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Thread: First vintage truck... a Studebaker

  1. #41
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    All good input. My 53' 2R is currently in a great place except some spaghetti wiring up front and a presently replaced bad rim. My advise from the start: unless the wiring has been redone, look at it. Cloth covered old wires that may even be grounding out along their routes causing all kinds of questionable electrical questions... generator, regulator, lights, etc..... 2) Radial tires, although an easy to obtain panacea for older vehicles, bring with them some harsh realities: the steering components, suspension and wheel rims were not designed for radial geometrics. Ask anyone about worn steering gears, cracked lug holes, and the like on their old trucks. If the truck were in NH, I'd offer to buy the bias ply tires off you if in good shape. Heck, its likely (as was the case) that you've got plenty of stacked leaf springs out front and back so be careful about feminizing (admitted non-PC commentary) your truck without a neverending chase....

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackb View Post
    All good input. My 53' 2R is currently in a great place except some spaghetti wiring up front and a presently replaced bad rim. My advise from the start: unless the wiring has been redone, look at it. Cloth covered old wires that may even be grounding out along their routes causing all kinds of questionable electrical questions... generator, regulator, lights, etc..... 2) Radial tires, although an easy to obtain panacea for older vehicles, bring with them some harsh realities: the steering components, suspension and wheel rims were not designed for radial geometrics. Ask anyone about worn steering gears, cracked lug holes, and the like on their old trucks. If the truck were in NH, I'd offer to buy the bias ply tires off you if in good shape. Heck, its likely (as was the case) that you've got plenty of stacked leaf springs out front and back so be careful about feminizing (admitted non-PC commentary) your truck without a neverending chase....

    JackB and friends,

    So you recommend against getting radials and keeping the bias ply 6.50 x 16 LT's on my truck?

  3. #43
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    On the radials..... if I knew I was spending most of my time on fairly straight roads, under 60 mph, and only parking on soft grass vs. aggregate or cement, and removing some of my leaves....I'd likely look for modified (cut for fit to Stude) Chevy rims with the wider radials and away I would go. If in mixed driving, on hard surfaces, I prefer bias plys. Its a 50's truck. Made to work and set up so. If you want the luxury of a fun all around driver..... send the chassis to China and with few modifications drop it on a Dodge Durango chassis w/ a bowtie 350, and matching tranny & R/A......

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkibler View Post
    JackB and friends,

    So you recommend against getting radials and keeping the bias ply 6.50 x 16 LT's on my truck?
    As several have said, it depends on what kind of driving you are going to do. If you still have the OEM wheels, they were not designed for radial tires, and depending how you drive could eventually fail. Bias-ply tires are still available, but cost more these days.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkibler View Post
    Eric,

    Merry Christmas. Always a great day to talk about old trucks.

    Thanks for photos of your beautiful truck. It's the same truck and the same color as mine and it's in the condition where I want mine to be. Does it have a (original) rear bumper? I'd love to see more photos and I sure would like to get together sometime. What suggestions can you offer me as I begin to work on her? What should I know about the 2R5 model?

    Mark
    Mark , if you would like to more pictures of my truck, just let me know what you are looking for, and I will see if I have it.

    Regarding a few of your other questions:

    -If you are looking for background on your truck, look for the June, 1985 issue of Turning Wheels. It contains a nice article on the 2R series trucks by Fred Fox. Another write-up to look for would be the June, 2002 edition of Collectible Automobile, Magazine, which as a informative article by Richard Quinn. My truck is one of the trucks appearing in the article.

    -Rear bumpers were available for thse trucks, but rare. I have one stashed up on my attic - installing it remains on my to-do list.

    -As Skip stated, inside rearview mirrors were also available - I found one for my truck used. Studebaker had a number of accessories for these trucks, many of which appear in the above mentioned Turning Wheels article by Fred Fox. You might also want to purchase a copy of the truck accessories, brochure.

    These are great trucks, but you have to understand their limitations. Remember, your truck only has around 75 horsepower, a brake system designed in the 1940s, a six-volt electrical system, etc. With a 4:88 rear gear and it's light weight, it feels rather lively around town, and with overdrive, will cruise comfortably at 50-55. I have driven my truck at a higher rate of speed, but at around 60, the truck starts to let you know it is not happy about it!
    Eric DeRosa

    \'49 2R-5 (original Survivor)
    \'63 R2 Lark (the moneypit-mobile)

  6. #46
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    2R5

    .
    Eric,

    I would sure enjoy seeing more pictures of your truck (and I'll take a few more of mine to post too.) Also, I'll track down those articles you mentioned. Looking forward to seeing your truck photos~

    Mark

  7. #47
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    [QUOTE=mkibler;1088733].
    Eric,

    I would sure enjoy seeing more pictures of your truck (and I'll take a few more of mine to post too.) Also, I'll track down those articles you mentioned. Looking forward to seeing your truck photos~

    Here are a few additional photos for you to take a look at. If you are looking for something in particular, just let me know.
    027.jpg012.jpg019.jpgDSCN0844.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Eric DeRosa

    \'49 2R-5 (original Survivor)
    \'63 R2 Lark (the moneypit-mobile)

  8. #48
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    2R2

    [QUOTE=2R2;1088807][QUOTE=mkibler;1088733].
    Eric,

    What a fine looking 2R5-! Boy, I hope turns out as nice as yours. It’s exactly the look I’m hoping for with mine: original but not overstated.
    How long did it take for you to get it looking like that? What was the condition when you got it originally? I’d love to see it in person some time.

    Mark

  9. #49
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    [QUOTE=mkibler;1088847][QUOTE=2R2;1088807]
    Quote Originally Posted by mkibler View Post
    .
    Eric,

    What a fine looking 2R5-! Boy, I hope turns out as nice as yours. It’s exactly the look I’m hoping for with mine: original but not overstated.
    How long did it take for you to get it looking like that? What was the condition when you got it originally? I’d love to see it in person some time.

    Mark
    Mark,
    My truck has not been restored, it is original 49,000 mile truck. It was sold new by Walker Auto Sales in Ft. Dodge Iowa, to a farmer who lived in Lohrville, Iowa. When the original owner passed away in the '70s, the truck was pushed into a chicken coop. It bounced around for a couple of years before I purchased it, but it was not roadworthy - it was briefly used as a billboard for a local business I believe. I I bought in in 1996. I had to do quite a bit of mechanical work to get it roadworthy, but for the most part, it is as it rolled out of the factory - it still has about 70% of its original paint.
    I should note that as my truck is an early 2R it is going to have some differences compared to yours. For example, the gauge cluster is slightly different, rear axle, lever shocks, etc.
    trk 49 miles 028.jpg
    Eric DeRosa

    \'49 2R-5 (original Survivor)
    \'63 R2 Lark (the moneypit-mobile)

  10. #50
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    trk 49 miles 028.jpg

    Gentlemen,

    So the Overdrive knob is the black knob (marked OD or OO?) on the left side of the console panel just below the gas gauge? If so, then my truck has Overdrive (or at least an Overdrive knob~)

  11. #51
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    .
    Also, the serial number plate on my truck says:

    R5-8345
    2R5-12

    What do you folks interpret these number to mean?

    Also, is there an affordable place to order a 6 volt truck battery and have it shipped to my home?

    Thank you,

    Mark

    - - - Updated - - -

    Correction:

    R5-83345

  12. #52
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    Champion 6 engine, 112 inches wheelbase (short bed)

  13. #53
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    Serial number R5-83345 is a 1952 model. First 1952 2R5 serial number was R5-78579. First 1953 serial number was R5-96238. As Jackb said, the other number is the model number: 2R5 with 112" wheelbase.

    Any auto parts store can order you a 6v battery. It's type 1. And Tractor Supply Stores often have them in stock.

  14. #54
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    1951 vs 1952

    [QUOTE=Skip Lackie;1089299]Serial number R5-83345 is a 1952 model. First 1952 2R5 serial number was R5-78579. First 1953 serial number was R5-96238. As Jackb said, the other number is the model number: 2R5 with 112" wheelbase.

    Thanks Skip,

    So based on the serial number, my 1951 2R5 is really a 1952 then?

  15. #55
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    I can't add a lot of technical detail to what's been offered - some of the forum's most reliable sages on this one. I'll just say that in my short ownership of Sorley ('50 2R5), he's been a great little worker on the farm. However, I have found the carb to be extremely temperamental - I tinkered a bit to correct a mild flooding tendency and haven't quite got it sorted out yet. And the 6-volt electrics (my first) just seem inherently weak, though that's probably some age and misuse showing. My worklist on Sorley includes a potential 12v conversion, seatbelts (I don't know that I saw this basic add-on mentioned above), and an interior lining kit, as mine is stripped away. Otherwise, I've got a similar survivor, shown below delivering the annual Christmas Tree. Great truck, and anyone in the neighborhood that already knows "trucks" takes a second look - this one's a Studebaker Truck.

    IMG_4228.jpg

  16. #56
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    Thanks Skip,

    So based on the serial number, my 1951 2R5 is really a 1952 then?
    In your first post you said it was a 1953 model. Registering a truck as a later-year model would have been more common, as it might have made the vehicle slightly more desirable. The 2R series changed only slightly over its five-year run, so almost no one would have known the difference. And in many rural areas, a local county official would have been in charge of vehicle registration, and may not have had access to (or interest in) the official model-year serial number info provided by Studebaker.

    In an earlier post, you inquired about a horn. I dug a surplus 2R truck horn out of my stash, but have not tested it. If you are still looking for the correct single horn, I will see if it works.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavanbound View Post
    I can't add a lot of technical detail to what's been offered - some of the forum's most reliable sages on this one. I'll just say that in my short ownership of Sorley ('50 2R5), he's been a great little worker on the farm. However, I have found the carb to be extremely temperamental - I tinkered a bit to correct a mild flooding tendency and haven't quite got it sorted out yet. And the 6-volt electrics (my first) just seem inherently weak, though that's probably some age and misuse showing. My worklist on Sorley includes a potential 12v conversion, seatbelts (I don't know that I saw this basic add-on mentioned above), and an interior lining kit, as mine is stripped away. Otherwise, I've got a similar survivor, shown below delivering the annual Christmas Tree. Great truck, and anyone in the neighborhood that already knows "trucks" takes a second look - this one's a Studebaker Truck.

    IMG_4228.jpg
    I will not try to talk you out of converting to 12 volts, but will suggest that before you give up on your 6v system, you replace your battery cables with quality, heavier units. Many 6v systems provide poor performance because they are trying to push their electrons through cheap, half-sized cables that were designed for 12v systems. A welding shop or a battery store can probably make up a set of 00 cables that might make a big difference.

    Seat belts were not available on Stude trucks until the 1956 models, but were then listed as fitting earlier models. I recently installed belts in my 3R6, and had no problems, once I made sure I wasn't gonna drill though the top of the fuel tank. Any universal belt designed for a flat floor will do fine.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    In your first post you said it was a 1953 model. Registering a truck as a later-year model would have been more common, as it might have made the vehicle slightly more desirable. The 2R series changed only slightly over its five-year run, so almost no one would have known the difference. And in many rural areas, a local county official would have been in charge of vehicle registration, and may not have had access to (or interest in) the official model-year serial number info provided by Studebaker.

    In an earlier post, you inquired about a horn. I dug a surplus 2R truck horn out of my stash, but have not tested it. If you are still looking for the correct single horn, I will see if it works.
    Also, some places registered/titled vehicles based on the calendar year that they were first sold. This could be one model year earlier or any number of model years later.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  19. #59
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    Honk Honk

    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post

    In an earlier post, you inquired about a horn. I dug a surplus 2R truck horn out of my stash, but have not tested it. If you are still looking for the correct single horn, I will see if it works.
    Skip,

    Yes, originally I thought it was a 1953. That was until I got the title, which says it's a 1951. But according to the serial number it looks to be a 1952. We'll split the difference and call it a 1952.

    That would be great if I could try your horn out. Can I simply test it by attaching the horn wires to the battery? Positive is ground, negative is hot on this 6 volts system.

    Thanks!

    Mark

  20. #60
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    Hi Mark- I can only agree with the good advice you have had up until now, but having bought a neglected Hawk this year, with totally unresponsive brakes, i can certainly echo the recommendations to rebuild the 'stoppers' first. On the brakes I took on a minimalist approach and rapidly ended up coming to the realisation that I had just wasted my time. I have decided that my Hawk must remain a 'driver' (I have a frame off rebuild nut and bolt restoration of a '61 Hawk going on and I will be an old man when it gets done!) but everything I touch gets 'restored' and rattlecan painted along the way. You can use this experience to begin gaining familiarity with your vehicle. Clean-up and make good as you go. I suggest going into the brake system along one side first- front and rear. Take heaps of digital photos (start a personal blog!). Remove your brake lines and get new ones made so you can re-install these. Do replace the rubber flexible lines (I found all mine to be blocked as well as perished). Remove and recoe or replace the master cylinder along with the wheel cyls- I doubt that any of these will be all that good. If you can justify buying a grinder with a rotary wire wheel for cleaning rusty parts, get one- I find this my most useful acquisition, hands down. This job alone will take some time but will be well worth it, especially if you can manage it without farming jobs out to professionals. Enjoy!
    I have attached a few photos to help justify my passion on the subject.
    Steve

    39. 4aug17 brake cyl fozen on lowermost end.jpg 40. 4aug17 brake pistons heavily corroded.jpg 12 5jul17 Blocked rear brake line flexible connector 1 showing breakdown of outer sheath.jpg 36. fri 4aug17 RH front brake to come apart before reinstalling.jpg15c. friday 14July17 rear brakes cleanup and reinstallation2.jpg

  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkibler View Post
    Skip,



    That would be great if I could try your horn out. Can I simply test it by attaching the horn wires to the battery? Positive is ground, negative is hot on this 6 volts system.

    Thanks!

    Mark
    PM received and sent.

  22. #62
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    You have a wonderful truck to work on, congratulations. I want to stress my agreement to replace the entire brake system. This is a single type system so if any part fails, you will have absolutely no brakes. One other note is that if you go with radial tires, you should also put on modern wheels. The Studebaker rims were not designed for the harder radials and there are reports of wheels cracking when radials are used Have fun!

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by truckguy View Post
    ... I want to stress my agreement to replace the entire brake system.
    Truck Guy,

    Thanks to you and the guys for the advice about making sure the brakes are functional. As logical as that seems, I doubt I would have thought about it in the excitement of getting my 'new' old truck. Thankfully the older guy I got it from did the brakes and rebuilt the carburetor. But I will have the brakes double checked anyway.

    Also, while the truck runs OK the carb does need some adjustment to smooth it out and to idle better. That's also on the to-do list

    Happy New Year all

  24. #64
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    If your truck, like mine, has the automatic adjusters on all 4 wheels, you must have all adjusting parts installed for any real braking performance. My truck had oversized shoes and I made larger washers to achieve adjustment = it never worked. I finally got all the parts, installed them (had to drill out shoes for wear tab)... and now finally have good brakes.

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    I will not try to talk you out of converting to 12 volts, but will suggest that before you give up on your 6v system, you replace your battery cables with quality, heavier units. Many 6v systems provide poor performance because they are trying to push their electrons through cheap, half-sized cables that were designed for 12v systems. A welding shop or a battery store can probably make up a set of 00 cables that might make a big difference.

    Seat belts were not available on Stude trucks until the 1956 models, but were then listed as fitting earlier models. I recently installed belts in my 3R6, and had no problems, once I made sure I wasn't gonna drill though the top of the fuel tank. Any universal belt designed for a flat floor will do fine.
    I appreciate that - I've not read up yet on the conversion, and I'll avoid it if I can. I'll try to figure out if I've got a cable issue. I suppose I should say too that my cranking/starting issues really have only emerged since the temp dropped below 20 degrees here - otherwise, it's a great Winter chore truck. Thanks again.

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by cavanbound View Post
    I appreciate that - I've not read up yet on the conversion, and I'll avoid it if I can. I'll try to figure out if I've got a cable issue. I suppose I should say too that my cranking/starting issues really have only emerged since the temp dropped below 20 degrees here - otherwise, it's a great Winter chore truck. Thanks again.
    These Minnesota winters are tough on equipment. Even my 1999 Olds cranked pretty slow this past week, then yesterday the heater fan quit. It's too cold now to diagnose the problem and repair it, so I'm stuck in the house for a bit. Good thing I'm retired. I'll clean up my Commander gauges and see if I can make them light up better.

  27. #67
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    If you do decide to go with an Overdrive, first find a donor truck with the Overdrive that you need. Then Rob the Overdrive, Driveshaft, relay, throttle linkage (from foot to engine), kickdown (part of throttle linkage), and cable. However the thing that really matters is the OD tranny and the Driveshaft. the rest you can fudge, but being a newbie, I wouldn't.

    Myself, I have all of the components installed in mine, however I am running a single wire and a switch to the solenoid, as it's too cold and I'm too lazy to properly fix the thing.

    I did, several years ago, disassemble and clean the entire tranny and overdrive. I don't recommend this, as it was 2 weeks and tied up my shop. You have to be incredibly meticulous to do it, and I no longer am.

  28. #68
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    Check the inside of the door bottoms, inside the rear of the front fenders, back fenders and inside the cab corners for rust. Seek, Strike, Destroy.

  29. #69
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    Truck photos

    Thanks for the advice about seeking and destroying rust. Your advice is well taken.

    My apologies for not posting these photos of my new used truck sooner but I had major surgery on my shoulder just before Christmas and it's hard-- and painful-- typing. So here are the photos and I welcome any comments about my truck, its condition, any observations you make, and further advice on how to proceed.

    How much should I insure my truck for and what is a fair retail price for it as it sits?

    Thanks to one of the guys for mailing me a horn, too~! I very much appreciate it and now I have to get it working and installed.

    Mark in Ohio
    Attached Images Attached Images

  30. #70
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    For your value.... the insurance folks will be all over the field with amounts. If your truck was totaled, as is, I doubt you could get $2K for it. I could be wrong, but it is unrestored and not especially valued and appraised by a legitimate broker (Hagerty and others) with premiums to match. You could place a personal value and pay premiums on that amount, but that isn't what you'd get at the time of settlement.....

  31. #71
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    This truck already has an overdrive. It's got the knob and the relay.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
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    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

  32. #72
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    Where's the relay?

    Quote Originally Posted by RadioRoy View Post
    This truck already has an overdrive. It's got the knob and the relay.
    .
    RadioRoy:

    Where do you see the overdrive relay? (I didn't know that there was such a thing.)

    Thanks,

    Mark

  33. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkibler View Post
    .
    RadioRoy:

    Where do you see the overdrive relay? (I didn't know that there was such a thing.)

    Thanks,

    Mark
    It's on the firewall next to the overdrive kickdown switch. The kickdown switch is on the accelerator linkage.

    Have you purchased the parts catalog yet?

    The shop manual has a great wiring diagram of the overdrive.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

  34. #74
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    I think you have a great survivor pickup, and it's a real bonus to already have overdrive. Do you think you could replace it for $6000 if it's totaled?
    That's what I would insure it for, and be careful to not get in an accident, because I doubt you'd find another that nice for $6000.
    I underinsured my 50 Champion for $6000, and I know I could never replace it for that. I'd be lucky to get just the chrome and upholstery for that.

  35. #75
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    #1. You're starting with much better than I did. MUCH MUCH BETTER>
    #2. Talk to someone like Haggerty on the insurance. I believe it's agreed Value that you're looking for.
    #3. A rewire is in order. You might get by with taking several rolls of tape, cutting the old cloth covering off carefully and recovering it, if there are no bare spots.
    #4. Rust; Seek, Strike, Destroy. POR-15 is your friend. places to seriously check are inside the doors, cab corners, inside fenders.
    #5. Carefully Remove the rubber floor mat and clean up and paint the floor pans before reinstalling. I'm not sure, but Floor mats haven't been made in a while, so you may not find a new one.
    #6. Change every fluid possible.
    #7. Rebuild your brakes from front to rear. All of it. Replace every hose, line, MC, Wheel Cyl, etc, then go with DOT5 silicone fluid. (Do not remove the rear hubs without the Special Puller.)
    #8. Left side lugs are LEFT HAND! Wish I had known that when I got mine.
    #9. Looks like you have an overdrive already, take a picture of your transmission and post it, I'd bet my paycheck you already are good to go there. Get the book tho.

  36. #76
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    Wire gauge ?

    [QUOTE=Mrs K Corbin;1090812]#1. You're starting with much better than I did. MUCH MUCH BETTER/QUOTE]

    Mrs. K Corbin,

    Thanks for your helpful hints re: insurance and what to do as I start to restore my truck. It's nice to know that I have a good truck to start with. I do plan to change all the fluids as soon as the weather warms up a bit, probably later this week.

    To All you mechanics-

    I have a question about wire gauge. Skip sent me a nice horn (thanks, Skip~!) and I'd like to wire it up and try it out. Do you typically use a different gauge wire for a 6 volt as compared to a 12 volt system? Specifically, what gauge wire should I use? Thanks for your input.

    I called the Studebaker parts place this morning for some various things and I learned they are located in Greenfield, Indiana. That's only a few miles from where I have my hunting dog with a trainer and so I plan to stop by Studebaker when I go to work with my dog next week. What a great combination: an old truck and a loyal hunting dog. Now all I need is a country song...

    Mark
    Attached Images Attached Images

  37. #77
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    The shop manual shows that the horn uses 12 gauge wire. The hot wire to the horn should be included in the harness that contains the head and parking light wires and terminates at the three-contact binding post on the engine side of the LF side of the radiator mounting. If the horn is missing, then it should be hanging loose. The ground wire comes out of the bottom of the steering column. See my post #22 for where the horn mounts. I don't know which wire goes to which contact on the horn (my truck has dual horns, which are wired differently) -- maybe someone with a 2R truck with a single horn can answer that question.

  38. #78
    Commander Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    51

    Horn... no honk

    .
    The horn that Skip sent me came yesterday and I was eager to try it out. I disassembled it so I could repaint it, taking the horn mechanism out to do so (see photo.) I hardwired the horn, touched the wires to the battery both before and after I took the mechanism out, but there is no sound whatsoever coming out. Not a honk, not a buzz, not even a little vibration. All the metal surface were cleaned so there is good contact. But there is still no sign of life.

    I tried adjusting the 'horn adjustment nuts' on the inside of the horn per: the Studebaker Shop Manual but that does nothing. I'm open to ideas and suggestions guys. Thanks for your input (and thanks for the horn, Skip~! A letter is on its way to your.)

    Mark in Ohio
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  39. #79
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis
    Posts
    4,145
    Do you get any spark at all when the wires are touched to the contacts?
    If not, then I'd start by cleaning the contacts by drawing some fine crocus cloth through them, or if there is room stroke them with a thin fingernail or points file.
    That oval cardboard looks like it contains a capacitor to reduce the arcing of the contacts. If it goes bad, then the contacts can burn quickly.

  40. #80
    Commander Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    51
    .
    TWC Champ,

    Thanks for your help. It gives no spark whatsoever. Where exactly are the contacts on the horn? I'm guessing that the contacts are the rectangular metal bar that goes up and down when I adjust the horn adjustment nuts (see photos). There seems to be a gap at both ends that increases and decreases when I tighten the nuts and it looks like some sort of an electromagnetic gizmo sits underneath it to pull the metal bar up and down. am I close?

    I'll clean the gap between these two pieces and see what happens.

    Thanks again~

    Mark
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    Last edited by mkibler; 01-09-2018 at 11:41 AM. Reason: added info

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