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Experience insulating a steel building?

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  • Experience insulating a steel building?

    I am having a steel building (24' x 35') put up. I definitely need to insulate it. Anyone done one?
    From what I've seen in trying to research the best method and material, I clearly don't want to use fiberglass insulation.
    Hopefully it will become a home for my two Studebakers plus a bunch of stuff that I can't fit in elsewhere.
    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

  • #2
    Paul, call me directly at 717-574-1529-- Gordon Been there, done that Twice. Gordon

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    • #3
      Why don't you like fiberglass?
      Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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      • #4
        I would recommend the 6 foot wide blankets , that go on under the metal. When I built my shop originally, it was going to be cold storage, so I didn't insulate it. When I converted it to a shop, I had to frame the inside, and put fiberglass and drywall. It was a lot more costly to do it that way, but turned out well. My son has a red iron building, with the blanket insulation. and it is comfortable in the winter. He covered the bottom 8', with OSB, to protect it from damage .
        Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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        • #5
          I had 2" of closed cell foam sprayed and 8' 3/4 ply - very pleased.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rowan View Post
            I had 2" of closed cell foam sprayed and 8' 3/4 ply - very pleased.
            I would agree with Rowan, I would spray on insulation.

            We do this at work for all of our commercial boats. Ice holds very well in the fish hold and Also use it in the cabin and all the boats are toasty in the winter time
            Charles

            1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

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            • #7
              I have reservations about foam vs fiberglass. First I wonder about gassing off. Second what will the foam do over the next 50 years? Fiberglass is an inert material which will not be altered by time or water infusion. Then there is the question of running a new wire if needed....perhaps not convenient with fiberglass but perhaps much less convenient with foam.
              Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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              • #8
                I have a 40 by 40 foot Butler building attached to my house, built in 1984-85, and it has 2 inches of urethane foam sprayed on the ceiling. I would not consider anything else. After spraying the foam, and before moving a lot of equipment inside, spray it with a good coat of bright white latex paint - you will never regret it. I did my exterior walls with steel studs and drywall, also painted bright white. Take the time to install lots of outlets , running Romex type wire through the studs, and you will not have to mess with conduit so much. I actually ran conduit and copper air and water lines under my slab to a cabinet near the front door of my shop. You can't have too many air and electrical outlets if you plan to do work there. I have hot and cold water mixing in my wash sink at the back of the shop, and ran this to the front of the shop, so I can wash my cars with warm water in front of the shop.

                I got lucky and was able to take down a lot of vinyl coated drywall from some offices in a building that was being gutted, 4 by 9 foot panels, so it worked out really well for me and looks nice, no taping of joints. I am now replacing the fluorescent lights with some 4 ft LED tube lights, very bright and using a lot less power.
                Trying to build a 48 Studebaker for the 21st century.
                See more of my projects at stilettoman.info

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                • #9
                  I am curious.
                  If you are having it built... What does your builder say?
                  HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                  Jeff


                  Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                  Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
                    I am curious.
                    If you are having it built... What does your builder say?
                    The builder doesn't do insulation, but I'm going to get their recommendations when they show up on Monday. All they do is send a truck with the complete building on it, assemble it in one day and go on to another installation. It's a whole lot easier to get a building permit for a building like this than for a stick-built finished shop. I really only want to make sure it is insulated so I don't have a condensation problem.

                    I don't need much electricity since I have a 12' x 24' garage already with 100 amp service and an oversize attached double garage with an 11-foot ceiling, power and hot and cold water.
                    I may be foolish, but I'm am going to try to use solar for lighting and that will be about it. And, I can use my 7,000-watt/30 amp generator to power things in a pinch.
                    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
                    '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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                    • #11
                      My problem with foam is, It's HIGHLY flamable, and the fumes from burning foam are extreemly Toxic. (this from an old firefighter)
                      Neil Thornton

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rockinhawk View Post
                        My problem with foam is, It's HIGHLY flamable, and the fumes from burning foam are extreemly Toxic. (this from an old firefighter)
                        That is a really excellent point.
                        Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by rockinhawk View Post
                          My problem with foam is, It's HIGHLY flamable, and the fumes from burning foam are extreemly Toxic. (this from an old firefighter)
                          I watched a couple do-it-yourself foam installation videos on the internet today. Kind of scary. Full hazmat suits, helmets, goggles, "approved" respirators, nitrile gloves....
                          Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
                          '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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                          • #14
                            It may be helpful to have a ridge vent on your roof to allow moisture to evaporate, this may also help in keeping the inside air a similar temperature to the outside air and thus reduce condensation.
                            sigpic
                            In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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                            • #15
                              I am leery of using the two part spray foam insulation. Our industrial hygenist required us to use splash gear and breathing air when we were insulating some of our test articles where I worked. The foam gives off formaldehyde vapors as it cures.My shop uses the rolled fiberglass insulation but I am not happy with it. The outside covering on the ceiling is falling off and making quite a mess. I don't know what is causing it and I plan to talk to the manufacturer of the building to find a solution.

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