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1949 2R5 Drive Notes

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  • #16
    I'd pay real non-CASO money to see a 169 ci engine go 90 mph with a 1950 stock, truck R/A....and no OD.... I'd check the shifter rods for proper adjustment (best with 2 people) and consider the engine mount rubber discs unless known life... I just replaced my 4 rubber engine discs (mounts), I had to shorten the rods near 1 inch for adjustment.... I tie the shifter arm in neutral to a steering wheel spoke.... so far , so good.....GL

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    • #17
      WRT the trans grinding on the 3rd to 2nd downshift: The Warner 3-speed transmissions in Stude trucks do have synchromesh in 2nd and 3rd, but the gears are square cut and don't mesh as easily as the beveled gears in car transmissions. You might try double-clutching on downshifts -- I have found that helps a lot, and also tends to make the synchros last longer. After a while, it becomes second nature -- so much so that I still double clutch when downshifting my modern cars.
      Skip Lackie

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      • #18
        Hey Jack the truck no longer goes that fast, but If you'll pay the fine, I'll get it to 70 and call the kops on myself.....

        On Drill (Military) weekends before i retired, I would drive it on I24 into Nashville. it was slow taking off, but could keep up (barely) with the throttle bricked. Interstate 24 is 70mph limit and most drove 75 to 80. My biggest problem is stopping. Had a panic ensued, I'd probably be dead.

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        • #19
          Here is an update. I set the timing to the mark as directed in post #2. The truck does seem to run smoother, but the premium fuel that I now have in it may be also having an effect.

          I am looking at the bell housing alignment procedure that is shown in the repair manual. Based on knowing that my engine is not original, I want to make that check. The procedure looks easy, but calls for the use of clutch aligning gage KMO No. J2045. Is there a work around for not having that?

          Thanks.

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          • #20
            I took a break from this investigation to install a hill holder. That is finished, so I will return to making other improvements. It starts and runs well, which seems to continue to improve as I drive it more often. It has a nice sound at idle at the tail pipe with no misses. It has a hesitation at acceleration for me to find. I have enjoyed driving it, mostly on short errands. I noted in my original post that the truck will not exceed 20 mph in second gear. I researched that further. It also will not go above around 11 in first, and it will not go above around 37 in third. I looked up the gear ratios for 1st gear, 2nd gear, and the differential. Doing the math shows all three of those speed limits to be around 2100 rpm. I believe I have adequate fuel flow from the fuel pump. The truck does not balk when I press the accelerator to either maintain speed as I go over an overpass or to accelerate in 3rd gear from something less than 37 mph. Attempting to go above any of these three speed limits gives the feeling that the engine is not really running above that rpm. It does not buck like it is lacking fuel or spark; it just feels like it does not run beyond that limit but picks up below it.

            Does anyone have advice on where to look for this problem? Thanks.

            I am working myself up to taking the transmission off during the winter to check the bell housing alignment. I will start another posting for my questions on that.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Mrs K Corbin View Post
              Hey Jack the truck no longer goes that fast, but If you'll pay the fine, I'll get it to 70 and call the kops on myself.....

              On Drill (Military) weekends before i retired, I would drive it on I24 into Nashville. it was slow taking off, but could keep up (barely) with the throttle bricked. Interstate 24 is 70mph limit and most drove 75 to 80. My biggest problem is stopping. Had a panic ensued, I'd probably be dead.
              I had a 49 Stude pickup once, and it would hit a flat 100 MPH, and cruise all day at 70. But I had installed a four barrel carb and dual exhaust. It may have done more on top end with a performance cam, because power seemed to hit a wall at around 10,000 RPM.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                I had a 49 Stude pickup once, and it would hit a flat 100 MPH, and cruise all day at 70. But I had installed a four barrel carb and dual exhaust. It may have done more on top end with a performance cam, because power seemed to hit a wall at around 10,000 RPM.
                Good one. I'm sure a 4 barrel would make a 169 engine run better.
                My son-in law could make a stock 49 truck go over 100 MPH easily, but it would only work once. He would have to roll it out of the back of the C-130 he was unloading.
                Attached Files
                "In the heart of Arkansas."
                Searcy, Arkansas
                1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                1952 2R pickup

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                • #23
                  I am still working slowly on this truck. I did none of the things I thought I might do last year with the transmission. Maybe next year. I like driving it much more than I like working on it. Overlooking that the engine will not go faster than 2100 rpm, which is around 37 mph (on my speedometer) in 3rd gear, I plan to look at three things that might be making the truck shake at 35 mph. 1. The date code 1977 tires. I will buy some someday, but I have to figure out which direction to go for the new ones. 2. One king pin is loose. Not sure of the measurement, but way too much on one of them. The other one has no noticeable play. It seems odd that one would have no play when the other one is way too loose. I have to learn how these king pins work. 3. I can see maybe 1/32 inch of side to side play on the steering box shaft that connects to the pitman arm. I have another steering box that seems to be in very good condition. I am cleaning, painting, and changing seal and gasket in it now as my current project. I plan to switch them when the spare is reassembled. If I fix the shaking problem, then I will be more anxious to figure out how to get it to drive faster than 37 mph.

                  I think I rule out fuel and spark for the 37 mph limit. In my area overpasses or bridges over navigable rivers are the only grades. There is one within my very short driving radius. It has a stoplight at each end. On the rare occasions I get a green light, pressing the accelerator a little easily keeps the truck going at its 37 mph maximum. When I have to stop for a light, then once I am in 2nd at 20 mph, then I have to shift to 3rd. The truck growls at having to accelerate from 20 mph uphill in high gear, but it does do it, and the growling ends at around 25 mph. Very embarrassing. I feel I should cover the tailgate letters when I plan to drive over that bridge, so I don't give the brand a bad impression.

                  I still enjoy driving it. It idles like a sewing machine and runs smoothly. When I run out of other things to fix I will think about taking the engine apart to look at what is in there.

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                  • #24
                    Robert, it almost sounds like a blocked exhaust. I've seen things from animal nests to bent exhaust pipes stop the free flow of exhaust.

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                    • #25
                      I like that thought. It is certainly possible. When the starter drive disintegrated I discovered the bell housing to be full of acorn shells when I removed the starter, so there is a precedent. I will have a look. Thanks.

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                      • #26
                        Look to see if any of the oil bath air cleaner has dropped some of it's insulation into/near the carb throat. My accelerator rod keeps slipping on the carb throttle shaft. Its just worn. A correction from foot pedal to pivot arm(s) to carb shaft is in order keeping with OD kickdown lever position too....

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                        • #27
                          Robert, enjoying this thread. to check for exh. blockage remove air cleaner, start engine, get under hood and momentarily hold throttle wide open. if you see a faint cloud of fuel above carb your exh is partially blocked. Luck Doofus

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                          • #28
                            As I have been reading all the symptoms and comments, my thought was the same as Tom's in post #24. Especially if you've found acorns and nest material in other places on the truck. Those little critters could easily have climbed into the tailpipe and filled the muffler or other parts of the exhaust with that type of material causing a blockage or partial blockage somewhere in that exhaust system. Should be an easy check by just removing the exhaust pipe from the manifold, wire it up so it doesn't drag on the ground and take a short loud trip to see if you have more power. Hope this helps, Bill.

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                            • #29
                              Thanks for the further recommendations. As always, it may be a couple of weeks before I can look fully into them. Those in posts #26 and #27 I will get done sooner. I agree with the suggestion in post #28, but I am very afraid to touch any bolt on this exhaust system. I fear weeks of non-driving time due to breaking a stud, but maybe not. The 70 year old bolts do seem to unbolt nicely on this truck.

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                              • #30
                                Robert, will the engine rev freely when not pulling truck? you could have tired valve springs! it's happened before! Luck Doofus

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