Just delivered today: 1963 GT Hawk. Started right up and ran fine. Got about 4 miles and it quit. Was going about 60mph. Would re start but not stay running. Had to have it towed. The seller had told me he put a new braided fuel line on before loading the car on the transport truck. I don't know if he replaced it all or just part of it. (it was evening when I got it home) Told me he replaced it because it was "dry" which I assume meant brittle. He had also told me he had replaced the fuel pump in the last few years. I do not believe it has been driven much since that time. (it had an electric pump on it when he got it and he put it back to original.) Things I have noticed: When it came off the truck I could see the fuel filter was full. Now it appears to be almost empty. I think I sense a faint smell of gas in the oil. It has a new looking Eddlebrock 4 barrel carb. Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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I'd first check to insure there is fuel in the tank, but it sounds like the fuel pump is going bad, and pumping gas into the oil. I'd change the oil and filter, and install an electric pump. Remove the OEM pump and place a cover plate over the mount hole. -
I think Joe has a good approach to finding the problem. Ask me how I know.Comment
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how do you know?Comment
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In this case i would follow Mr Halls sage advice. this has happened twice to new purchases with mechanical fuel pumps and it helps to buy non ethanol laced fuel.Luck DoofusComment
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I honestly don't get this advice from so many to abandon the stock fuel pumps for an electric. The car was designed with a mechanical pump, why not fix the problem? We are in the hobby to preserve are we not? I've been playing with antiques for 40 years, never used electric pumps. My 57 Commander 259 sits 6-8 weeks at a time and fires up in 10 seconds.......I check with a stopwatch.Comment
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If the car has been sitting for a long period before being purchased, the gas itself might be the issue also. The possibility of a gummed up, crap filled tank has the line plugged or restricted. That could also have the carb plugged up if the filter is letting small particles through. Following Joe's suggestions is a good idea. An electric pump will reduce the possibility for vapor lock, but a mechanical pump rebuilt with modern innerds should be ok also. If you go with a mechanical, I'd get one from Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker, he's a real good guy. BillComment
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Remove the rubber line going to the carb and place it in a container. Have someone crank the engine over and observe the fuel flow. If it is a weak steam coming from the pump it may be the pump. Then disconnect the line going to the pump from the fuel tank . Use a syphon to draw fuel from the tank into your container. If there is an interrupted flow of fuel then you have either a restricted line from the tank or a restriction of gunk at the tanks outlet. Then blow through the line to see if you can hear the fuel gurgle in the tank. Then syphon again. If the flow improves then you've got to flush the gunk from the tank as mentioned in a previous post. I've used this method to help narrow things down. Good luckComment
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This is not meant to dissuade you from fuel problem search, but thought that I would muddy the waters a bit. I own a 1963 Lark Daytona htp. Must be ten or fifteen years ago, the car began to stall at freeway speed. I learned that I could quickly shift the automatic selector into neutral and restart with the key. Over time the problem just got worse, until my trusty tour car became much less trustworthy. Turned out to be a worn Presto-light (sp) distributor. I installed a NOS distributor and used a Ford, internally resisted coil, to get rid of the resister wire, and the problem went away.Comment
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Even though I could rebuild myself, the drill I follow when getting a car is send the fuel pump and carb to Dave Thibeault. Even if the car is running when I got it, it's what I do.
Cheap insurance. I replace fuel lines and hoses as necessary, making sure the tank is clean.Last edited by tim333; 05-13-2017, 09:51 AM.Comment
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I had much the same problem and vapor lock several times on a 2,000 mile trip. Spent a lot of money with shops that "fixed" it but didn't. Once I got an electric fuel pump on it, blocked off the original, and put a pressure regulator and 2nd filter just before the carb I haven't had the problem. The old pumps were obviously good when you had real gas but this new stuff just won't work. I'm still thinking about installing a return line just to be extra safe.Comment
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Normally I would be saying the same thing, as I like to keep things as the factory built them, but today's gas just boils too easily, so for me for the time being, an electric pump is the best way to keep my car on the road. I've been adding heat shields around the carb and fuel lines, and this helps, but hasn't totally solved the problem yet. I'd like to go back to my mechanical pump, but first comes reliability.Originally posted by tim333 View PostComment
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I have, do, and would follow T.J. Lavallee's excellent post #8 before spending 10 seconds or 10 dollars replacing parts. I also catch the fuel in a clear clean container, so after the delivered volume test, I can check for Flotsam, Jetsam, clarity, and multiphase. There should be none. Except for the clarity. There should be LOTS of that. Adding a splash of isopropyl dry gas to the sample sometimes results in a marked improvement in clarity or even causes water to drop out of suspension, which indicates it really did not "look" as good as it should.Comment
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Originally posted by ndynis View Post
Would you post the brand name of the pressure regulator and source? I need to install such on two cars.
TIAComment
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My experience with today's gas.I bought a China made fuel gage and sender on e bay and installed when I removed it a couple of weeks later the terminal post was loose because the gas had softened up the plastic or rubber insulating block that is between the cover plate and L shaped mounting strap.Guess the price was to good to be true.
HawkownerComment
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