Transmission / Overdrive: How much would you do to freshen up a transmission?

[52-fan]

This question is for some of you who have experience working on 3 speed overdrive transmissions. The overdrive in my 52 doesn't work and I have another transmission I can swap in. I was planning to install new gaskets and seals in the replacement trans. In an otherwise working transmission would you replace the input shaft bearing or any other parts before the swap?

[Mike Van Veghten]

If you plan on driving the car more than just around the block...and don't really want to get stuck somewhere...fix what needs fixen.
Take it apart, clean everything, replace what needs...replacing, put it back together and stick it in your car...and have no trans. worries.

Mike

[JoeHall]

For anything other than a T85/89, I'd do the following: Replace the input shaft case bearing and needle bearings, the needle bearings in the cluster gear, and inspect the 2nd/3rd gear synchronizer rings closely. If they do not have a neat, "doghouse" profile, replace them. Inspect all gear edges on the mainshaft and cluster-gear closely for broken teeth, or excessively ground off tooth edges, and replace if needed. Replace the rear seal, unless its an original rawhide one. If rawhide, its worth a try, and they often out last the transmission. If need be later, you can replace that by only removing the driveshaft.

Other than the above, I'd inspect everything closely, and replace anything suspect, i.e. rear shaft bearing. I'd also remove and wipe the solenoid clean, and replace its oil seal. Ditto for the governor. Of course new, paper gaskets, as you already mentioned. If you can't find those, they are easy enough to make.

For a T85/89, I'd just pop the side cover and eyeball everything, paying particular attention to the synchronizer rings. If it looked OK and did not smell of burned oil, I'd slap the side cover back on and install it.

[doofus]

Figure out why OD wont work and save the hassle. Luck Doofus

[jclary]

Figure out why OD wont work and save the hassle. Luck Doofus

Makes perfectly good sense to me. In addition to the shop manual, there is a separate publication that covers the B/W overdrive transmission. I would place the rear axle on jack stands, chock the front wheels, and do all the troubleshooting, and diagnosis with the wheels off the ground. Just follow all the recommended checks in logical order. Electrical checks include the relay fuse, relay contacts, to the governor, and solenoid. On the mechanical part, make sure the cable is adjusted so that when the overdrive handle is pushed in, it shifts the linkage on the transmission far enough to really engage the overdrive unit. Oh...and make sure the "kick-down" switch is properly wired. All electrical connections must be corrosion free.

[52-fan]

Makes perfectly good sense to me. In addition to the shop manual, there is a separate publication that covers the B/W overdrive transmission. I would place the rear axle on jack stands, chock the front wheels, and do all the troubleshooting, and diagnosis with the wheels off the ground. Just follow all the recommended checks in logical order. Electrical checks include the relay fuse, relay contacts, to the governor, and solenoid. On the mechanical part, make sure the cable is adjusted so that when the overdrive handle is pushed in, it shifts the linkage on the transmission far enough to really engage the overdrive unit. Oh...and make sure the "kick-down" switch is properly wired. All electrical connections must be corrosion free.

I may swap the solenoids and try it that way. The car came to me modified and has a cable throttle with no provision for the stock kick down parts. The solenoid is wired to a switch on the dash and will click when the switch is engaged, but the od doesn't engage. I have checked the cable and even ran new wires, but it won't go.
The trans itself shifts well except for sometimes being a little balky going into high gear. The shift linkage is adjusted and usually the shifts work fine. This particular transmission was once in Tom Covington's Stude roadster.
I actually have two more T86 transmissions with overdrive and was going to prep one that I got with an engine I bought a few years ago from a forum member. The engine came out of a running driving car he parted out because of rust issues. I was hoping to just get everything ready and just do a quick swap.
I have been toying with the idea of attending the Studebaker drags in late May and need the overdrive for the 8 hour drive to Bean Blossom. The car now has 3:42 gears and will drive fine, but I don't like the RPMs at anything over 55MPH or so.

[jclary]

I am working (in bits & fits) on a V8 to install in my 1/2 ton truck. I have an overdrive for the V8. A week ago, I got around to removing the cover on the transmission. If I remember correctly what, I was told by another member here, the shape of the gears indicate it has "car" gears. That should be better for highway cruising. The transmission looks great, 'cept for the stinky old gear oil. I'm thinking of adding some kerosene and flushing before replacing the transmission oil. Also, I've thought about rigging up a small motor/engine with some sort of belt (haven't figured that out yet) to give it some slow (unloaded) rotation while cleaning.

Heck...I might even use some sort of hand crank to turn it. Perhaps figure out how to make it churn some ice cream for incentive.

[52-fan]

You probably don't want to turn it much with the kerosene in there. The dirt or chips that may be in the old lube may work their way to the bearings. Of course, if the solvent is below the level of the gears you could wash the debris away from the gears/bearing area.

[Greenstude]

One more thing to check if the solenoid clicks and nothing happens. Are the 2 wires on the transmission reversed? If so, the solenoid will be trying to go in the wrong direction. That happened on my car when a new wiring harness was installed. You may have a 2-minute repair job.

[52-fan]

One more thing to check if the solenoid clicks and nothing happens. Are the 2 wires on the transmission reversed? If so, the solenoid will be trying to go in the wrong direction. That happened on my car when a new wiring harness was installed. You may have a 2-minute repair job.

Good to know. I think I followed the Lark diagram, but I may have just hooked it back up like it was.

[PackardV8]

I am working (in bits & fits) on a V8 to install in my 1/2 ton truck. I have an overdrive for the V8. A week ago, I got around to removing the cover on the transmission. If I remember correctly what, I was told by another member here, the shape of the gears indicate it has "car" gears. That should be better for highway cruising.

Third gear and third overdrive, thus the highway RPM are the same for both car and truck transmissions. Only difference is in first and second.

jack vines

[52-fan]

Since my last post I have pulled the solenoid and cleaned the insides. It was oil fouled, but after cleaning it bench tested good. I could not get the governor off due to not having a proper wrench, but I removed the end plate and cleaned the points. I also rechecked the lockout cable for proper travel. Still no overdrive.
As I recall, on both my 52 Champion and 59 Lark, when the lock out handle was pushed in the cars would coast with no engine braking even at low speed. Since this transmission will not allow the car to coast without the engine braking does it have an internal problem? Am I overlooking something?

[JoeHall]

Since my last post I have pulled the solenoid and cleaned the insides. It was oil fouled, but after cleaning it bench tested good. I could not get the governor off due to not having a proper wrench, but I removed the end plate and cleaned the points. I also rechecked the lockout cable for proper travel. Still no overdrive.
As I recall, on both my 52 Champion and 59 Lark, when the lock out handle was pushed in the cars would coast with no engine braking even at low speed. Since this transmission will not allow the car to coast without the engine braking does it have an internal problem? Am I overlooking something?

Sounds like it is still in conventional drive. When you push the OD cable in, it switches from conventional to overdrive operation. If you have pushed the handle in already, look at the transmission to insure the cable is doing its job; it should move the transmission lever all the way to where it hits mechanical interference on the transmission case.

[52-fan]

Sounds like it is still in conventional drive. When you push the OD cable in, it switches from conventional to overdrive operation. If you have pushed the handle in already, look at the transmission to insure the cable is doing its job; it should move the transmission lever all the way to where it hits mechanical interference on the transmission case.

I had someone move the cable while I was under the car. The lever moves all the way against the tab made onto the trans case. I am thinking something is amiss inside. I was going to drive my car to Nashville, IN for the Studebaker drags, but not unless I can get the overdrive working.

[Tom Bredehoft]

when the lock out handle was pushed in the cars would coast with no engine braking

This is normal operation.

As you increase speed, and pass 30, take your foot off the gas for a couple of seconds. The engine should start pulling the speed down, engine braking. This is IN OVERDRIVE. Whenyou give it gas it will take off, but not with the snap it had before. Before shifting it was capable of being in overdrive, with no engine braking, just waiting for enough speed.

Overdrive seems to be the most mis-understood part of Studebakerdom.