Fuel System: 1955 Champion caburetor diaphragm

[ETLMT]

I am told that my diaphragm in my carburetor must have dried out and is leaking and that instead of buying a kit I should just buy a new carburetor.

Is this the general consensus?
I also read that you cannot get the glass bowls, but I see them on EBay, are they okay to buy?

[Ross]

Uh, that carburetor does not have a diaphragm unless it has been changed out for something much newer. It does however have an accelerator pump plunger which is part of every rebuild kit. To find a new carburetor would be just shy of miraculous and it would need a kit installed.

What is your actual complaint with your carb? Leaking or hesitating? The glass bowl fuel filters are readily available. I have bought many from Chevrolet truck restoration vendors.

[jclary]

As Ross states, the accelerator pump is probably what is referred to as the "diaphragm." I have heard it referred to as the plunger, or plunger skirt. I also believe that, due to conventional carburetors being vented to atmosphere, gas evaporates and causes excessive cranking after sitting. One of those glass bowl filters, placed near the carburetor will supply a ready (close) supplemental reservoir of gas that should shorten cranking time. Those glass bowl filters were very common, and period correct for any car of the era.

[ETLMT]

What is your actual complaint with your carb? Leaking or hesitating? The glass bowl fuel filters are readily available. I have bought many from Chevrolet truck restoration vendors.

I know how to make your low back, hip adductors and several other muscles feel better just by working your chewing muscles, but the amount of knowledge that I know about cars is weaker than my arthritic pinkie...

Yes it is leaking. Would I just need to replace the filter?

A "friend" did not know why it had an electronic pump and took it off when replacing the fuel line... now I need to try to find it.

[ETLMT]

Wow, I am still Jet Lagged...

I meant to say my fuel pump is leaking...

[jclary]

Wow, I am still Jet Lagged...

I meant to say my fuel pump is leaking...

Well...at least you have a legitimate excuse...since I don't imbibe, or fly (of recent)...I'm just "Lagged"

Besides the obvious "Fire Hazard" a busted fuel pump diaphragm will spurt gasoline out the fuel pump vent hole and contaminate the oil in your oil pan. Replace/rebuild the fuel pump immediately and change your oil.

[Corvanti]

A "friend" did not know why it had an electronic pump and took it off when replacing the fuel line... now I need to try to find it.

i don't think i'd let your "friend" touch your '55 again!

although there may be a few folks that don't agree, i'd get that electric fuel pump back on there. the best location is on the frame between the fuel tank and the mechanical fuel pump with inline fuel filters before and after the electric pump. the filters are especially important if the fuel tank hasn't been cleaned out. i'd also replace the rubber fuel lines if old, with new ones that can handle the ethanol (crap) gas. now, there are several ways to go with the fuel pumps. get a plate and block off the area where the mech fuel pump connects to the engine. my preference is to run a "hidden" toggle switch under the dash and use the electric for start up or in vapor lock situations. that way is also safer in case of a bad crash and/or rollover.

if you can't find your fuel pump, some Studebaker Vendors will have them: https://www.studebakervendors.com/
also available on Ebay. both 6 volt or 12 volt - if your '55 has been changed over to 12V. the cost for all parts for the above suggestions shouldn't be over $100. including the 6 Volt pumps that are around $40 on Ebay.

here's a link for non-ethanol gas in Iowa: https://www.studebakervendors.com/

good luck, and the have fun with your '55!!!

[ETLMT]

Done! i don't think i'd let your "friend" touch your '55 again!

OK! the best location is on the frame between the fuel tank and the mechanical fuel pump with inline fuel filters before and after the electric pump.
Done! the filters are especially important if the fuel tank hasn't been cleaned out.

Done i'd also replace the rubber fuel lines if old, with new ones that can handle the ethanol (crap) gas.
now, there are several ways to go with the fuel pumps.
You lost me! get a plate and block off the area where the mech fuel pump connects to the engine. my preference is to run a "hidden" toggle switch under the dash and use the electric for start up or in vapor lock situations. that way is also safer in case of a bad crash and/or rollover.
Are you saying not to put a mechanical pump on if you are telling me to "put a plate and block off the area"?

if you can't find your fuel pump, some Studebaker Vendors will have them: https://www.studebakervendors.com/
also available on Ebay. both 6 volt or 12 volt - if your '55 has been changed over to 12V. the cost for all parts for the above suggestions shouldn't be over $100. including the 6 Volt pumps that are around $40 on Ebay.

here's a link for non-ethanol gas in Iowa: https://www.studebakervendors.com/


From what I am seeing it will cost me $150 -$50 returned core or $195 if REBUILT WITH 30% ALCOHOL TOLERANT PARTS.

Would you mind sending me links to the parts, please?

I think I trashed the old ones, but I will look today.

[Corvanti]

sorry if i wasn't clear in the post. i was trying to be brief.

the fuel pump block plate is used if you go with only the electric pump.

my preference is to use the electric pump in line with the mechanical pump for start ups, etc. with the toggle switch.

the $100 was a price without purchasing another mechanical pump. a mechanical fuel pump lists at $65 for '55 thru '58 Champions at Studebaker International, Part# 536435. a generic 6 volt electric fuel pump lists at $55. Part# 800249. the email address is: studebaker-intl.com

if nothing else, order their catalog for $5. also pick up the Studebaker Service Manual, Parts and Chassis manuals. all of those can be usually found on Ebay.

and another on the non-ethanol gas post. here's the correct link: https://www.pure-gas.org/

hope this helps...

[ETLMT]

the fuel pump block plate is used if you go with only the electric pump.

my preference is to use the electric pump in line with the mechanical pump for start ups, etc. with the toggle switch.

Why do you prefer both?

[Corvanti]

using both - the mechanical fuel pump with the electric pump & switch, the carb float bowl is filled quickly and the car will start faster. the gas will evaporate in the float bowl after sitting a few days. also less wear on the starter/system. in hot vapor lock conditions, will keep a good flow of fuel to the carb. turning the switch off will keep the electric pump from running after a crash/rollover. big fire hazard.

to add to the possible confusion, there are "gravity switches" that can be installed on the positive wire to the pump - if using the electric pump all the time. this will cut power to the pump only in case of a rollover.

another reason to keep the mechanical pump would be if one was going to have the vehicle entered in car show judging for originality. not that big of a deal to me, but it keeps the purists happy. the electric pump on the inside of the frame and the "hidden" toggle switch keeps it hidden from most all.

[ETLMT]

Thank you sir!

[ETLMT]

Corvanti,

I had the wrong fuel pump sent to me and when trying to order through Studebaker international they wanted the core first. If I was doing the work myself it would not have been a problem.

You got me thinking. When I got the car there was two ignitions and I reduced it down to one, but now I am willing to bet that the second was for the fuel pump.
I have no idea why else the second switch would have been there.

[mbstude]

For the record, new reproduction 185 pumps for '55-58 aren't available at the moment.