First vintage truck... a Studebaker

[mkibler]

2R5

.
Eric,

I would sure enjoy seeing more pictures of your truck (and I'll take a few more of mine to post too.) Also, I'll track down those articles you mentioned. Looking forward to seeing your truck photos~

Mark

[2R2]

[QUOTE=mkibler;1088733].
Eric,

I would sure enjoy seeing more pictures of your truck (and I'll take a few more of mine to post too.) Also, I'll track down those articles you mentioned. Looking forward to seeing your truck photos~

Here are a few additional photos for you to take a look at. If you are looking for something in particular, just let me know.

[mkibler]

2R2

[QUOTE=2R2;1088807][QUOTE=mkibler;1088733].
Eric,

What a fine looking 2R5-! Boy, I hope turns out as nice as yours. It’s exactly the look I’m hoping for with mine: original but not overstated.
How long did it take for you to get it looking like that? What was the condition when you got it originally? I’d love to see it in person some time.

Mark

[2R2]

[QUOTE=mkibler;1088847][QUOTE=2R2;1088807]

.
Eric,

What a fine looking 2R5-! Boy, I hope turns out as nice as yours. It’s exactly the look I’m hoping for with mine: original but not overstated.
How long did it take for you to get it looking like that? What was the condition when you got it originally? I’d love to see it in person some time.

Mark

Mark,
My truck has not been restored, it is original 49,000 mile truck. It was sold new by Walker Auto Sales in Ft. Dodge Iowa, to a farmer who lived in Lohrville, Iowa. When the original owner passed away in the '70s, the truck was pushed into a chicken coop. It bounced around for a couple of years before I purchased it, but it was not roadworthy - it was briefly used as a billboard for a local business I believe. I I bought in in 1996. I had to do quite a bit of mechanical work to get it roadworthy, but for the most part, it is as it rolled out of the factory - it still has about 70% of its original paint.
I should note that as my truck is an early 2R it is going to have some differences compared to yours. For example, the gauge cluster is slightly different, rear axle, lever shocks, etc.

[mkibler]

Gentlemen,

So the Overdrive knob is the black knob (marked OD or OO?) on the left side of the console panel just below the gas gauge? If so, then my truck has Overdrive (or at least an Overdrive knob~)

[mkibler]

.
Also, the serial number plate on my truck says:

R5-8345
2R5-12

What do you folks interpret these number to mean?

Also, is there an affordable place to order a 6 volt truck battery and have it shipped to my home?

Thank you,

Mark

- - - Updated - - -

Correction:

R5-83345

[jackb]

Champion 6 engine, 112 inches wheelbase (short bed)

[Skip Lackie]

Serial number R5-83345 is a 1952 model. First 1952 2R5 serial number was R5-78579. First 1953 serial number was R5-96238. As Jackb said, the other number is the model number: 2R5 with 112" wheelbase.

Any auto parts store can order you a 6v battery. It's type 1. And Tractor Supply Stores often have them in stock.

[mkibler]

1951 vs 1952

[QUOTE=Skip Lackie;1089299]Serial number R5-83345 is a 1952 model. First 1952 2R5 serial number was R5-78579. First 1953 serial number was R5-96238. As Jackb said, the other number is the model number: 2R5 with 112" wheelbase.

Thanks Skip,

So based on the serial number, my 1951 2R5 is really a 1952 then?

[cavanbound]

I can't add a lot of technical detail to what's been offered - some of the forum's most reliable sages on this one. I'll just say that in my short ownership of Sorley ('50 2R5), he's been a great little worker on the farm. However, I have found the carb to be extremely temperamental - I tinkered a bit to correct a mild flooding tendency and haven't quite got it sorted out yet. And the 6-volt electrics (my first) just seem inherently weak, though that's probably some age and misuse showing. My worklist on Sorley includes a potential 12v conversion, seatbelts (I don't know that I saw this basic add-on mentioned above), and an interior lining kit, as mine is stripped away. Otherwise, I've got a similar survivor, shown below delivering the annual Christmas Tree. Great truck, and anyone in the neighborhood that already knows "trucks" takes a second look - this one's a Studebaker Truck.

[Skip Lackie]

Thanks Skip,

So based on the serial number, my 1951 2R5 is really a 1952 then?

In your first post you said it was a 1953 model. Registering a truck as a later-year model would have been more common, as it might have made the vehicle slightly more desirable. The 2R series changed only slightly over its five-year run, so almost no one would have known the difference. And in many rural areas, a local county official would have been in charge of vehicle registration, and may not have had access to (or interest in) the official model-year serial number info provided by Studebaker.

In an earlier post, you inquired about a horn. I dug a surplus 2R truck horn out of my stash, but have not tested it. If you are still looking for the correct single horn, I will see if it works.

[Skip Lackie]

I can't add a lot of technical detail to what's been offered - some of the forum's most reliable sages on this one. I'll just say that in my short ownership of Sorley ('50 2R5), he's been a great little worker on the farm. However, I have found the carb to be extremely temperamental - I tinkered a bit to correct a mild flooding tendency and haven't quite got it sorted out yet. And the 6-volt electrics (my first) just seem inherently weak, though that's probably some age and misuse showing. My worklist on Sorley includes a potential 12v conversion, seatbelts (I don't know that I saw this basic add-on mentioned above), and an interior lining kit, as mine is stripped away. Otherwise, I've got a similar survivor, shown below delivering the annual Christmas Tree. Great truck, and anyone in the neighborhood that already knows "trucks" takes a second look - this one's a Studebaker Truck.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]69377[/ATTACH]

I will not try to talk you out of converting to 12 volts, but will suggest that before you give up on your 6v system, you replace your battery cables with quality, heavier units. Many 6v systems provide poor performance because they are trying to push their electrons through cheap, half-sized cables that were designed for 12v systems. A welding shop or a battery store can probably make up a set of 00 cables that might make a big difference.

Seat belts were not available on Stude trucks until the 1956 models, but were then listed as fitting earlier models. I recently installed belts in my 3R6, and had no problems, once I made sure I wasn't gonna drill though the top of the fuel tank. Any universal belt designed for a flat floor will do fine.

[studegary]

In your first post you said it was a 1953 model. Registering a truck as a later-year model would have been more common, as it might have made the vehicle slightly more desirable. The 2R series changed only slightly over its five-year run, so almost no one would have known the difference. And in many rural areas, a local county official would have been in charge of vehicle registration, and may not have had access to (or interest in) the official model-year serial number info provided by Studebaker.

In an earlier post, you inquired about a horn. I dug a surplus 2R truck horn out of my stash, but have not tested it. If you are still looking for the correct single horn, I will see if it works.

Also, some places registered/titled vehicles based on the calendar year that they were first sold. This could be one model year earlier or any number of model years later.

[mkibler]

Honk Honk

In an earlier post, you inquired about a horn. I dug a surplus 2R truck horn out of my stash, but have not tested it. If you are still looking for the correct single horn, I will see if it works.

Skip,

Yes, originally I thought it was a 1953. That was until I got the title, which says it's a 1951. But according to the serial number it looks to be a 1952. We'll split the difference and call it a 1952.

That would be great if I could try your horn out. Can I simply test it by attaching the horn wires to the battery? Positive is ground, negative is hot on this 6 volts system.

Thanks!

Mark

[Steve Winzar]

Hi Mark- I can only agree with the good advice you have had up until now, but having bought a neglected Hawk this year, with totally unresponsive brakes, i can certainly echo the recommendations to rebuild the 'stoppers' first. On the brakes I took on a minimalist approach and rapidly ended up coming to the realisation that I had just wasted my time. I have decided that my Hawk must remain a 'driver' (I have a frame off rebuild nut and bolt restoration of a '61 Hawk going on and I will be an old man when it gets done!) but everything I touch gets 'restored' and rattlecan painted along the way. You can use this experience to begin gaining familiarity with your vehicle. Clean-up and make good as you go. I suggest going into the brake system along one side first- front and rear. Take heaps of digital photos (start a personal blog!). Remove your brake lines and get new ones made so you can re-install these. Do replace the rubber flexible lines (I found all mine to be blocked as well as perished). Remove and recoe or replace the master cylinder along with the wheel cyls- I doubt that any of these will be all that good. If you can justify buying a grinder with a rotary wire wheel for cleaning rusty parts, get one- I find this my most useful acquisition, hands down. This job alone will take some time but will be well worth it, especially if you can manage it without farming jobs out to professionals. Enjoy!
I have attached a few photos to help justify my passion on the subject.
Steve