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Thread: Window Run Channel

  1. #1
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    Window Run Channel

    Fellows,
    I am a new member here. I bought a 1961 Studebaker Hawk with 289 and 4 speed from one of your members in April 2016. After receiving the car i contracted with a body shop to repair the body and repaint. I received it back on Dec. 10, 2017. The car needed new window run channels as well as door, trunk, cowl seals, etc. The body shop replaced all the rubber seals but did not replace the window run channels but had already removed the old ones from both doors. I have scoured the net as well as this forum looking for info on how to best replace them. I did see the info posted by Ray-Lin Restoration and that does help. My question is where does the upper window run channel start ? Does it butt up to the wing vent frame or glass or does it start back farther. I was wondering if anyone here has a 61 Hawk that might be willing to take a couple of pics showing how this window run channel and wing vent come together.
    If anyone knows of pics showing how to install the window run channels etc., it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    Stuhawk

  2. #2
    President Member Commander Eddie's Avatar
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    Stuhawk,
    I do not have a Hawk but I have replaced these in a couple of vehicles. The U-Channel starts against the window vent frame and runs down the door to about 12" inches inside the door. Just make sure the window is riding against it when fully down so that it cannot slip out. It is a shame the body shop took the old ones out leaving you with no example to follow. You will probably need to take the window glass out to perform this installation. It will be easier that way. Also be careful with the bend as the U-Channel curves down. The chrome bead has a tendency to separate from the channel. Find a hard object with approximately the same radius curve to bend the channel around. Take it slow.
    Ed Sallia
    Dundee, OR

    Sol Lucet Omnibus

  3. #3
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    Commander Eddie,
    thanks for the advice. I will remove the window and use it to form the channel around. Atleast thats my plan.

    Stuhawk

  4. #4
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    Run Channel

    And to secure it I used colourless contact cement as the 3M yellow weatherstripping adhesive really makes a mess. There are raised areas where the run channel sits which will be your areas to put the cement, and approximate the same areas on the back of the run channel.
    Also the glass will have to come out.
    Regards,
    Mark

  5. #5
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    007,
    Thanks for the info and reply. Would 3M Window-Weld part # 08609 work ? I think i used this on an old coupe one time and it worked good.

  6. #6
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    Stuhawk, look at the end of the new channel. if the stainless bead has been pinched like with Dykes it will pull loose in the bend. it must be free to slide on the "u" channel when bending. Luck Doofus

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by doofus View Post
    Stuhawk, look at the end of the new channel. if the stainless bead has been pinched like with Dykes it will pull loose in the bend. it must be free to slide on the "u" channel when bending. Luck Doofus
    What he said.
    KURTRUK
    (read it backwards)




    Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

  8. #8
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    doofus,
    thank you very much for that tip ! That's something that I have never read but would make all the difference in success or failure. It sure makes sense to me.

  9. #9
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    Hi I cannot answer your question about 3M Window-Weld part # 08609
    Regards,
    Mark

  10. #10
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    Hey Stuhawk,I have a '61 Hawk also and in the process of doing the same thing. I was looking for any info beyond the pics in manual like proper sequence. The pinched bead problem makes sense and was thinking of scribing radius onto 1/4" plywood and using that as tool to bend,we'll see. I understood from SI that only 2 clips hold channel, top and bottom and I guess along with the glue.Also at this time would be a good idea to remove regulator and clean and lube. Good luck Springs only weeks away Thanks Mike

  11. #11
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    Mike,
    yes the 2 clips and the glue is what holds the window run channel in place. Why not remove the window and use it as your template to form the window run channel as it would be the exact size and shape. You need to drop the window down below the door frame or remove it in order to remove and re-place the cat whiskers. It would also be a perfect time to remove the regulator and clean and lube it while you have the door tore apart. Also if you need to replace the wing vent rubber weatherstrip now would be a good time to also replace them. I would still like to see a pic of how the window run channel butts up to the wing vent frame on top. I would appreciate it if you could take a pic of yours and post it. Warm weather , patience and the right parts, tools and the know how will hopefully geter done. Good luck to you too.

  12. #12
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    stude vent1.jpgstude vent 2.jpgstude vent 3.jpgstude vent 4.jpgWho knows if I'm right. The other thing is if I remember right the bottom run goes in easier if you just put the clips in the door and then bend the clip over the felt run with a flat tool (screwdriver). I completely destroyed the first big bending one I did by assuming it would bend....it doesn't it kinks. The art of bending the channel is a slow motion dance. S-L-O-W play it a little. You'll probably lose one or two...so you aren't alone. It kind of bends way less than you think it like bends out there somewhere and slowly conforms to your pressure....does that make any sense or does it sound like I just smoked something...which i did not...but I remember doing it (12 years ago) and it's slowly coming back to me. In other words the bending process begins farther than you think otherwise you kink it. That is the key.
    Last edited by jg61hawk; 02-11-2018 at 06:33 PM.

  13. #13
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    Also, replace the short run on the front of the window below where the window and vent window meet. I used the fuzzy part of heavy duty velcro and glued it into the channel which is removable, also used it on the lip on the front edge of the window. Just did one side before it got cold, the other is waiting for me!- Jim

  14. #14
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    If you have any non hardtop ("C" body) Hawk the clip used in the corner of the door has a different part number.
    The tail is shorter so the channel can pull all the way up.
    I did not know that until an experience body man at the dealer pointed that out.(1968)
    The channel on my car never looked right until I used the correct clip.
    You can use the longer clip but you have shorten the tab.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jg61hawk View Post
    stude vent1.jpgstude vent 2.jpgstude vent 3.jpgstude vent 4.jpgWho knows if I'm right. The other thing is if I remember right the bottom run goes in easier if you just put the clips in the door and then bend the clip over the felt run with a flat tool (screwdriver). I completely destroyed the first big bending one I did by assuming it would bend....it doesn't it kinks. The art of bending the channel is a slow motion dance. S-L-O-W play it a little. You'll probably lose one or two...so you aren't alone. It kind of bends way less than you think it like bends out there somewhere and slowly conforms to your pressure....does that make any sense or does it sound like I just smoked something...which i did not...but I remember doing it (12 years ago) and it's slowly coming back to me. In other words the bending process begins farther than you think otherwise you kink it. That is the key.
    Thanks for the pics. Pic #3 is the area i'm concerned about and in your pic it shows the window run channel beads going under the rubber weather seal. If i am looking at it right it also appears that the wing vent protrudes out past the end of the frame. This area is in question as i have nothing to compare with.

    Stuhawk

  16. #16
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    Hey stuhawk,How's the window channel job going ,I'm still figuring it all out. Here's another question the L-shaped fuzzy strip that mounts to the front edge of window glass which the vent window closes on. It looks like it's riveted to metal frame and the part I ordered from SI comes with these little tophat looking rivets.How do you fasten these? Somehow you have to dimple them to expand to hold them.This part clips together at top to hold the interior trim strip to the glass panel. Well someone out there must know what I'm talking about,any advise is appreciated.Anyway I think the window channel just ends as close to vent window without restricting movement. Thanks, Jerseyhawk

  17. #17
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    JerseyHawk,
    I haven't started on my window run channel yet, waiting for the weather to get warmer.
    As far as the felt strip on the front edge of the window I believe the factory ones were riveted. Some guys are buying small velcro strip and gluing them in place after cleaning old strip and any rust, etc. Wish I had a good answer for you and I am going to have to fix the same thing on my car. I think it would be great if you could fix them like factory but you might open up the proverbial "Can Of Worms ".

    Stuhawk

  18. #18
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    I need to replace the front window to vent window strips on my 50 Champion also. I bought the strips and rivets from SI, but haven't looked into what's involved yet.

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