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  • Frame / Springs: Interesting front end work...

    Just found this .... Work being done on a 63 Avanti with Rack & Pinion, ball joints, Mustang spindles, etc.





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    64 GT Hawk (K7)
    1970 Avanti (R3)

  • #2
    Brakes and suspension modifications are extremely hard to do successfully. Hope it works out for the guy!

    Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
    53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
    57 SH (project)
    60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

    Comment


    • #3
      I wonder how alignment is going to be accomplished? Honestly, all I see here is a lot of pain for very little gain. Basic suspension geometry is not being changed. No anti-dive, no rolling negative in hard cornering. And if a rear-steer rack is used, there's going to be interference with the engine.
      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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      • #4
        What gordr said.
        Xactly.

        Better off just dropping the stock upper arm mount for some good camber in the turns and leave the rest as is. That (pictured) setup will not provide.

        Mike

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        • #5
          I Member up here in the Northwest had a '65 Wagonaire, that some fool welded Chev. Nova Outer "A" Arm ends with Ball Joints onto the Stude. Arms and put in 4 Adjustable Air Bags, the only reasonable fix was to scrap it all except the Rear Air Bags and put it back to Stock.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

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          • #6
            I inquired.... the seller assures me that "his fabricator" said it can be aligned like any other car.... He even sells conversion kits.. go figure..
            64 GT Hawk (K7)
            1970 Avanti (R3)

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            • #7
              Just because most people wouldn't "pay" to have this modification done doesn't mean the guys (car owner and fabricator) aren't taking it as a personal challenge with the investment of their own time. In addition to parts that are more readily available at other than selected locations, part of the driving force behind this might be the brake upgrade and not just the suspension. Tubular A-arms, Mustang II front end kits and modifications where whole cross-members (Crown Vic to Ford trucks) seem to all have their place.

              Let them give it a try and if it doesn't work out (to their satisfaction, not anyone else's) THEN it would be time to say, "What were you thinking?"
              '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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              • #8
                It would be interesting if the builder of it would read this thread & comment...

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                • #9
                  wittsend -

                  Nope...not so much.
                  Geometry only goes so far..!

                  On the other hand, your comment "to their satisfaction" is a very accurate comment.
                  Plus...no one's "stopping" them from this experiment.
                  I for one applaud anyone with the b--ls to "experiment" with things. But some engineering background (and high school geometry in this case) should be a large part in most experiments. Like in this case...don't want anyone hurt.

                  Mike

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                  • #10
                    The photos provided don't show the inboard ends of the control arms. They do show the stock factory control arms modified to accept ball joints, but it's not clear if the ball joints can be shifted around on the arms to permit camber and caster adjustments, not that it would the best way to do such adjustments, anyway. The way the stock Studebaker control arms are mounted to the chassis does not permit any adjustment there. The obvious answer would be to weld a flat plate vertically to the top of the spring tower, such that the upper inner control arm shaft could be bolted to it so that its ends were in about the stock position. Ideally, you'd mount that vertical plate a little inboard of there, and use shims under the control shaft to space it back out to the nominal location. That would give you room to adjust camber by adding/removing equal shims at each bolt, or caster by adding/removing shims from one bolt only. Which is how Brand X's accomplish alignment, in many cases. (Not so much now, with MacPherson struts)
                    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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                    • #11
                      Here is the entire listing..
                      64 GT Hawk (K7)
                      1970 Avanti (R3)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        front end modifications may be the least of the new owners worries................
                        Originally posted by 64V-K7 View Post

                        Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
                        53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                        57 SH (project)
                        60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The asking price for this R2 with engine rebuild done is $14,000. Impossible to know for certain, but a WAG, based upon a typical "well-known restorer/fabricator" shop pricing, I'd estimate the front suspension work at $4,000.Would you pay more or less for this R2 because it has the described modifications?

                          A well know restorer/fabricator designed and fabricated a major upgrade to the front Disk brakes, suspension and steering. He stripped, inspected and painted the front subframe, and cleaned and inspected other areas of the frame and rear axel assembly. Modern steering rack installed, He installed and did custom fabrication work to install a1969 Ford Mustang disk brake conversion and front suspension modifications to actually allow an Avanti to steer, stop and handle like it never did in factory form.
                          jack vines
                          PackardV8

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                          • #14
                            Per Jacks question -

                            I would not buy a car modified in such a way unless, 1. I knew the person that did the work and knew h/she did it correctly, or 2. I did the work. No bragging here, but I now my work and how I arrive at the various decisions that need to be made.

                            I've seen supposed "experts" work. In many cases, it's no better design wise than 1950's/60's Studebaker suspension. I'm talking geometry, not welds..! "Kit" chassis are the same. No anti-dive, no roll camber (in turns), etc. You have to spend extra money to get a "properly" designed front suspension when buying a fancy (expensive) custom chassis.

                            Mike

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                            • #15
                              I am seeing no provision whatsoever for alignment adjustments, and the steering rack is sitting right where the sump on the oil pan wants to be.
                              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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