. They stated that it also "will increase, slightly, the steering effort at lower car speeds and at parking."
    With some web searching it may be possible to find an even stronger spring from a Ford maybe. I also wonder if the control valve on your car now is original or a replacement intended for a heavier car.
    Thanks for this information Dwain, I was not aware of that revised spring.
    Paul
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  5. #5
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    If you want to increase the force to activate the steering valve you need to use a stiffer set of springs. I did this many years ago to improve the steering feel on one of my cars.

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    I have good return to center on a left tun but no return from a right turn Slightly more steering effort on right turn. Guess I will try tightening the little spring

  7. #7
    President Member r1lark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkowner View Post
    I have good return to center on a left tun but no return from a right turn Slightly more steering effort on right turn. Guess I will try tightening the little spring
    That sounds like you have an issue somewhere that needs to be found and fixed. Did you replace the two seals on the control valve? If so, maybe one is on backwards or it got nicked/torn putting the valve back in?

    Is your steering wheel straight up and the wheels straight ahead when the steering box is on it's high spot?

    Are all your suspension components well greased, especially the bearings on top of the spindle (sandwiched between the spindle and kingpin -- the spindle thrust bearings)?

    I'm sure others will add their suggestions.
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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    The gear lash is set on the high point.
    The seals in the control valve are square cut O Rings.King pin greased with the wheels off the ground.Sill trying to get it straight in my head how one spring is light and sprind on the ball end is heavy and what the action is.
    Hawkowner

  9. #9
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    IIRC, the seals on the control valve spool are not square cut, but have a beveled edge. Stop by and I will show you the proper seals.
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    The stronger spring mentioned I assume goes on the rod under the cap. I am fighting an no right turn to return center problem left turn return is good.Car drives good with no pull. Steering box is set on high point. I have tried the spring both tight and loose
    Hawkowner

  11. #11
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    Contact Strangers Site dot com....the experts on power steering....they do it all....even make new spool valves
    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkowner View Post
    The stronger spring mentioned I assume goes on the rod under the cap. I am fighting an no right turn to return center problem left turn return is good.Car drives good with no pull. Steering box is set on high point. I have tried the spring both tight and loose
    Hawkowner

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawklover View Post
    Contact Strangers Site dot com....the experts on power steering....they do it all....even make new spool valves
    ------stangerssite.com jimmijim
    Anything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

  13. #13
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    Here is something to consider...

    How often do you grease up your front suspension? What do you watch for to indicate that the grease has reached all the lube points? Do you drive when it is wet or raining out? These are questions I was asked by a long time Stude driver I knew in Winnipeg, Mb. Duncan was a traveling salesman who ONLY drove Hawks as his work vehicle.

    Now for the answers. He told me I should try to grease the car after any and every drive in excessive rain or springtime melt. I need to watch the upper thrust bearings to see grease starting to ooze through them. If I see grease oozing through the lower pivot point just above the lower control arm pin I have a bad flat seal and I need to change it RIGHT NOW or I won't get grease to the upper thrust bearing and it will rust out and start to seize. I will also need to grease the tie rod boots. If they are after-market boots without a positive seal, and which ones aren't nowadays, they can get hydraulically packed with water (like the upper thrust bearings) so wear your raincoat when you grease them. Essentially he said "water is the enemy, grease is your friend".

    There are up to 20+ grease points on a Stude front end and you can't afford to miss any of them. Having a lift makes my life so much easier but if you have to use a commercial outfit (Jiffy Lube, etc.) make sure they get them all.

    Norm

  14. #14
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    Jiffy Lube is the worst......for many reasons.....first reason is that the car is driven over a "pit".....which means the front end will remain under load.......a Stude front end should be lubed un-loaded.....ie.....the car raised on a lift via the frame.

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