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Thread: First Step of the New Project

  1. #1
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    The Packard Hawk Bonneville Racer

    My project for later this year followed me home yesterday. It was the most harrowing car pick up I have ever experienced. That says a lot as I have picked up over 300 cars in my lifetime. I don't have time to share the whole story right now but will do so soon. Here is the foundation for what will be a 200 mile per hour 1957 Golden Hawk clone.


    More about the project in the future. Oh and YES it will be Studebaker powered.
    Last edited by SilverHawkDan; 01-05-2018 at 07:36 PM. Reason: Title change

  2. #2
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    The license plate says it's an AWK
    KURTRUK
    (read it backwards)




    Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

  3. #3
    Silver Hawk Member
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    Dan glad to see you made it home OK, how long did it take ? see you at La Pama

    Bob
    Candbstudebakers
    Castro Valley,
    California



  4. #4
    President Member Noxnabaker's Avatar
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    Seriously pretty!
    But are you gonna make a G.H. out of it? Seems hard with those sweet rear side windows...

  5. #5
    Silver Hawk Member 52-fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noxnabaker View Post
    Seriously pretty!
    But are you gonna make a G.H. out of it? Seems hard with those sweet rear side windows...
    I was wondering the same thing.???


    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

  6. #6
    Silver Hawk Member
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    Golden hawk is just a name in this case.
    Candbstudebakers
    Castro Valley,
    California



  7. #7
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    Bob is right. Because of the problems associated with hardtops and window blow out at over 200 miles per hour the SCTA likes it when you use a coupe instead. Cleaning up loose pieces of Lexan and holding up the race is not high on their list of good things. So we will use a coupe and paint it Gold after installing all the other Golden Hawk goodies. Good catch though. Bob we did make it home by 1:30 AM. Safe and sound. See you at La Palma. Are you interested in a batch of Hawk parts? I can bring them with.

  8. #8
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    Got some work done today on the Hawk finally. Got the Jag rear suspension installed with the adjustable ride height adjustment shocks. Didn't get the new wheels yet so will have to make due with these for this weekend. Looks kinda goofy with those tiny 26" tires and zero offset wheels. Short list for tomorrow and then load up and hit the road again. La Palma here we come.

  9. #9
    President Member Noxnabaker's Avatar
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    I'm all for coupe's compared to hard tops myself so I fancy it more like this...!
    (There's a "Silver Hawk hard top (!) in Sweden, I think it's been changed in the 70's, didn't help the looks in my opinion.)

  10. #10
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    I didn't have time to share it when I posted the pictures but this car is actually quite amazing. First, I grabbed hold of the fan and pushed down on the belt and gave a tug. The engine turned over real smooth. Then I checked the oil and it was so clean I could read the dipstick through the oil film. So I put a battery in it and using my bump starter turned it over. It spun over smooth and quiet. SO I cranked it while watching the oil pressure gauge and it got oil pressure within about five seconds. Kept cranking and oil pressure reached 60 psi. Good sing so I took it a step further and poured some gas mixed with Marvel Oil to lube things up done the carb. It fired right off on the second or third crank. I did that twice and then figured out the fuel pump is toast. So I rigged up my electric fuel pump and a can of gas and fired it off. It runs great. Smooth, quiet leak free (ya like that will last), smoke free and you could put a glass of water on top of the air cleaner and it wouldn't spill a drop. So I guess the mechanic former owner kept it in good shape. Then feeling brave I put it in gear. The transmission went right into reverse without a seconds hesitation. Shifted to forward and same result. So no brakes but I did drive it down by the camper to make room for the wedding rehearsal dinner that night. Can't wait to get brake on it and flush the tank and get it driving. Took a long look at all the paperwork provided by the seller and best I can figure is the 76,000 on the odometer is the correct mileage. Pedal wear (or should I say lack of) and all the original interior and trunk mats seem to confirm that. Might explain why the engine runs like it does. More as it happens.
    Dan

  11. #11
    President Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Sounds like an excellent car! Looks very good too. I never would have thought to put those two colors together but it looks very nice. Unique too.
    Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

  12. #12
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    Fired up the Power Hawk today. Drove it up to the shop and left it running to see what worked and what didn't. Most everything works but it will need some work on the lights before hitting the road. Hot oil pressure (160 degrees) after thirty minutes of running was 50 psi. Good but might have a stuck pressure relief valve. No smoke or noises. Sounds real good but need to cut the rotted muffler off as the drivers side one already fell off before we got the car. The accelerator pump is weak and causing a stumble so need to adjust that. The original carb I found in the trunk is in good shape and only needs a rebuild. Makes me wonder why the guy put the Chevy carb on instead of rebuilding the original. Maybe he got the Chevy one for free or something. So with that done I began covering the car with a tarp. Set off the bug bombs as it is time to kill all the spiders and critters that might call the car home. Hope to get it jacked up and check the brakes and get some tires put on it tomorrow. Need to drain the tank and give the entire car a good looking over. Hope to have it on the road by next weekend.


    More as it happens.
    Dan

  13. #13
    President Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Cool! The discovery part of new car acquisition is always fun!
    Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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    I own a 1957 Golden Hawk and might be interested in any parts that you would not be using. I will be heading out to San Francisco area with the motorhome around the second week of July.
    Thanks
    Bob

  15. #15
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    BODY COUNT IS AT SEVEN!!!

    I thought there were only six but found another one when I pulled the right front wheel. That makes seven dead black widows, assorted other spiders and some beetle looking bugs. Man that car was infested. Pulled the wheels and tire off of it and cleaned up the hub caps and the wheels with the hose. Vacuumed off the brake drums and webs. Decided to check out the hydraulics before pulling the drums. Bled the brakes and ended with a firm, no leak down, nice high pedal. Locked the brakes on for a full twenty minutes and not one leak. Good sign, so decided to take a look. This is what I found:








    No you are not seeing things. That is exactly as I found it and yes no brake dust. It looks like the mechanic who owned it put all new brakes on it with new drums, shoes, wheels cylinders, hardware , seals and hoses. then never drove it. It is as if he was getting it ready to put back on the road and never got to drive it. Even the back drums came off without a major fight. Major score for whoever ends up buying the front suspension and differential when we convert the car later this year. They will get all new brakes. Put it back together and the brakes are ready to go. Yes, I used anti-seize copper on the axle shafts. It will come apart nicely the next time. Decided to check out the differential. Cleaned off the tag and it reads 43/13 so it has a 3.31 gear ratio and it does NOT have TT.

    Loaded up the tires and took them to the tire shop. Will pick them up in the morning with good used tires road ready. Moved on to the fuel tank and found it had been removed and cleaned. New fill hose with new clamps, new fuel line with new clamps and the wiring to the sender has been changed. No gas smell at the cap and it is dry as a bone. So it looks like it was removed and cleaned but never used. Will replace the stuck drain plug and fill with gas. Installing an electric fuel pump and then will fire it up. Hope to take it for a spin on the private one mile driveway at the ranch. I will try to make a video of the cruise. Cool find. This car may turn out to be the bargain of the year.
    Dan

  16. #16
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    Three steps forward, two steps back. Got some clean up done and inspected the interior with pictures. Found this interesting feature.

    Then went to work on the drain plug in the gas tank. Drilled it out with no problem. Inserted the easy out and it was not an easy out job. Instead of the plug coming out the fitting in the tank spun. Tried to hold it but no such luck. So pulled the tank and will take it to my gas tank guy for some repairs and possibly some modifications too.

    Got the tires back from the tire shop. Pained the front wheels as they were ugly. The front wheels are 14" and the rears are 15". Decided to use what I had laying around to save money as they are only going to be on there until the car gets modified for racing. Looks kind cool and might even look better when its on the ground. Spent most of the day working on other stuff.

    More next week.
    Dan

  17. #17
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
    Sounds like an excellent car! Looks very good too. I never would have thought to put those two colors together but it looks very nice. Unique too.
    Looks Beautiful to me, there's nothing wrong with Yellow/Gold and Yellow.


    56 Power Hawk Gold _ Wht.jpg Here's a Yellow/Gold and White one.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverHawkDan View Post
    Yes, I used anti-seize copper on the axle shafts. It will come apart nicely the next time.

    Dan
    Dan, please don't do that. The hubs need to go onto the axle shafts dry. If it's slippery, the hub will go on further than it should and you'll ruin the axle, hub, and likely cause a failure when driving.

  19. #19
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    This is the first I have heard of this. I used grease when I was first building Studebakers back in the 60's and 70's. Never had a failure or problem and even drag rced and rally raced some cars with tapered axles with no issues. The axle is tapered and the axle is larger than the hole in the hub so the only way it could go on farther would be if the axle were damaged by running the hub loose and wearing out the end of the hub. I will take it back apart and do an inspection but I think I would have had a failure back in the day. If you saw how I raced and drove my cars you would know that if anyone should have had an axle failure it would have been me. The only axle failure was on my mom's Lark wagon after a curb strike. When I did a burn out while making a sharp left turn the axle snapped right behind the bearing. You could see that it had been cracked and when I stressed it the metal finally failed the rest of the way. But in the interest of being careful and because I want to know for myself I will do the inspection and take pictures and give a final word on this subject.
    Dan

  20. #20
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    No, this is a very WIDELY known Studebaker issue, NEVER put ANY type of Lubricant on the tapered Axles. If you properly tighten the Axle Nut to over 100 PSI the Hub will go too far onto the taper of the Axle.
    And since the Axle Key slot leaves a quite narrow margin on the outside of the Hub, it always breaks open, destroying the Hub and Drum Assembly.

    I have tossed MANY of them that someone did wrong, not following the Shop Manual instructions.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  21. #21
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    I will defer to those who have experience with this. I guess I was very lucky that i never had an issue in over ten years of doing it wrong. And those cars were really driven hard. So I will pull the drums and remove the anti-seize and put them back together right. Thanks for the heads up to all who warned me. Funny part is the car will have an 8 3/4 Mopar differential in it four months from now. But of course the person who buys this rear end will want to know it is done right.

    Got farther along today than I figured I would. Got the temporary gas tank set up and so I put it on the ground and took it for a short test drive. The at sunset decided to take a picture or two of the new look.



    Nice indeed. Enjoy.
    Dan

  22. #22
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    The rules call for us to use a Golden Hawk hood with the fiberglass overlay and rear fins. So we are looking to trade this ONE YEAR only hood for the hood and fins we need. The hood is in excellent shape. If a trade cannot be made we will be selling this hood to help pay for the parts we need. Anyone interested?
    PM me.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverHawkDan View Post
    The rules call for us to use a Golden Hawk hood with the fiberglass overlay and rear fins. So we are looking to trade this ONE YEAR only hood for the hood and fins we need. The hood is in excellent shape. If a trade cannot be made we will be selling this hood to help pay for the parts we need. Anyone interested?
    PM me.
    You may want to include the rear trunk lid as that is a year only lid too. So hood/trunk lid for hood/fins/trunk lid would be a great deal for someone doing an 1956 Hawk that has lots of more common sheet metal.

    Bob Miles
    Tucson AZ

  24. #24
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    Bob,

    Thanks for the info. Learn something every day when you work on Studebaker's.

  25. #25
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    Update: The plans have changed. Got a ruling from an official and it turns out that hood scoops are allowed for the class. Therefore there is no need to use a GH hood and overlay. So any standard Hawk hood will work. The plans are being modified as I type this and the new plans will be ready soon. The car will NOT be a GH clone. Don't want to have to deal with the drama people.

    That being said the hood and trunk lid and the chrome on top of the rear fenders and other parts of the car will be made available to purchase. Any deal on the hood and fenders will have to include replacement hood and trunk lid or at least a solid lead on them. So PM me if you are restoring one and want to top quality parts.
    Dan

  26. #26
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    OK I have the answer. I knew something about this axle thing was bothering me. After I quit racing Studebaker's (1972) I raced Mopars. Fast and very powerful Mopars. 3000 pound 600 plus horsepower Mopars. And the first five or so had tapered axles. Never had a single issue or breakage and ALL were assembled with wheel bearing grease or chassis grease lightly applied tot he axle and hub surface but NOT the key or key groove. My brother bill will be working on the rear brakes of our brothers car this weekend so I sent him the following post. This comes after I checked back on my notes from fifty years ago and looked at pictures of past cars. I have full confidence in this method and have years of much harder use then a Studebaker powered Studebaker will ever see to back up my confidence. You are welcome to do as you wish but I know this works and will continue to follow it.

    Bill,

    You will understand this when you get the drums off of Ed's car. The problem that the Studebaker guys talk about is not a lube problem. It is an installation error issue. The axle is tapered with a groove ground in it for the axle key. The groove was cut with a round stone so at the big end of the taper it is rounded (slanted). The hub is tapered to match. The axle at the end of the taper is too large for the hub to slide over. If you put the key in the groove before you install the drum/hub you run the risk that the key will slide all the way back to the rounded area and begin to rise up in the back. If this happens and you tighten the nut you will split the hub because it will not actually be tight, it will be in a bind. As you drive it the axle key and forces will begin destroying the hub and key and of course the axle. If you remember we raced Mopar's with the same set up and I never had a failure but I followed Norm Thatchers advice on installation. Here is the proper steps:

    First clean the hub, axle and groove of all rust and foreign matter. Sanding is best or I used my large bead hone for brake cylinders in the hub and then ran a file through the groove. Sand the axle tapered area and run a file through the groove to ensure it is completely clean. Clean everything with brake spray and let dry. Insert the key into the groove and check it for a tight fit. You should have to lightly tap the key into the groove. If you can get a .001 or .002 feeler gauge between the key and axle you need a new key and/or axle or both. Put a "thin film" of axle grease or better yet Anti-seize compound and the axle and hub surfaces and not the groove for the key. Keep it dry if possible but do not fret if some gets on the surface. Turn the axle until the key groove is facing up and install the drum groove up. Align the key grooves by eye and then install the key. Insert the key until about an eighth of an inch is sticking out. Install the washer and nut. I use anti-seize on the threads for the nut to get a correct torque reading. Tighten the nut to 150 foot pounds and then check for the alignment of the cotter key hole. If you need to turn the nut to align the hole and nut tighten only. Do NOT loosen to align. Install the cotter pin and you are good to go.

    If you use this method the key cannot travel too far up the groove and cause a bind. My Belvedere with the 426 tunnel ram wedge ran this type of axle for two years with slicks until I replaced it with a flanged axle differential. Run what you have. Never had an issue.
    Last edited by SilverHawkDan; 06-21-2017 at 01:22 PM.

  27. #27
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    Just so no one thinks I am blowing smoke about this here are a few pictures of tapered axle cars that I built. First in 1972 I built a 426 Plymouth Street Wedge with 11 to 1 compression and a 505 Isky roller cam that made just over 400 horsepower and just about 400 foot pounds of torque.

    Then I stuck it in this for freeway and dry lakes racing.


    Yes, your eyes are not deceiving you. That is a 1962 Chrysler Newport nine passenger station wagon weighing in at 5200 pounds. Got caught by airplane in Pearblossom in 1972 clocked at 130 mph. Lost my license for 45 days.
    In 1973 I built this engine.

    That is a 426 Max Wedge with too many modifications to list and making just shy of 800 horsepower. I stuck it in this.

    1966 Hemi Belvedere weighing in at 3600 pounds. Best ET 11.21. Best speed 141 mph. I bought the car less engine and transmission and I had the axle out of a 1964 Fury so that is what got put under it. Tapered axles and all. So I hope you can see why I have full confidence in my tapered axle assembly process. OK I'm done with my rant. Boy it sure brings back some great memories looking at those pictures. I met my wife when I was street racing the Belvedere. That was 40 years ago. Boy time flies.
    Last edited by SilverHawkDan; 06-21-2017 at 01:23 PM. Reason: Spelling correction

  28. #28
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    So I am looking for suggestions. I have never tried anything other than rebuilding or replacing a master cylinder so I am looking for some CASO help here. The master works great well maybe too great. While it stops fine and a nice firm pedal the residual check valve is sticking and as such after you apply the brakes about three times the brakes begin to drag. The pedal also goes higher and of course the brakes start holding the car back and if you keep going they will of course overheat. So has anyone ever tried some trick they heard about to fix this problem? The car will be getting completely taken apart in September so if I can avoid having to fight the rusty old bolts that hold this puppy tot he frame and the "sure to break of round off" brake lines it would be nice. Sprayed everything today with PB Blaster in preparation for the coming battle. So anyone fix one without removing it?
    Dan

  29. #29
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    Got the front seat out and the rubber floor mat removed along with the padding. The floors are rusty but not as bad as some I have seen. The good news is all of the worst spots will be getting roll bars put in place and new sheet metal installed.








    Next week the non op expires and it can be registered and then the aero tests can begin. Have the gauges and measuring sticks and everything else coming in next week. Going to let the engineer on the team prove his theories.

  30. #30
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    Would anyone take technical advice from someone that gets clocked at 130 MPH?
    Not only takes his own life at risk but may kill innocent others?
    Shopmanual instructions are to be ignored because the engineers that designed the tapered axles are morons!
    Last edited by rkapteyn; 07-14-2017 at 10:41 AM.

  31. #31
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    So I had the Bel Aire up to the shop today. Since the Power Hawk is also a 1956 model I though some side by side pictures would be interesting and cool. SO enjoy the pictures:





    So now you see why you don't see people racing the tri fives in land speed racing. Next to the Hawk that thing is a brick. Hope you enjoy the pictures.
    Dan

  32. #32
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    rkapteyn,

    Take it or not. Your choice. As for getting clocked at 130 mph I guess you were never 16 and stupid. Sorry you missed a great time to live and grow.

    The Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth shop manuals tell a different story for tapered axles. And since they built much more powerful and much heavier cars with a LOT more torque (think 392 Hemi) I think they knew what they were talking about. SO do what you feel comfortable doing. And I will do the same. We can agree to disagree and still love the brand.
    Dan

  33. #33
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    Same color and year Chebby I owned. First car except it was a 210 post. Still love the looks but a 53/54 Stude was the what I lusted after for quite a while.

    Bob
    , ,

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverHawkDan View Post

    The Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth shop manuals tell a different story for tapered axles.
    Dan
    That may be true, I don't know. But since you're working on a Studebaker, not a Mopar, following a Mopar shop manual may not be the best idea.

    I've seen a couple of rear tapered hubs with grease on them, and the issue is that the slipperiness makes it easy to overtorque the axle nut, which causes the hub to ride too far onto the axle shaft, and it splits the hub. May not be a problem on Mopars, but it certainly happens on Studes.
    Last edited by mbstude; 07-15-2017 at 11:27 AM.

  35. #35
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    [QUOTE=SilverHawkDan;1064262]rkapteyn,

    Take it or not. Your choice. As for getting clocked at 130 mph I guess you were never 16 and stupid. Sorry you missed a great time to live and grow.
    Dan, When I was that age I had just tuned up my GT Hawk and took it onto our Trans Canada highway nearby to see how it was performing. Well the cop that clocked me around 90 mph was all excited and stated I was the fastest guy he had ever clocked. I said he should have nailed me 30 seconds earlier as I would have been his all time record.
    Bill

  36. #36
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    mbstude,

    The thing is I raced Studebakers for eight years (1966 to 1974) and ALL of them had a thin layer of chassis grease on the axles. I never had a problem. But of course I was taught at age seven how to use a torque wrench so maybe that is why I never had an issue. So I guess we will see how things turn out with the Power Hawk. It is slated to go 75 mph by months end in some aero testing.
    Dan

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverHawkDan View Post
    mbstude,

    The thing is I raced Studebakers for eight years (1966 to 1974) and ALL of them had a thin layer of chassis grease on the axles. I never had a problem. But of course I was taught at age seven how to use a torque wrench so maybe that is why I never had an issue. So I guess we will see how things turn out with the Power Hawk. It is slated to go 75 mph by months end in some aero testing.
    Dan
    Okay Dan, my apologies for saying anything. Good luck with your project.
    Last edited by mbstude; 07-16-2017 at 06:55 AM.

  38. #38
    President Member Noxnabaker's Avatar
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    Just now I saw the Chrysler picture & though "-62 NewPort!", as we had a 4-door in the 90's as daily driver for some years & I can easily say it was the best car I ever had, not mint condition - just a rough driver, & even in the snow it was impresive for the size & weight + auto trans.
    (& when it came down to getting gas for cutting & welding on our first tug it swallowed 2 sets of tubes in the trunk easily & the car didn't even notice... )

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverHawkDan View Post
    My project for later this year followed me home yesterday. It was the most harrowing car pick up I have ever experienced. That says a lot as I have picked up over 300 cars in my lifetime. I don't have time to share the whole story right now but will do so soon. Here is the foundation for what will be a 200 mile per hour 1957 Golden Hawk clone.


    More about the project in the future. Oh and YES it will be Studebaker powered.


    Quote Originally Posted by SilverHawkDan View Post
    The rules call for us to use a Golden Hawk hood with the fiberglass overlay and rear fins. So we are looking to trade this ONE YEAR only hood for the hood and fins we need. The hood is in excellent shape. If a trade cannot be made we will be selling this hood to help pay for the parts we need. Anyone interested?
    PM me.


    Quote Originally Posted by SilverHawkDan View Post
    Update: The plans have changed. Got a ruling from an official and it turns out that hood scoops are allowed for the class. Therefore there is no need to use a GH hood and overlay. So any standard Hawk hood will work. << Why not keep the Power Hawk hood? >> The plans are being modified as I type this and the new plans will be ready soon. The car will NOT be a GH clone. << Why couldn't it j just be a 200 mile per hour 1956 Power Hawk? >> Don't want to have to deal with the drama people.

    That being said the hood and trunk lid and the chrome on top of the rear fenders and other parts of the car will be made available to purchase. Any deal on the hood and fenders will have to include replacement hood and trunk lid or at least a solid lead on them. So PM me if you are restoring one and want to top quality parts.
    Dan
    << Although the '56 hoods and trunk lids are scarce, the actual differences aren't all that dramatic. If you can use the pre - 1957 doors, with the scallops, I don't see why the hood and trunk lid won't work? If you need to add fins, they won't prevent you from doing that? Soo, Dan, what is it I'm missing? >>

    Mark
    Last edited by S2Deluxe; 07-16-2017 at 11:30 PM.

  40. #40
    President Member SilverHawkDan's Avatar
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    mbstude,

    No need to apologize as I like the comments and right now I am feeling the need to explore this further. I always love a challenge and this issue presents one. So this week when I pull the Hawk in the shop I am going to revisit this set up. It has been years since I worked on one and although I do remember doing the work I don't remember details. I am in no way saying I know it all or even that I know best. I just figure that if anyone should have had a failure it should have been me. I drove my cars hard and raced everything I ever owned so I was bound to have happen to me. Heck I had a lot of everything else happen to me. I broke a lot of stuff in my younger and crazier days. So I will keep everyone posted as I explore this further.

    Mark,

    The original plan was to run a Golden Hawk as I think they are great looking cars and of course came with a factory supercharger so it was a natural in my opinion. But since some people whined about using a coupe instead of a hardtop we took a different path. Since this car is going to be a race car I am offering the one year only hood and deck lid so that someone who is restoring one can have the correct parts. The car will be logged in the book as a 1957 Silver Hawk for the sake of the rules but we are going to paint Flight Hawk on deck lid as a tribute to the guy I am building it for. Sorry for the confusion but sometimes your plans get set sideways by someone who would rather be petty then encourage you to go out and break their record. Saddest part is the guy is a Stude guy. Oh well. Look for more in the coming months as this project moves forward.
    Dan

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