Originally posted by dpson
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WTB 8.5" clutch and pressure plate
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Originally posted by dpson View PostRyan,
I did some searching in my parts and found a NOS 1553598 clutch disc and NOS 1550958 pressure plate.
I sold a bunch of discs at the International Meet last year and didn't know if there were any of these left.
The disc measures 9-1/8" in diameter and the pressure plate 9-1/4" in diameter.
If you think these will work for you send me a Personal Message (PM).
I think we can work something out within your budget, the only unknown is the shipping cost.
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Ryan,
Yes, the 9-1/8" clutch disc will work just fine with the 9-1/4" pressure plate, as that's what the factory switched to after engine number S-182,390 (see notes 10 & 11 in the clutch section of the 1959-1964 Studebaker parts book).Dan Peterson
Montpelier, VT
1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)
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Originally posted by dpson View PostRyan,
Yes, the 9-1/8" clutch disc will work just fine with the 9-1/4" pressure plate, as that's what the factory switched to after engine number S-182,390 (see notes 10 & 11 in the clutch section of the 1959-1964 Studebaker parts book).
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Originally posted by Dwain G. View PostRyan, we haven’t asked yet why you need a clutch. Is it slipping badly or just not disengaging?
As of now, when the pedal is depressed it doesnt come back up. And its kinda tight to pull it back up.
The tranny has water in it anyway so i need to pull it, as well as a toast rear seal in the tranny. So the tranny is coming out one way or another, if that gets pulled will i have to disconnect the bellhousing and all that to readjust everything? My daily driver, a 65 Ranchero 200 l6, needs a new clutch here soon so i wanted to practice on a car that isnt driveable yet. Which is the real reason im itchy to replace the clutch rather than try it out.
Since i got the thing running in july it has sat due to lack of funds and time. The brakes are shot, as well as the front end suspension so its not like i can really just test the clutch anyway, y'know? Im trying to get the car driveable for as cheap as possible while im going to college, so that i have a backup car when the Ranchero needs work.
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You can remove the trans. re-seal it and slide it back in with no problem.
If you decide to pull the Clutch Housing to get to the Clutch, there is no re-Dialing the clutch Housing in to the crank center as you may have read about here, as long as the Original Factory matched Clutch housing is attached to the Original Engine.
Just support the Engine (NOT on the bottom of the Oil Pan), unbolt everything, replace parts and bolt it back together. However, if the Flywheel is badly scored, it will need re-surfacing and you can just unbolt that too.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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If I were you I'd replace the clutch in the Ranchero if it needs it and wait on the Stude untill you know you need it and have the time and dough to do it right. The Ranchero clutch is super easy to replace, about a 2 hour job,( might take you a little longer, I've done it many times) just R&R parts, and it'll only cost about $100 for all the parts, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....333459&jsn=481 .
This is my 200 inch six. This is the third car its been in, with the fourth transmission; who knows how many clutches.
Assuming it's like the V8, if you remove the Stude bellhousing you'll need to index it when re-installing it, which can be difficult and requires measuring tools you may not have.
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Originally posted by StudeRich View Postre-Dialing the clutch Housing in to the crank center as you may have read about here, as long as the Original Factory matched Clutch housing is attached to the Original Engine.
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Originally posted by bensherb View PostIf I were you I'd replace the clutch in the Ranchero if it needs it and wait on the Stude untill you know you need it and have the time and dough to do it right. The Ranchero clutch is super easy to replace, about a 2 hour job,( might take you a little longer, I've done it many times) just R&R parts, and it'll only cost about $100 for all the parts, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....333459&jsn=481 .
[ATTACH=CONFIG]69052[/ATTACH]This is my 200 inch six. This is the third car its been in, with the fourth transmission; who knows how many clutches.
Assuming it's like the V8, if you remove the Stude bellhousing you'll need to index it when re-installing it, which can be difficult and requires measuring tools you may not have.
I might do that then, thats a heck of a lot cheaper so far than the Stude, and the Stude is a long way from driving.
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Originally posted by bensherb View PostIf I were you I'd replace the clutch in the Ranchero if it needs it and wait on the Stude untill you know you need it and have the time and dough to do it right. The Ranchero clutch is super easy to replace, about a 2 hour job,( might take you a little longer, I've done it many times) just R&R parts, and it'll only cost about $100 for all the parts, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....333459&jsn=481 .
[ATTACH=CONFIG]69052[/ATTACH]This is my 200 inch six. This is the third car its been in, with the fourth transmission; who knows how many clutches.
Assuming it's like the V8, if you remove the Stude bellhousing you'll need to index it when re-installing it, which can be difficult and requires measuring tools you may not have.
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