Will not start

[doofus]

Iv'e had the flickering light problem also. i switched to an electronic reg. and it needs grounding. you could have a draggy starter sucking all the current when cranking. check for fire out of coil when cranking. Luck Doofus

[MrBulldops]

Iv'e had the flickering light problem also. i switched to an electronic reg. and it needs grounding. you could have a draggy starter sucking all the current when cranking. check for fire out of coil when cranking. Luck Doofus

Oh, it's a sealed regulator. There's just a plug from the alternator that attaches to it. The pulsating lights are at idle.

[TWChamp]

Sounds like a bad regulator, and when you replace it be sure the new one is always grounded. Sounds like a 2 wire MoPar regulator with a triangular plug.

[MrBulldops]

Sounds like a bad regulator, and when you replace it be sure the new one is always grounded. Sounds like a 2 wire MoPar regulator with a triangular plug.

That's exactly what it is. It's just not labeled anywhere, but it was listed as Chrysler when I bought it. Must have been a dud out of the box. I'm going to take the alternator in and have it tested too though. My six month old battery tested bad--unable to hold charge--yesterday and I had to replace it. I'm wondering if the regulator or alternator (or both) ruined it. I'm not sure how sensitive batteries are to bad charging components, but I hope I didn't fry the new one checking my readings. That would be my luck...

[gordr]

Clearly, the alternator and regulator are not original to the car. A '60 Lark was equipped with a generator. Alternator swaps are neither uncommon nor bad, but do raise the possibility of something having been omitted or done incorrectly.

[MrBulldops]

Clearly, the alternator and regulator are not original to the car. A '60 Lark was equipped with a generator. Alternator swaps are neither uncommon nor bad, but do raise the possibility of something having been omitted or done incorrectly.

Welcome to my world, sir. Haha!

I'm going to have the alternator tested and swap the regulator under warranty this afternoon

[MrBulldops]

Everything seems to be in order now. Alternator tested good at AutoZone.

I installed a new regulator and I tested for the following:

Engine to frame: <1ohm
Alternator to engine: <1ohm
Alternator to frame: <1ohm
Regulator to frame: <1ohm
Voltage at battery at idle: 14.5v

Lights no longer fluctuate, and there was no smoke at startup. Choke was set to center notch and the engine kicked over with one pump and almost as soon as I turned the key; just like it used to.

The high idle is a bit too high, but I'll make that adjustment when the engine cools. For now, everything seems to be fine. Gonna have to keep an eye on the battery though. It's a 3-year battery from O'Reilly, but it lasted only about six months. Could be the old regulator killed it, but I'm now suspicious.

[Jeffry Cassel]

This sounds like Ceci's Champion and that too short sparkplug spark sequestration issue. Might try a longer plug in the same heat range. (Not too much Longer!!)

[TWChamp]

I replaced a number of those regulators during the 80's when I worked at a MoPar dealership. One customer's regulator went bad and was charging much too high, when he was 50 miles from home. Instead of unplugging the regulator, he kept driving, and after about 25 miles, his battery exploded.