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Thread: 1950 Champion rear brakes

  1. #1
    Champion Member
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    1950 Champion rear brakes

    I can't get the rear drums/hubs off the axles on the rear of my 1950 Chanpion. I've got a big OTC puller with legs on all four lug studs and have tried heating the right side hub with no joy.

  2. #2
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Here's some good recent info/help:

    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...moval-revisted
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  3. #3
    Silver Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    It is kinda early in the morning here, so pardon me if my words indicate either too much, or not enough coffee. But, reading this post regarding hub pulling reminds me that there are lots of folks who continue to struggle with tapered axles. Especially, since they are more and more ancient and unfamiliar to successive generations. In my younger years, from the mid 1950's through the mid 1960's, I was exposed to them. First, as a "go-fer," handing wrenches to adults, while they routinely dealt with, what was then, a routine task. Like today, in some cases, they often caused a struggle back then. That's where I sometimes learned some words that a nine or ten year old should not hear.

    For power transmission purposes, "tapered joint" technology has been around for many years. In many machine tools, it is still being used with great efficiency. The OTC type puller, as has been discussed recently, is a very good design. I have also seen some pretty good homemade innovations to accomplish the task. However designed, there is still a bit of deftness, dexterity, and skill required to attach and operate the puller. Over the years, I have learned, "The Straighter, The Better," when attaching these tools before applying force. So, whether you are attaching the puller legs on three or four lugs, it is very important to attach the puller legs evenly on the lugs of the hub. In addition, it is important to line the big puller "Lead Bolt/screw," centered on the axle. It takes time & patience to manipulate the lead screw, legs, (and in my case) the extra metal wafer I use along with the axle nut, wedged together to protect the threads of the axle. Most of the time, I end up spending more time on "set-up," than actual pulling. The reason is that any "off-center" pulling, can create "binding." Binding seems to exponentially increase the effort required to release the hub.

    On my puller, I first snug the assembly tight by hand. Then use a ratchet/socket to tighten it securely. If the hub releases with the ratchet, great! But, most often, it don't. I follow that by placing the supplied puller wrench on the lead screw. It is the part with the lugs on the ends for whacking away with a hammer. Don't be timid about it. It is built for that. I alternate between hitting the lugs and tapping dead center on the end. Usually, a few more whacks on the wrench lugs, than the end of the lead screw. In addition to the force applied, the straight on end blows add "shock." Unlike tapered machine tools, tapered axles have no "drift slot" access for releasing the joint. So, the pulling force and shock force alternate.

    Back to my original statement...THE STRAIGHTER THE BETTER...and, if it's too easy, it's not a good joint. I've had some more difficult than others, but never damaged or ruined one using these techniques. Good luck with yours.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC
    [IMG][/IMG]
    SDC member since 1975

  4. #4
    Speedster Member
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    I did have one that I never did get off. If it does not come of tighten the puller (use the impact wrench if you have one) and leave it) Penetating oil might help. Everyday tighten, spray and give it a few good whacks with a big hammer. Be sure the shoes are backed off all the way. I've had some luck heating it then quenching with WD-40. Good luck!

  5. #5
    President Member nvonada's Avatar
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    John is right. The legs need to be tight and straight. Also the force involved is a lot more than you think it should be. You have to really tighten that puller. If you look a at a puller that has been used a couple times the "dog bone" will show signs of serious beating!

  6. #6
    Speedster Member
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    I thought they went to 5 studs in 1950. I guess that's what happens when I think.

  7. #7
    President Member
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    Champions were 4 lug thru 1950.
    Last edited by kurtruk; 09-16-2017 at 01:31 PM.
    KURTRUK
    (read it backwards)




    Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

  8. #8
    President Member
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    This is good timing. I'll be removing a couple rear hubs on a '50 Champion in a few days. I wish I had four puller legs, but I'll carefully line up the three on my puller.
    Perry
    \'50 Business Champ,
    \'50 Starlight Champ,
    \'60 Lark Convertible,
    \'63 GT R1,
    \'67 Triumph TR4A

  9. #9
    Champion Member
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    It's been so long since I have done one of these. I can't remember... Is there any protruding part of the flange sticking out from the brake drum, or is it all hidden inside?
    Reason I ask, is that the assembly is similar to a ball joint or rod end. With those, the secret is to hit the side with a hammer as you back it up with a dolly (both heavy) while the puller is attatched. The idea is to smack it "out of round" for an instant and get it to let go.

  10. #10
    Speedster Member
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    Thanks, have a 49 champion, live and learn.

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