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Thread: First vintage truck... a Studebaker

  1. #81
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    .
    I think I found the contacts. They look like the set of points underneath a distributor cap, right? I'll clean them gently.

    OK, I cleaned the contacts ("points") and gapped them two or three different ways but no spark or sign of life. I'm stumped.

    Mark
    Last edited by mkibler; 01-09-2018 at 12:13 PM.

  2. #82
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    Did you try reversing the wires?

  3. #83
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    I reversed the wires a few times and made sure that I attached them to good clean metal. I also tried it on a 12 volt battery with the same results.

    I wonder if it has to be connected through a horn relay box? Seems like you should be able to wire it direct with just two wires as I saw a few fellas do on YouTube. That's how I've been doing it anyway.

  4. #84
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    The real purpose of a relay is to reduce the amperage through the horn button contacts so they don't burn. Connecting the horn directly to the battery provides all the amps that the battery can provide. The single horn setups did not use a relay anyway.

    It is certainly possible that the wiring in the vibrator system is broken and the horn is simply no good. I did not test it. Do you have a multimeter? You might want to check the DC resistance from one contact to the other. Dunno what the resistance should be, but it should register as something if the connections are good.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    You might want to check the DC resistance from one contact to the other. Dunno what the resistance should be, but it should register as something if the connections are good.
    I checked the resistance and there is none. No resistance, no horn no honk-honk. I'll move on and look for another horn unless the guys have something else to try. The cone and the base are certainly worth repainting if I can find the 'innards.' It's a standard Delco-Remy unit.

    Does anyone have a working horn unit?

    Thanks,

    Mark

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkibler View Post
    I checked the resistance and there is none. No resistance, no horn no honk-honk. I'll move on and look for another horn unless the guys have something else to try. The cone and the base are certainly worth repainting if I can find the 'innards.' It's a standard Delco-Remy unit.

    Does anyone have a working horn unit?

    Thanks,

    Mark
    Sorry to hear that. If the resistance is zero, I assume it means the horn is shorted internally. If it's infinity, it means the connection has been broken. As I mentioned in my PM to you, I was afraid to test the horn because I was concerned that wiring it backwards would damage it. I think I have another horn here somewhere. If someone with an original 2R horn can tell me which wire goes to which contact, I'll test it.

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    Sorry to hear that. If the resistance is zero, I assume it means the horn is shorted internally. If it's infinity, it means the connection has been broken. As I mentioned in my PM to you, I was afraid to test the horn because I was concerned that wiring it backwards would damage it. I think I have another horn here somewhere. If someone with an original 2R horn can tell me which wire goes to which contact, I'll test it.
    For the record, I dug through my archives and found a 1960 Delco Service Manual which includes a section on Delco horns. It states that the disc-tone horns that were used as standard equipment on 2R/3R trucks can be wired either way. There are no specific ground and hot contacts. They do not need a horn relay.

  8. #88
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    Honk

    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    For the record, I dug through my archives and found a 1960 Delco Service Manual which includes a section on Delco horns. It states that the disc-tone horns that were used as standard equipment on 2R/3R trucks can be wired either way. There are no specific ground and hot contacts. They do not need a horn relay.
    .
    Thanks Skip. That's good to know. I've rounded up three horns now but only one 'honks'. I've tinkered with the other two just to see how the mechanism works and if I could get them going. But I've only had a feeble buzz as a reward.

    I'm sandblasting the "cones" from two of the horns and I'm going to repaint them. Then when I find the mechanism from a second horn I'll hook up a dual horn system with a horn on either side of the radiator.

  9. #89
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    Not to continue to beat a dead/dying horse, but the parts book shows that trucks with dual horns used a more modern design horn, with high and low tones, and a relay.

  10. #90
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    Horses

    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    Not to continue to beat a dead/dying horse, but the parts book shows that trucks with dual horns used a more modern design horn, with high and low tones, and a relay.
    .
    Thanks. This is good information to have before I forge ahead with an idea that sounds destined to be more complicated than I imagined. That's why I signed up to this forum: to get wise advice from fellas smarter than me who have tried things before that didn't work out so well. Thanks for the advice. I'll go with a one-horn system to keep things simple so I can devote more time to the many other things that need fixed.

  11. #91
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    When you're ready for painting or just daydreaming go to Paintref.com/Studebaker to see the factory available color pallets for your model year truck using today's paint code formulations to match the originals. Have fun!

  12. #92
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    Paint

    Quote Originally Posted by T.J. lavallee View Post
    When you're ready for painting or just daydreaming go to Paintref.com/Studebaker to see the factory available color pallets for your model year truck using today's paint code formulations to match the originals. Have fun!
    .
    Always daydreaming of getting her painted~! Thanks for the link to factory colors for my truck.

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