I had the same questions. I looked on ebay, and found a replacement cap and rotor, but not the module. It seems unlikely that they would be available at parts stores, so if I were to purchase the distributor, I would want to travel with a spare cap, rotor, and module. I don't really mind points and condenser, but my delco dizzy is pretty worn, and the cost to rebuild is higher than this replacement. A little hotter spark is a nice thought also.
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Originally posted by Dan White View PostAs noted the modules are available from the seller on their website. I think another poster noted that they are $20.
(More) The reason I asked this is because I can't find the modules ( except for Ford type) on their site...64 GT Hawk (K7)
1970 Avanti (R3)
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Originally posted by 11SecAvanti View PostMade the HEI install on a test engine stand and no issues on install or start up. Went with the light gold spring and gold bushings for quick mechanical advance off idle. Nice and steady control timing at 2500 rpm timing. Set the static advance at 10 degrees and recorded a mechanical advance of 20 degrees for 30 total. So a 12 would give the ideal 32 degrees mechanical. Like the quick ramp up of the timing. On the wires go with any snap fit spiral core 8 mm size and cut the lengths required.
A-Team Performance SBC BBC Small & Big Block Chevy 305 327 350 454 Small Base Cap R2R Distributor. For small block and big block engines. Small base and cap for space savings. With this distributor all you need is an external coil, the 2 wires will hook up to it and you're "ready to run".
Again, this unit IS NOT THE SAME SELLER, SO MAY NOT HAVE ANY OF THE SAME INTERNALS. Just posting what I found. Put it on my Sun distributor machine and at 1500 rpm it actually RETARDED the timing 8 crank degrees. It did not reach full mechanical advance (which was 20 crank degrees) until 7000 rpm!!!!!! I am sending it back. I took it apart and tried replacing the very strong springs with the weakest ones I had on hand. Still had to go 5000 rpm to get full mechanical advance, and still had the retard issue. I think I figured out the retard issue. Look at the two pics of the reluctor wheel. It spins a few degrees on the shaft because that groove in the shaft is too wide. Real piece of crap.
Would appreciate it if the next guy who purchases a CRT for a Studebaker would take a pic with the cap and rotor off so I can see if it has the same internals as the one I bought for the chevy engine.
This one from CRT looks EXACTLY like the one I just diagnosed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SB-Chevy-SB...EAAOSw44BYPNLT
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Lynn, thank you for some very good input. I would like to update my distributor, but do not want to waste money on some inferior product. I have tried to find a shop locally here , that would still have a distributor machine, but had no luck. I still may do the mallorey from one of our vendors, or try to find the parts to rebuild my delco.Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.
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Originally posted by 61Lark View PostLynn, the Maxx distributor that I received this week looks very different from the one you tested. It will be a while before I can install it in my car, but if it works as good as it looks I'll be ordering another.
Nick64 GT Hawk (K7)
1970 Avanti (R3)
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Very interesting Nick. That looks like the old Ford style of wheel and pick up, but with GM weights and springs, and GM rotor. So easy to dial in your mechanical advance with that set up.
Looks way better than the junk I bought.
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