Engine: engine stand advice needed for bare 289

[StudeCat]

Hello, it's my first post! I'm Carl from PA. I've got a 1958 289 engine that I will tear down and rebuild. I found it in a junkyard a while back. It had been sitting about 43 years and was seized. I freed it up. Now I want to put it on an engine stand.

The engine has no accessories and no transmission. There is no bell housing, flywheel, or other parts after the rear of the block.

On the flange where those parts would mount on the rear of the block, the tapped holes are 5/16-18. The engine weight can't be supported on four bolts in those holes (can it?).

What do I need to put the engine up on the stand safely?

[oilnsteel]

Welcome, Carl.

I've been doing it that way for years and still have both feet intact. Use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts.

Jim

[jclary]

Glad you found us Carl! For my test stand, I used an inexpensive utility trailer frame as a foundation. First, I mounted a six cylinder and had it running. Now, I have a 289 truck engine mounted, but have not gotten it running as of yet. Due to other obligations, my progress has been slowed to "fits & bits." Before you can start and run the engine, you will need a flywheel & bellhousing, so you can install a starter.

You will notice that this truck engine uses a four point mounting system. A car engine will use a three point system, two in front, and one at the bottom center of the bellhousing. These pictures are several months old, and since taking them, some progress has been made. The rear pic was when I was mocking up the muffler mount, and the front pic was mocking up the radiator. Since these pics were taken, I have added a battery box, mounted the radiator, and exhaust/muffler. I have begun to work on distributor, carburetor, fuel tank, etc., before I can attempt to fire it up and evaluate it.

Good luck with your project. At the rate I'm going, you will probably have yours running before mine.

[jackb]

Try to avoid offshore units.... Check your local Craig's List or other for a decent USA unit with 4 base rollers/caster.

[64studeavanti]

I will echo the 4 wheel over the 3 wheel. I have both and the 3 wheel is a little tippy
Harbor freight has both. Their heavier 4 wheel that folds up works great.

[cartermw]

I just bolted my 1957 259 to a Torin Big Red T26801 Engine Stand I bought off of Ebay and it works perfectly for a lower price. I would never try starting it on there but to work on I have no concern. BTW you didn't mention what it is going in but I have a flywheel, bell housing, and 3 speed od transmission (out of 1957 wagon) for sale in Ohio.

[sweetolbob]

I will echo the 4 wheel over the 3 wheel. I have both and the 3 wheel is a little tippy
Harbor freight has both. Their heavier 4 wheel that folds up works great.

Totally agree with this post. Buy a four wheel unit even if it's from HF. The Stude V8 is a pretty heavy beast in full dress so tipping would be my concern. The 5/16 bolts Grade 2 in shear are rated in excess of 300 pounds working each so four grade 5 or 8 should be fine. Hell, most folks lift engines with a plate bolted to the carb mounts.

[StudeCat]

Jim, John, Jack, Henry, Michael, Bob, thanks for the feedback. Before I got it, the engine lost the carb, rockers, lower bell housing, starter, etc. I have a pretty good shopping list going.

It's mostly disassembled except for the cam & gears. I want to put it on a stand so I can remove the soft plugs, oil relief valve, etc in preparation for hot tank cleaning.

[Mike Van Veghten]

To answer the actual question -
Yes, the stock fastener diameter will hold up just fine as long as you use good fasteners. Don't use cheap grade 2 fasteners. Allan bolts or grade 8 will hold fine. You sure they are 5/16" ?

I had a complete engine on my stand for over a year, I currently have a bare block on a cheap...three wheel stand, been there for...well...a long time (I need to put that one together..!).

The biggest thing about the four wheel vs. the three wheel stand...is stability, NOT overall strength. Moving a four wheel is MUCH easier than moving a three wheel.

Mike

Mike

[StudeCat]

I grabbed what I think was a 5/16-18 bolt from the bin and threaded it into several holes around the rear flange. Were other hardware sizes used there on the V8s?

[JoeHall]

I use the 1000 pound rated, four legged stands from HF, and have always been leery of how the motor weight tilts the the pivot neck. When mounting a long block on it (before tear down), I lift the pulley end about 1/2" and install a safety jack below the pulley, supporting about 50-100 pounds on that end. I do that whether it is a 259/289 or 352 motor. During reassembly, I also use the safety stand once ready to set the heads back on.

Never owned a run-in stand, but have often wished I did.

[jackb]

ditto on the front support per JoeHall

[DieselJim]

I think you will find that the bolts are 3/8.

[jclary]

Jim, John, Jack, Henry, Michael, Bob, thanks for the feedback. Before I got it, the engine lost the carb, rockers, lower bell housing, starter, etc. I have a pretty good shopping list going.

It's mostly disassembled except for the cam & gears. I want to put it on a stand so I can remove the soft plugs, oil relief valve, etc in preparation for hot tank cleaning.

Sorry 'bout my post early this morning. My mind was into my "Engine Run Test Stand," project and not the simple "engine work stands." After posting this morning, I had to run some errands, and didn't realize what you really had in mind until I got back.

I have two of those simple engine stands. One is a very old three legged one that I later converted into a chrome buffer/polisher. The other is a heavy duty four legged one. For the wrenching you are describing, one of those is great. Whether you buy one at a store, craigslist, or yard sale, I would inspect the welds, and if good, just use it. Like any shop tool, be aware of your surroundings, keep your feet outta the way, and everything will be fine. Anything conveniently added for safety is OK, as long as you don't make it too cumbersome to make the work difficult.

I also recommend that you buy an engine crane/cherry picker that will be a great help in lifting and moving the engine around the shop. It is not unusual to find these on craigslist being sold by "one time project" uses, and then sold cheap to get them out of the way. Hope you wear yourself out having fun.

[jrlemke]

I modified my three leg stand to four legs. I also adapted a boat winch to the top with a short boom so I can lift an engine from the floor and attach it to the arms on the stand. The winch is removable so it's out of the way when working on the engine. I have had Buick nailheads on the stand, the later ones have 3/8" bellhousing bolts (early ones have 7/16"). The Buick and Studebaker weigh about the same. I also put a block under the front of the pan until I have the heads etc. off. never dropped one yet! -Jim