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Thread: Door Window Came Off Track (?)

  1. #1
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    Door Window Came Off Track (?)

    So my 60 Lark's passenger window seems to disconnect from the piece that raises and lowers it. If I start to crank it down, it goes about halfway, then the window stays put, and the mechanism keeps going. On the way back up, it catches the window and cranks it closed. Just started today... When I bought the car, I took the door panel off and greased that whole mechanism, and it works smoothly otherwise. Is the glass just held in with tension? Glue? Hope?

    Where should I start to correct this?

  2. #2
    President Member thunderations's Avatar
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    The glass has a rubberized cloth material that originally made a friction fit between the channel and glass. Over the years it has failed. Most glass companies now use a silicon sealer product instead. If you remove that door panel again and can see if the channel will slip back over the glass, you can do the same thing. If the cloth material is still intact, you can leave it there and add the silicone. If it's gone or not worth saving, you might check with a glass company and see if they have a replacement or go with just the silicone, but make sure you crank the window up and it's all seated correctly after using the sealer. Then let it dry for at least a day (or whatever the product advises) in the up position before using it.
    1966 Daytona (The First One)
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    OK, you have two problems. Number one, the fuzz strip (window channel) is deteriorated, and has probably balled up in the channel, blocking the free movement downward of the glass. Number two, the channel on the bottom of the glass has broken free, as described above. You should still be able to get the setting tape at an auto glass shop; it looks like rubbery tar paper, and is quite cheap. But it takes a lot of force to set the glass in the strip. Urethane windshield cement sounds like a better option.

    But you will surely need new fuzz strips. I'm sure Chuck Collins has it, right in PHX.
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

  4. #4
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    Twice I have had the plastic rollers between the window crank mechanism and the channel on the bottom of the glass separate. The glass becomes "disconnected' from the crank mechanism. Required new plastic rollers and keepers.
    Last edited by doug; 01-10-2018 at 07:14 PM.

  5. #5
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    A good glass man from Canada told me 10 years ago to not use silicone to seal windshields and glass to metal, as the silicone promotes rust. He said to use the regular windshield setting material, which I think is butyl rubber, or something like that. His advice sure rang a bell when I noticed all the rust holes by windshields in the junk yard, where someone use silicone to seal the lower corners.

  6. #6
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    I have some 3/32" glass setting tape if you choose to go that way.

  7. #7
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    Do you have pictures? It sounds like your talking about the clips and not the channel.DSC07454.jpg

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by az64stude View Post
    Do you have pictures? It sounds like your talking about the clips and not the channel.DSC07454.jpg
    I haven't taken the door apart yet, so no pictures. If I crank the window mechanism all the way down, about halfway, the glass feels like it pops out of a slot. Then I can slide the glass up and down by hand. If I leave the glass part way down and crank the mechanism back up, it feels like the glass is popped back into a slot on the way up. When the glass is free of the mechanism, the mechanism feels like it functions normally.

    For what it's worth, one of the first things I did when I bought the car was lubricate all the door parts, blow compressed air down the window channels, and apply powdered graphite. The windows had been working great ever since.

    The shop manual doesn't seem to mention clips or rollers or keepers, so I'm a little unclear how I'd go about replacing those things if that's the problem. Anyone have suggestions? I'm sure it'll require removing the window mechanism altogether.

  9. #9
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    Most of us have learned that the shop manuals, as good as they may be, are severely lacking in really good illustrations. The correct parts book will have an illustration of your door mechanism that shows every single little part and how they go together. It's a worthwhile investment.

  10. #10
    Silver Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Gee whiz...it's a 58 year old car. So far, there has been some fairly good suggestions, but the problem is that there has not been enough initial information. The door panel should be removed, and a good shop light to illuminate through the door "access" holes while operating the mechanism to observe exactly where the window regulator is failing. Is the glass separating from the bottom channel, and left hung up in the guide channels? Or, is the mechanism separating from the bottom channel leaving the glass properly embedded as installed? Without the correct information, the recommended "fix" is pure speculation.

    When lubricating, was there any spray lubricant used that could have found its way to the glass setting material? For spray lubricants, the carrier solvent could destroy the friction grasp.

    Another "speculation," have you checked the thickness of the glass compared to other windows? If a thinner glass was used, that could contribute to failure of the "friction fit."

    Remove the door panel, place the handle back on and crank the mechanism down & report back where & how it is failing. You might not have to remove the mechanism, but you will have to do this much regardless. Good luck with it.
    John Clary
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  11. #11
    President Member BRUCESTUDE's Avatar
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    I went through this on my '60 Lark, soon after I bought it and got it running a couple years ago. Last winter I took the door (passenger front) apart and after taking the channel and glass out, I found that the channel was rusted enough so it wouldn't hold glass even with new setting tape (the driver's side was this way too). All the channels I inquired about were rusty too, so... I took channels from a '52 parts car I have (channels weren't rusty at all?!), cut them to size, cut and rewelded the "ears" (that go in the door channels), painted and reassembled.
    A lot of work, but I saw no other way as there is a lot of torque on these channels so they need to be solid. The rear door window channels were fine but needed wire brushing, painting and new glass set tape.
    I also ended up taking regulators and door channel etc. out and replacing the "fuzzy" channel, lubing the regulator and assorted parts.

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