i have a 63 stude trk with a 289 motor it has a 3speed of trans at present. what is available to put an automatic trans behind the 289?
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Define how you plan to use the truck. The Studebaker/Borg-Warner Powershift is the best value/performance automatic. If you're handy, know your way around a U-Pik, it's possible to swap in a GM TH700R4 and have both dig and cruise, albiet for more dollars.
jack vinesPackardV8
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Easiest conversion would be to install a complete Studebaker automatic with all the linkages and what-evers from a donor vehicle or from someone doing a conversion to an AOD. Don't forget that the rear end gears need changing too or you will have a stump puller with no top end. You will need to use a steering column made for an automatic or devise a floor shift also. Someone is wanting your Stick/OD, so just start asking around. Might find someone to swap with.sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
1950 Champion Convertible
1950 Champion 4Dr
1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
1957 Thunderbird
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You are not too far from me. I am in Central OK. I have a DG 200 coming out of a 53 Commander behind a 232. Trans works but leaks worse than bad. I will be pulling it, and you can have it for free. Even better, if your current three speed is servicable, and if you would consider a trade that included your flywheel, bell housing, clutch parts and tranny, I would come to you and deliver the auto.
At the very least you will need to have it re-sealed. I have not had it at highway speeds, so can't vouch for how well it performs. Just know it works find puttering around town from time to time. Just leaks like you would not believe. Personally, I would not trust it without having a qualified auto trans tech go through it. You may be braver than me.
PM me if interested. Won't be coming out til the spring.
Having said all of that..... if I were putting an auto trans in a 63 truck with a 289, I would spring for the Chevy adapter, and buy one of the MANY available 4l60E transmisisons available out of a 95 or later Chevy/GMC pick up or suburban. Good working transmissions can be had for less than $500 all day long. I paid $350 for a GM goodwrench reman trans that was only in the truck for 6 months when the truck was wrecked. You will have to purchase a stand alone controller ($600) and a tps set up ($70) and figure out how to run your speedo. Still cheaper than buying a built 700R4, which is a pain because if you don't get the TV cable adjusted just right, you will likely burn it up. Also, you have to mickey mouse a way to utilize the lock up torque converter, and all the ways I have see involve some weird compromise. On mine, I can program the converter to lock up at any speed I want. Just my two cents. Your mileage may vary. You will find lots of opinions, with most everyone justifiying why they chose the route they did.
Best of luck to you regardless of what you decide.
Lynn
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Originally posted by mbstude View PostBoth Fairborn Studebaker and Myers Studebaker make and sell adapter kits to installed a GM automatic.
Here's one I've been working on making today. Since the later GM transmissions were never used with front mount engines, and I've seen several broken bell housings/cases I'm adding the rear engine mount to the adapter, considering the Stude engine is 200lbs heavier than the Chevy engine. Hence the outrigger/ears; none of the commonly available adapters I've seen makes a provision for a rear engine mount.
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"Since the later GM transmissions were never used with front mount engines, and I've seen several broken bell housings/cases"...
I don't think that's entirely true. I have installed 200 4R transmissions behind NUMEROUS front mount V8's and never had a transmission mount...except a mount on the tail shaft mounting. As a matter of fact, GM NEVER used a transmission mount on ANY of their late model automatic transmissions, except on the tail shafts.
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I think what Rick is referring to by "front mount" is that the Chevys, after 1957 have the engine mounts mid engine instead of up at the very front of the motor, as in 55-57.
With the mounts mid engine, it doesn't put nearly as much stress on the engine / trans connection.
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Yes, agree, there are advantages to using the 4L60E, but lowest cost is not usually one of them.
Still cheaper than buying a built 700R4, which is a pain because if you don't get the TV cable adjusted just right, you will likely burn it up. Also, you have to mickey mouse a way to utilize the lock up torque converter, and all the ways I have see involve some weird compromise.
Just my two cents. Your mileage may vary. You will find lots of opinions, with most everyone justifiying why they chose the route they did.
Back to choices and reasons; I had a ride in a Stude pickup the owner had built up, a 289" with semi-dished pistons and everything else to R1 specs, a Powershift transmission and a 3.07 rear axle. The owner always starts in first gear and manually shifts to second and third. He doesn't consider it any problem at all and loves that it's all Stude. Performance was good and RPMs on the highway were not obtrusive.
Your final results will depend on your personal preferences and pocketbook, but there are myriad methods of getting to automatic.
jack vinesPackardV8
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All good points Jack. When I said "Still cheaper than buying a built 700R4..." I should have stated that FOR ME at that particular time, it was. I could not find a deal on a 700R4. Like you said, getting harder to find.
Of course, my experience shapes my opinion, and this one worked out very well for me. That is also why I noted that most opinions are, at least to some extent, a justification of why a particular route was taken.
One thing I forgot to mention was that this trans was going in a 68 El Camino modified to haul 8000 plus pounds, which I have done several times.
Would be nice to hear from the OP. Are we talking Transtar or Champ? Do yo know what rear gear you have right now? Do you want/need overdrive?
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Originally posted by Lynn View PostI think what Rick is referring to by "front mount" is that the Chevys, after 1957 have the engine mounts mid engine instead of up at the very front of the motor, as in 55-57.
With the mounts mid engine, it doesn't put nearly as much stress on the engine / trans connection.
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Originally posted by thunderations View PostYou will need to use a steering column made for an automatic or devise a floor shift also. .RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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I've done what Jack Vines refers to as the "Pik U" trans swap. In my case my car ('64) already had a McKinnon (Chevy engine) drivetrain swapped. Basically it is a time or money thing. I had more of the former than the latter. Anyway, it took looking under a LOT of cars over a number of trips to Pick Your Part 50% off sales, but I found a somewhat recently rebuilt 700R4 and paid all of $70 out the door including the convertor. I even had C-4 from my Turbo Pinto swap to send back as a core.
The same yards provided a trans cooler ($11), floor shift ($15), drive shaft that fit without cutting ($20). The internet is repleat with the TV cable configuration. With calipers and a protractor I adapted a GM throttle body arm to my Edelbrock carburetor. They also make a kit but at $125 it was not the CASO thing to do. Anyway, it all worked.
Frankly if one swaps the trans the vehicle is no longer original. So, it seems simpler to me to just swap to the Chevy engine too given the cost of the adapter. To each their own. I like the challange and I like to fabricate, adapt, tinker - and I'm frugal too. A 700R4 conversion for right about $125 is what made it work for me. It represented 10% of what I paid for the car. I couldn't see putting a $3,000+ trans swap into a $1,250 car.'64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.
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