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Thread: WTB 8.5" clutch and pressure plate

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    WTB 8.5" clutch and pressure plate

    Howdy guys,

    Ebay has been difficult trying to find a 8.5" clutch and pressure plate. I got a 61 Lark OHV 6, 3spd OD.
    Im on a budget that has shrunk from $300 to $200. If you can help me out, hit me up so we can make a deal

    Thanks,
    Ryan

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    Speedster Member bensherb's Avatar
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    I've got a bunch of NOS clutches, but I think they're 10", I'll try to remember to check tomorrow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bensherb View Post
    I've got a bunch of NOS clutches, but I think they're 10", I'll try to remember to check tomorrow.
    Great, thanks man!

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    Anyone elsr want to help a fella out?

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    Ryan,

    Do you have the Studebaker parts numbers you are looking for, because when it comes to clutches Studebaker had a lot of variations?

    For example the 1959-1964 Studebaker parts book lists at least 6 different clutch disk options for 1961 6 cylinder cars; such as those for ST (Standard Transmission), OD (Overdrive), HD (Heavy Duty) or those used in the Y1 (long wheelbase models), plus a couple variants depending on the serial number, etc.

    It gets even more complex, because in later Studebaker parts price books (Book F) they show substitutions for some of the different clutch disks.
    Last edited by dpson; 12-05-2017 at 04:42 PM.
    Dan Peterson
    Montpelier, VT
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpson View Post
    Ryan,

    Do you have the Studebaker parts numbers you are looking for, because when it comes to clutches Studebaker had a lot of variations?

    For example the 1959-1964 Studebaker parts book lists at least 6 different clutch disk options for 1961 6 cylinder cars; such as those for ST (Standard Transmission), OD (Overdrive), HD (Heavy Duty) or those used in the Y1 (long wheelbase models), plus a couple variants depending on the serial number, etc.

    It gets even more complex, because in later Studebaker parts price books (Book F) they show substitutions for some of the different clutch disks.
    I don't know anything yet. I haven't pulled the transmission yet due to being busy with school. My shop manual, the big yellow book for 60-64 Stude cars, doesn't seem to list a part number for clutch parts other than the alignment tool. I'd assume it's a Standard Duty OD 8.5" clutch.
    This is a 61 Studebaker OHV 6, 3spd column+OD, 4 door sedan.

    I'll be pulling the tranny here soon after school lets out for winter break. Will the clutch inside have a part number on it?

    Thanks,
    Ryan

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    Ryan,

    You can find the 1959-1964 Studebaker Chassis and Body parts books on Bob Johnstone's site, here is the link to the section on clutches: http://studebaker-info.org/Tech/59x6...4chp47x60.html
    Last edited by dpson; 12-06-2017 at 02:09 AM.
    Dan Peterson
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    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpson View Post
    Ryan,

    You can find the 1959-1964 Studebaker Chassis and Body parts books on Bob Johnstone's site, here is the link to the section on clutches: http://studebaker-info.org/Tech/59x6...4chp47x60.html
    Ok so from what the list has, i think its 1550959. It looks to be a 1 year only clutch

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    Speedster Member bensherb's Avatar
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    Sorry Ryan, I have no 8 or 8 1/2", all mine are 9 1/4", 10" or 10 1/2".

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    Quote Originally Posted by bensherb View Post
    Sorry Ryan, I have no 8 or 8 1/2", all mine are 9 1/4", 10" or 10 1/2".
    Shoot. Would the 8" clutch system from a 60 lark work as well? Whats the downside to the slightly smaller clutch? Would it not grip as well?

    Thanks for looking bensherb

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    Ryan, no guarantee but will check tomorrow with what I have for size.
    Joseph R. Zeiger

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    Quote Originally Posted by 63t-cab View Post
    Ryan, no guarantee but will check tomorrow with what I have for size.
    Great! Thanks man! I really appreciate it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by StarDiero75 View Post
    Shoot. Would the 8" clutch system from a 60 lark work as well? Whats the downside to the slightly smaller clutch? Would it not grip as well?

    Thanks for looking bensherb
    I'm not sure if it the pressure plate will bolt to the flywheel, it might, but you can always use a smaller disk with a larger pressure plate. Yes, smaller is usually less grip.

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    Ryan,

    One more piece of information that may be helpful in your search; every year or so Studebaker (later SASCO) released a "Parts Price List" (aka Book F) which, in addition to showing parts prices, also includes parts substitutions that the company authorized when they ran out of certain parts. These substitutions were functionally correct, but may not be exactly like the original part. If you look below you will see that in the 1970 update Studebaker (SASCO) now listed clutch disc part #1553598 as being a substitute for the 1550958 shown in the original parts book. They also show it as a substitute for the standard transmission (non OD) clutch disc, part number 1550964, so it could be inferred that any of these three numbers should substitute for the other. This should help broaden the options in your search for a clutch disc.

    Last edited by dpson; 12-07-2017 at 03:18 PM.
    Dan Peterson
    Montpelier, VT
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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    Ryan,

    I did some searching in my parts and found a NOS 1553598 clutch disc and NOS 1550958 pressure plate.

    I sold a bunch of discs at the International Meet last year and didn't know if there were any of these left.

    The disc measures 9-1/8" in diameter and the pressure plate 9-1/4" in diameter.

    If you think these will work for you send me a Personal Message (PM).

    I think we can work something out within your budget, the only unknown is the shipping cost.
    Dan Peterson
    Montpelier, VT
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpson View Post
    Ryan,

    I did some searching in my parts and found a NOS 1553598 clutch disc and NOS 1550958 pressure plate.

    I sold a bunch of discs at the International Meet last year and didn't know if there were any of these left.

    The disc measures 9-1/8" in diameter and the pressure plate 9-1/4" in diameter.

    If you think these will work for you send me a Personal Message (PM).

    I think we can work something out within your budget, the only unknown is the shipping cost.
    A 6 cylinder pressure plate and disc will fit nicely in a $19.00 USPS Large flat rate box.

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    Thanks Matt, I was wondering about that.
    Dan Peterson
    Montpelier, VT
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpson View Post
    Ryan,

    I did some searching in my parts and found a NOS 1553598 clutch disc and NOS 1550958 pressure plate.

    I sold a bunch of discs at the International Meet last year and didn't know if there were any of these left.

    The disc measures 9-1/8" in diameter and the pressure plate 9-1/4" in diameter.

    If you think these will work for you send me a Personal Message (PM).

    I think we can work something out within your budget, the only unknown is the shipping cost.
    Would the large 9.125" disk fit when its supposed to have a 8.5"?

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    Ryan, turns out I have none in correct size. "sorry I could not help"

    Quote Originally Posted by StarDiero75 View Post
    Great! Thanks man! I really appreciate it!
    Joseph R. Zeiger

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    Quote Originally Posted by 63t-cab View Post
    Ryan, turns out I have none in correct size. "sorry I could not help"
    Its alright man, thanks for looking anyhow

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    Ryan,

    Yes, the 9-1/8" clutch disc will work just fine with the 9-1/4" pressure plate, as that's what the factory switched to after engine number S-182,390 (see notes 10 & 11 in the clutch section of the 1959-1964 Studebaker parts book).
    Dan Peterson
    Montpelier, VT
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpson View Post
    Ryan,

    Yes, the 9-1/8" clutch disc will work just fine with the 9-1/4" pressure plate, as that's what the factory switched to after engine number S-182,390 (see notes 10 & 11 in the clutch section of the 1959-1964 Studebaker parts book).
    Alright, im gonna pull the tranny on Thursday. Ill let you know whst the deal is afterwards

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    Ryan, we haven’t asked yet why you need a clutch. Is it slipping badly or just not disengaging?

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    Yes, before you pull it apart, have a friend depress the clutch and someone else inspect every part of the linkage. Good call Dwain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwain G. View Post
    Ryan, we haven’t asked yet why you need a clutch. Is it slipping badly or just not disengaging?
    Well the car hasnt been registered since 2002, and the guy said the clutch was failing then. When i got under the car to check the adjustment, it was adjusted all the way tightened.
    As of now, when the pedal is depressed it doesnt come back up. And its kinda tight to pull it back up.
    The tranny has water in it anyway so i need to pull it, as well as a toast rear seal in the tranny. So the tranny is coming out one way or another, if that gets pulled will i have to disconnect the bellhousing and all that to readjust everything? My daily driver, a 65 Ranchero 200 l6, needs a new clutch here soon so i wanted to practice on a car that isnt driveable yet. Which is the real reason im itchy to replace the clutch rather than try it out.
    Since i got the thing running in july it has sat due to lack of funds and time. The brakes are shot, as well as the front end suspension so its not like i can really just test the clutch anyway, y'know? Im trying to get the car driveable for as cheap as possible while im going to college, so that i have a backup car when the Ranchero needs work.

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    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    You can remove the trans. re-seal it and slide it back in with no problem.
    If you decide to pull the Clutch Housing to get to the Clutch, there is no re-Dialing the clutch Housing in to the crank center as you may have read about here, as long as the Original Factory matched Clutch housing is attached to the Original Engine.

    Just support the Engine (NOT on the bottom of the Oil Pan), unbolt everything, replace parts and bolt it back together. However, if the Flywheel is badly scored, it will need re-surfacing and you can just unbolt that too.
    StudeRich
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    Speedster Member bensherb's Avatar
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    If I were you I'd replace the clutch in the Ranchero if it needs it and wait on the Stude untill you know you need it and have the time and dough to do it right. The Ranchero clutch is super easy to replace, about a 2 hour job,( might take you a little longer, I've done it many times) just R&R parts, and it'll only cost about $100 for all the parts, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....333459&jsn=481 .
    200ci ford.jpgThis is my 200 inch six. This is the third car its been in, with the fourth transmission; who knows how many clutches.

    Assuming it's like the V8, if you remove the Stude bellhousing you'll need to index it when re-installing it, which can be difficult and requires measuring tools you may not have.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    re-Dialing the clutch Housing in to the crank center as you may have read about here, as long as the Original Factory matched Clutch housing is attached to the Original Engine.
    Does the 6 cylinder have index pins so the bell housing fits right back in place Rich?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bensherb View Post
    If I were you I'd replace the clutch in the Ranchero if it needs it and wait on the Stude untill you know you need it and have the time and dough to do it right. The Ranchero clutch is super easy to replace, about a 2 hour job,( might take you a little longer, I've done it many times) just R&R parts, and it'll only cost about $100 for all the parts, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....333459&jsn=481 .
    200ci ford.jpgThis is my 200 inch six. This is the third car its been in, with the fourth transmission; who knows how many clutches.

    Assuming it's like the V8, if you remove the Stude bellhousing you'll need to index it when re-installing it, which can be difficult and requires measuring tools you may not have.
    Ive looked at doing it on the ranchero but i do need this car everyday and i dont know what size clutch it is. I know someone swapped in a 3.03 v8 tranny into it b/c the original for my car was a nonsynchro first, which i shift into 1st no prob, and its got this big adapter plate on it.
    I might do that then, thats a heck of a lot cheaper so far than the Stude, and the Stude is a long way from driving.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bensherb View Post
    If I were you I'd replace the clutch in the Ranchero if it needs it and wait on the Stude untill you know you need it and have the time and dough to do it right. The Ranchero clutch is super easy to replace, about a 2 hour job,( might take you a little longer, I've done it many times) just R&R parts, and it'll only cost about $100 for all the parts, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....333459&jsn=481 .
    200ci ford.jpgThis is my 200 inch six. This is the third car its been in, with the fourth transmission; who knows how many clutches.

    Assuming it's like the V8, if you remove the Stude bellhousing you'll need to index it when re-installing it, which can be difficult and requires measuring tools you may not have.
    Are those triple Holley 1904s? Thats sick man. I have a spare 200 that im gonna do the same to but i want to use the glass bowls, i have 1 already, 2 more to go.

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    Yes they are. I didn't notice this pic was an early one before I had all three glass bowls. It's had all three glass bowls for quite some time now. This engine has a Clifford Research cam and Rhodes lifters, along with a milled 170 Ford head and over bore. It will not run on just one carb so all three work simultaneously. It originally had a 4 speed behind it. It destroyed 3 of them, kept breaking cluster gears; and went through many clutches. I finally replaced the 4 speed with a C4 automatic, and blew up the first one of them. Then built a very heavy duty one, that has held up for decades. In the '65 Mustang this engine was originally in, it would pull the front end off the ground at launch. (kinda explains the busted transmissions ) Won't do it in this car, wheel base is too long. But it'll go like a bat outta hell and pull a 2.60 axle gear with 32" rear tires with ease.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bensherb View Post
    Yes they are. I didn't notice this pic was an early one before I had all three glass bowls. It's had all three glass bowls for quite some time now. This engine has a Clifford Research cam and Rhodes lifters, along with a milled 170 Ford head and over bore. It will not run on just one carb so all three work simultaneously. It originally had a 4 speed behind it. It destroyed 3 of them, kept breaking cluster gears; and went through many clutches. I finally replaced the 4 speed with a C4 automatic, and blew up the first one of them. Then built a very heavy duty one, that has held up for decades. In the '65 Mustang this engine was originally in, it would pull the front end off the ground at launch. (kinda explains the busted transmissions ) Won't do it in this car, wheel base is too long. But it'll go like a bat outta hell and pull a 2.60 axle gear with 32" rear tires with ease.
    Thats sick man!!! I want mine to be like that! I plan on putting my extra 200 in a 66 or 67 Fairlane.
    For the ranchero i got, other than the weber 32/36 adapter and the electronic ignition i havent done anyh performance stuff. Its got a 3.03 tranny with a ford 8" rear with 2.8 gears. Man that rear kills me sometimes. I dont shift into 3rd till 50mph, and i think thats around 3800 tp 3900rpm, unless i really need to step on it the i have to shift at whatg sounds like 4k to 4100. Then 3rd kick it down to 1800 or 1900. At 60 it does 2280 i think. Its crappy, which is why i want to do a T5 with a 4.11 rear and 22" tires. Thatll maje it real fun.
    Is a lark easy to modify for a T5? Id like it original but fun to drive, and good rpm on the highway. How is the stock t86 in general? How low does the OD kick it down? I dont know what kind of rear it has but i assume its the stock Dana, like a 44 i think? Probably a 3.5, similar to the Ranchero. Are the 170 OHVs semi quick? As compared to a ford 200? Just curious since ive never driven the lark, but im real anxious to get it going. Id kinda like to daily drive that, being more practical than the ranchero when it comes to people and space.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bensherb View Post
    Does the 6 cylinder have index pins so the bell housing fits right back in place Rich?
    All Stude. Engines have "Dowel Pins" to center the Bell Housing to the Block and Crank, but they are NOT Factory matched identical on EACH Engine/Trans. combo.
    They are custom factory matched/dialed-in so are NOT interchangeable.

    You have to re-drill those Dowel Holes oversize after "Dialing it in".

    That is why you hear us constantly reminding newbe's that these are NOT Chevies, you cannot just "Bolt on" a Bellhousing that did not come from the Factory on that Block!

    Some 6 Cyl. Truck Engines are different than V8's, instead of 2 fixed locating Dowels, they have 2 eccentric "Dowel Bolts" that you can turn to adjust/center.

    You often buy an old 5 Owner Stude. that some "Garage" has installed a "Different" Block, NOS (Blank Serial) or used to the Bell Housing that was in the Car or tried to switch Std. to Auto Trans. or Car Engine in a Truck, they all will eventually "blow up in their face" if they do not read the Shop Manual.
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    All Stude. Engines have "Dowel Pins" to center the Bell Housing to the Block and Crank, but they are NOT Factory matched identical on EACH Engine/Trans. combo.
    They are custom factory matched/dialed-in so are NOT interchangeable.

    You have to re-drill those Dowel Holes oversize after "Dialing it in".

    That is why you hear us constantly reminding newbe's that these are NOT Chevies, you cannot just "Bolt on" a Bellhousing that did not come from the Factory on that Block!

    Some 6 Cyl. Truck Engines are different than V8's, instead of 2 fixed locating Dowels, they have 2 eccentric "Dowel Bolts" that you can turn to adjust/center.

    You often buy an old 5 Owner Stude. that some "Garage" has installed a "Different" Block, NOS (Blank Serial) or used to the Bell Housing that was in the Car or tried to switch Std. to Auto Trans. or Car Engine in a Truck, they all will eventually "blow up in their face" if they do not read the Shop Manual.
    So as long as the bellhousing is original then i dont have to replace the dowel pins? Or i always have to replace them? As far as i know, everything is completely original.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StarDiero75 View Post
    Thats sick man!!! I want mine to be like that! I plan on putting my extra 200 in a 66 or 67 Fairlane.
    For the ranchero i got, other than the weber 32/36 adapter and the electronic ignition i havent done anyh performance stuff. Its got a 3.03 tranny with a ford 8" rear with 2.8 gears. Man that rear kills me sometimes. I dont shift into 3rd till 50mph, and i think thats around 3800 tp 3900rpm, unless i really need to step on it the i have to shift at whatg sounds like 4k to 4100. Then 3rd kick it down to 1800 or 1900. At 60 it does 2280 i think. Its crappy, which is why i want to do a T5 with a 4.11 rear and 22" tires. Thatll maje it real fun.
    Is a lark easy to modify for a T5? Id like it original but fun to drive, and good rpm on the highway. How is the stock t86 in general? How low does the OD kick it down? I dont know what kind of rear it has but i assume its the stock Dana, like a 44 i think? Probably a 3.5, similar to the Ranchero. Are the 170 OHVs semi quick? As compared to a ford 200? Just curious since ive never driven the lark, but im real anxious to get it going. Id kinda like to daily drive that, being more practical than the ranchero when it comes to people and space.
    Interesting, if your Ranchero has an 8" somebody changed it or the engine; they didn't come with a 6 cylinder and an 8". The 170 Ford in stock form is a bit more anemic than the 200, but it has a smaller combustion chamber than the 200. Hence the 170 head on the 200; higher combustion ratio , milled head also = higher CR. I've never had electronic ignition on it, it has a Malory dual point. I've found a 4.11 axle gear to generally be too low for a driver; typically limiting cruising speed to around 70-75 unless you like running with the RPM in the stratosphere. Usually something in the 3's is the best of both worlds.

    My GT has the 3 spd OD, and a 3.54 axle. It works out very nicely. The OD does not "kick it down", it acts as another higher gear. With the low axle ratio you get good low end and the OD makes up for it in the top end. 2nd over is great, I can go from 45mph to 70mph in short order and still have another gear to cruise in at a reasonable RPM. There are guys offering T5 adapters for the Stude so the swap should be easy. I believe the T5's final is around .68 so an axle around .350 should be good.

    My GT's trans is coming apart (counter shaft bearings are gonzoed) plus, traffic and my knees have enticed me to install a GM auto trans. The 3.54 dana is too low for the TH350 auto I have, (can't afford a 700R4) so I'll likely install an 8" with 2.69 gears to end up with a final drive close to what I'm after. If that's too high for the 289 to pull (which I doubt) I have several 8" 3rd members in different ratios I can swap in.

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    Thats neat!!
    My Ranchero should havw had a 7.5", still crappy but not as bad. Im assuming somone ruined it and swapped in a 7" which is anemic. It was a 3.5 though so no bad in town but crappy for highway. I swapped in the 8" recently due to failing rear end bearings. I like the 8" with its dropout.

    I dont go faster than 70, on a good day i do 75. Where i live the speed limit dont go past 60 until yoy get hours out. I figured with the setup i want the rpms will be 2400 at 60 which i think is a nice highway rpm for the 6. If it hits a hill it can climb it easy or if i need to, downshift to 4th and have it spin 3700, plenty of power at 60. But part of me would like to find a 3.8 which wouldnt be as high if i had to downshift. But my rpms at 60 are roughly 2200, which is nice but no power and i definitely have to downshift. We have a lot of hills here in WA.

    Thats cool with the overdrive. I really want to get the lark going. I probably wont ditch the tranny since its original, and the od sounds cool. Ill be definitely doing that t5 in the ranchero though.
    Would a weber 32/36 work nice on the OHV 6 or is it too much? My Ranchero seems to like it, and the extra barrel is nice.

    Thats nice you have backup stuff, thata what im trying to have but all i have for backup stuff now are carbs. My dizzy in the ranch had a bad bearing so i put in the HEI. My other 7" rear will need mods to fit back in now since i had to have the driveshaft modded with a V8 rear yoke. And the brakes are smaller on the 7", plus 4 lug. Which im ruunning 4 in the front and 5 in the back. Haha. Ill be doing power, dual res, disks in the summer to the ranch.
    I picked up a power brake booster out of a 66 Cruiser that i want to use in the lark, the bolt holes match but i cant seem to find a master cylinder that has 4 bolts and fits it. The stock one i have lines up with the studs coming out but the bores dont line up. The Cruiser back at the Autowreckers still has the master cylinder but id like to get a new one, preferably dual res, any ideas where tk get one thatll fit the booster?

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    Whatever you do....don't throw the old clutch pressure plate away!! Get some of your money back by taking an old radiator fan and add a few modifications. I sold this one for $65 after a little colorful paint to enhance the Sea Turtle look:

    DSC07720.JPGDSC07721.JPGDSC07722.JPG


    It's nice to get some good money out of junk parts!!

    Treblig

  38. #38
    Commander Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by Treblig View Post
    Whatever you do....don't throw the old clutch pressure plate away!! Get some of your money back by taking an old radiator fan and add a few modifications. I sold this one for $65 after a little colorful paint to enhance the Sea Turtle look:

    DSC07720.JPGDSC07721.JPGDSC07722.JPG


    It's nice to get some good money out of junk parts!!

    Treblig
    Thats neat man! I will definitely figure something out now!

  39. #39
    President Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Corpus Christi, Tex
    Posts
    971
    Here are some better pics out in the sun after I had painted it with some silver/gray. The silver/gray was just a background color because Sea Turtles are normally bright Reds, Blues and Greens which my daughter will do, she has painting skills...I'm just a mechanic with a little imagination:;

    DSC07723.JPGDSC07724.JPGDSC07725.JPG

    It's just a bunch of junk parts but with a little imagination......you never know, Glad you like it!!

    treblig

  40. #40
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis
    Posts
    3,302
    I keep telling people to never throw away junk metal parts because people make some nice yard art with it.

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