1964 Daytona Hardtop Rescue Effort

[r1lark]

Success!! Started right up, good oil pressure, temperature stayed within acceptable range, no odd or worrisome noises except for a very noisy alternator. Got the dwell, idle, and timing set. Hopefully I have a rebuilt alternator in inventory.

Video late tonight!

[53k]

My wife got a big chuckle from your check list- "Cleaned front seat so wife would sit in it and help with brake bleeding :-)" We have been there and done that and she won't forget the dirty seat.

[truckguy]

r1lark Yes, those were the days when buckets were a serious disadvantage! :-)

[r1lark]

Well, we had some video production issues here at TobyFilms.

But, finally got the 'First Start' video pretty much straightened out. Not sure why the text 'pages' that are added seem to lose some of the wording, but we will figure that out.

Here is a link to the 'First Start' video if you want to watch it full screen on YouTube: https://youtu.be/T-_Kdtdtf2c

And here is the embedded video. Remember, comments are always welcome especially corrections, improvements, etc. And consider subscribing to the r1lark YouTube Channel.

[r1lark]

Been a while since an update, but trust me that work has progressed! The car is running and driving, but that has identified a few issues, the biggest one being the rear axle and u-joint issues. Will try to get a video up soon, but here is an update with some pictures.

The rear axle in the car was a 3.07:1 Model 27. When I replaced the pinion seal, it was obvious that the pinion bearing preload was messed up, because when the yoke nut was retorqued it locked the pinion up. Temporary fix was to loosen the nut until the pinion rotated fairly smoothly . Another issue, found while adjusting the brakes, was that one of the axles is bent. Also, one of the u-joints on the current driveshaft is making a noise, and don't want to waste a new u-joint on a driveshaft that will have to be replaced eventually when the rear axle is upgraded. I had always planned on putting a Model 44 axle in at some point, but decided to go ahead and do that now. So, a 3.31:1 ratio Twin Traction rear axle is being readied to put in, the correct length driveshaft with new u-joints, a Super Lark rear sway bar, and new rear springs. Stay tuned for this!

Some of the work since last update...............

• Installed six (6) hood bumpers on inner fender edges, adjusted front corner hood bumpers, and adjusted hood latch dovetail
• Replaced very noisy later ('65/'66?) alternator with correct rebuilt ALK5001 Prestolite
• Lubricated shifter
• Cleaned 4-speed shifter tower & coated
• Installed shifter tower, shifter boot, and boot retainer
• Cleaned and lubricated emergency brake cables
• Repaired exhaust leak
• Replaced emergency brake pedal assembly (the handle was broken off)
• Adjusted emergency brake cable
• Installed Ford 6" wheels and almost new tires
• Adjusted emergency brake cable
• Moved temp gage and oil pressure gage to inside car
• Cleaned engine compartment
• Removed axles from Model 44 rear axle; one has bad keyway and will be replaced by good spare
• Cleaned Model 44 rear axle and primed
• Cleaned axles and checked runnout - both are ok
• Replaced pinion seal in Model 44 axle, found piece broken out of slinger so replaced with NOS slinger
• Installed new inner rear axle seals in Model 44 axle
• Installed new wheel bearings on Model 44 axles

Here are a few pictures:

Nasty old noisy alternator and rebuilt alternator (ain't it pretty? )


New wheels/decent tires. They are 6" Ford Ranger wheels, and the Stude wheelcovers fit them fine. Found four decent '64 wheelcovers and installed also, but you will have to wait until the next video to see them:


Original e-brake pedal setup, and replacement:


Model 44 3.31:1 Twin Traction, cleaned and primed, and axles:


Rear axle up on sawhorses inside (because of rain forecast the next couple of days, decided to do pinion seal replacement, axle install, rear cover gasket replacement, and end play adjustment inside). Note home made pinion yoke holder.


Got out the various NOS springs to see what I have that will work in this car. May go with the 1560439 "cop car" (P3) springs but waiting for advice from Jim Pepper before final decision. The cop car spring is the 2nd from bottom:


Finally, I've been looking at what wheels to use. Thinking maybe the more modern Torq-Thrusts as shown in the following picture on the silver car, or maybe vintage style Torq-Thrust D wheels as shown on the black Daytona. Opinions??

[Corvanti]

Great job!!!

IMHO, i'd go with the vintage Torq-Thrusts.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

One thing I haven't heard mentioned, when priming the oil system, the pump must be turned counterclockwise.

[r1lark]

A progress update on the '64 Daytona................

Progress has been slower, since after being off for pretty much 6 weeks, I have had to work the last two weeks . The Model 44 rear axle is ready to reinstall. Had to replace one axle shaft with a good used one, due to damage to the keyway. New axle bearings/races, new inner and outer seals, new pinion seal, and of course a new cover gasket. The V8 brakes were transferred over from the Model 27 axle.

Got the old Model 27 rear end and springs out, but do have to replace the rear spring bushings in the frame rails. Still have not decided what springs to use in the back. Leaning towards the 1560439 springs which are heavy duty Wagonaire springs, but are very similar to the Super Lark Full Package rear spring from the standpoint of number of leaves, thicknesses, etc. Has anyone used these springs on a Daytona hardtop?

Dug out the Model 44 spring plates that have the tabs for the rear sway bar, and some of the mounting pieces for the sway bar, to blast and prime/paint.

HELP, NEEDED FOR THIS PROJECT: Looking for a decent '64 or '64 Lark dashboard. A few cracks are ok (ie, does not need to be "show" quality), prefer red but will consider any color. Condition of the gauges and gauge panel is not a deal breaker. Looking for one within reasonable driving distance of North Carolina, since safely packaging one of these dashes for shipping is a bear.

Following are a few pics...............

One of the axles installed, new bearing/race. Had an issue getting this side in, the splines of the Twin Traction unit and the side gear got out of alignment, and had to make a quickie tool to be able to turn the axle while holding the input pinion stationary. You have to overcome the Twin Traction clutches to be able to do this.


Using a bare rear hub to properly locate/center the outer axle seal while tightening the nuts:


Checking rear axle end play:


Backing plates/brakes installed, brake line on, rear axle painted:


Dug out some of the parts for the rear sway bar setup; the spring plates have and extra tab welded to them to mount the sway bar links. Got to get these blasted/primed/painted:

[53k]

A progress update on the '64 Daytona................

Leaning towards the 1560439 springs which are heavy duty Wagonaire springs, but are very similar to the Super Lark Full Package rear spring from the standpoint of number of leaves, thicknesses, etc. Has anyone used these springs on a Daytona hardtop?

I installed a set of the six-leaf Wagonaire springs on the '64 Daytona convertible I had. They replaced the standard four-leaf springs. In my opinion the six-leafs made a drastic improvement in both ride and handling and they brought the ride height up to where it should have been. I didn't change the front springs, but added Jon Myer's front spring spacers and they leveled the car nicely.

[r1lark]

I installed a set of the six-leaf Wagonaire springs on the '64 Daytona convertible I had. They replaced the standard four-leaf springs. In my opinion the six-leafs made a drastic improvement in both ride and handling and they brought the ride height up to where it should have been. I didn't change the front springs, but added Jon Myer's front spring spacers and they leveled the car nicely.

Thanks Paul, that's good info.

I did compare the leaf thicknesses and lengths between the p/n 1561277 Super Lark High Perf Package spring and the p/n 1560439 HD station wagon spring, and the results are tabulated below. The springs seem quite close, but the HD station wagon springs have slightly shorter #2 thru #6 leaves, and the #5 leaf is thinner. (Note that I didn't disassemble the springs to get these measurements, and getting the leaf thicknesses was tough on some of the springs - had to shove thin shimstock between the leaves and measure between this.) I'm thinking (hoping ) that the HD station wagon spring will be pretty close to the Super Lark springs. If anyone is familiar with spring design and wants to comment, please do!

Here is the table, first column is the Super Lark Full Package spring, and the second column is the HD station wagon spring:

[r1lark]

Rear Spring Shackle Bushing Replacement

Can't believe it's been over 2 months since the last update on the 1964 Daytona rescue. But, while I've been quite lax in updating, rest assured that work has steadily progressed. The car is drivable and insured/licensed now, hurray!

Still have several videos to post, so let's get this thread up-to-date. Following is a short video covering the replacement of the rear spring shackle bushing replacements. These are the bushings in the frame, that a lot of people fuss and cuss about. Follow along as we get some new fresh bushings in there.

If you want to view the video full screen, go here: https://youtu.be/TXa7EErovj8 Not sure why when a YouTube video is embedded on the forum, the viewer is blocked from viewing the video full screen?? Anyone know a way around this?

EDIT: The embedded video has been removed so this thread will load quicker. Please go to the link posted just above to view video #9.

Hope you enjoy it, and comments/questions are welcomed. And subscribe to my YouTube channel if you like these videos!

[r1lark]

Rear Springs and Axle Installation Part 1................

Installing the rear springs and 3.31:1 Twin Traction axle.

Go here if you want to watch the video full screen: https://youtu.be/sL9P_4UDwI8

EDIT: The embedded video has been removed so this thread will load quicker. Please go to the link posted just above to view video #10.

[r1lark]

Rear Springs & Axle Installation - Part 2

Finishing up on the installation of the new HD rear springs, the 3.31:1 ratio Twin Traction Dana 44, and driveshaft. The driveshaft had to change since the Model 44 takes a shorter driveshaft. Looking at the lengths in the Parts Manual, a C-K with auto driveshaft is the right length, and I had one that used the Mechanics type u-joints. Would have preferred Spicer type u-joints, but the 4-speed slip yoke was a Mechanics type, so that's what I had to stay with.

If you want to watch the video full screen, go here:. https://youtu.be/m9fFpG3Xh6k

EDIT: The embedded video has been removed so this thread will load quicker. Please go to the link posted just above to view video #11.

Hope you enjoy the video. Another new one soon!

[r1lark]

Wiring Harness Swap

The original wiring harness has some major issues that cannot be properly fixed while still in the car. So.......I've decided to swap in a good wiring harness from a '64 F-body (two door). This video shows the 'disassembled' state.

The next video in a week or so will show the current running/driving status of the car.

If you like to watch the videos full screen, go here: https://youtu.be/C6T3JOsFH04

EDIT: The embedded video has been removed so this thread will load quicker. Please go to the link posted just above to view video #12.

Hope you enjoy this one. As always, comments and suggestions are welcomed, and consider subscribing to my YouTube channel so you don't miss any future videos.

[Jessie J.]

Love this thread. I also own a '64 Daytona HT, presently in similar condition to what you began with, although mine is Strato-Blue with 259 and 3 speed o/d, original and unmodified, right down to the original 1963 maroon plug wires. Engine runs fine but the brakes are now down from long storage. Been gathering parts for years but of because ongoing business and travel obligations I have been reluctant to disassemble what I might not have time to reassemble. And so it sits.