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R2GTHAWK
01-25-2007, 05:42 PM
I'm starting to put things back together with the underhood detailing
of my 1963 R-2 Hawk and I have a few more questions.
I am using composite intake manifold gaskets and I would like
to know if I should use gasket sealer on one side, both sides,
or not at all.
Does the condenser that mounts on the coil bracket connect to the
positive side or negative side of the coil?
I am using the thick triple carb gasket and I would like to
know if there are any other "tricks" that I should use to keep
excess heat away from the carb.
Thanks for all of your assistance, it really helps!!!!:D

JDP
01-25-2007, 05:49 PM
No sealer, condenser to positive, thick gasket is all you need unless you want to block the heat riser port and use a electric choke.


64 Commander 2 dr.
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT Hawk 4 speed
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

gordr
01-25-2007, 05:56 PM
quote:Originally posted by R2GTHAWK

I'm starting to put things back together with the underhood detailing
of my 1963 R-2 Hawk and I have a few more questions.
I am using composite intake manifold gaskets and I would like
to know if I should use gasket sealer on one side, both sides,
or not at all.
Does the condenser that mounts on the coil bracket connect to the
positive side or negative side of the coil?
I am using the thick triple carb gasket and I would like to
know if there are any other "tricks" that I should use to keep
excess heat away from the carb.
Thanks for all of your assistance, it really helps!!!!:D


Intake manifold gaskets on a Stude don't have to resist fluids or high pressure. Use sealer on the gaskets, and you have a real mess to clean up if you ever take it apart. I'd suggest giving both sides of the composite gasket a light coat of heavy grease, like wheel bearing grease. It will seal pinhole leaks, etc., and helps the gasket slide and conform to the surfaces as the manifold is torqued down. When time comes to remove it, the gasket should not be badly stuck to either part.

The condenser on the coil bracket is an ignition noise suppressor,and should be connected to the (+) side of the coil.

Some of the gasket kits contain restrictor plates for the crossover passage; using them would definitely make the manifold run cooler, but the release of the automatic choke would be delayed, and that's not good.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

DEEPNHOCK
01-26-2007, 09:52 AM
I recommend that you use Permatex Ultra copper gasket sealant on the intake manifold side only. Just a small, SMALL film around the intake ports. Place the intake gasket onto the upside down intake manifold and allow to set up overnight. When you are ready to mount the manifold to the head, smear a light film of grease on the intake surface of the heads. This does two thinks. It allows you to move the manifold around a tad to get the bolts to line up (and the gaskets won't move)....and it will allow the intake to come off later 'with' the gasket still in place, and the gasket will very likely be useable. An old drag racer trick that works great on Stude's. If you are running some thin 'block off plates', they should be put on the heat crossover port on the head side of the gasket (using the same Permatex Ultra Copper and overnight set up).
Remember...if you are running block off plates, you must remove, gut, or wire open your heat riser valve on the RHS exhaust manifold.
BTDT a dozenteen times....
Hope the info helps.
Jeff



quote:Originally posted by R2GTHAWK

I'm starting to put things back together with the underhood detailing
of my 1963 R-2 Hawk and I have a few more questions.
I am using composite intake manifold gaskets and I would like
to know if I should use gasket sealer on one side, both sides,
or not at all.
Does the condenser that mounts on the coil bracket connect to the
positive side or negative side of the coil?
I am using the thick triple carb gasket and I would like to
know if there are any other "tricks" that I should use to keep
excess heat away from the carb.
Thanks for all of your assistance, it really helps!!!!:D


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

Mike
01-26-2007, 12:37 PM
The original Stude intake manifold gaskets for R2 engines had a restricted heat riser passage on the driver's side. The round hole looks like it's about 3/4 of an inch across. The passenger side was wide open; as were both sides on an R1. That left plenty of room for the choke stove tube. Since it extended into the exhaust passage in the head, it got plenty of heat. R2's used the standard heat riser control valve.
The different part #'s for R2 intake manifold gaskets are listed in the Avanti parts book, and the Jet Thrust parts supplement. There's a picture and explanation in the SAE "Avanti" paper. The special gasket was supposed to be stainless steel, because it was exposed to hot exhaust gasses.
Mike M.

JDP
01-26-2007, 01:17 PM
Jeff, I would not use the copper coat stuff with the paper gaskets he's using, I don't see the point, but am more then wiling to learn.:)


64 Commander 2 dr.
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT Hawk 4 speed
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

Mike Van Veghten
01-26-2007, 11:28 PM
I only use the dark material only. The material the white gaskets are made of hasn't worked well for me.
I also put composite gaskets on dry. I've also reused them as long as they aren't too stiff.

I have found that a composite material gasket that's slightly hard/stiff...can be helped out with engine oil. Let a coat soak in both sides for a while...they work like new.

Mike

DEEPNHOCK
01-27-2007, 09:00 AM
'Ultra Copper' from Permatex is a high temp silicone, it's not the 'Copper Coat' head gasket shellac of years past...
C'mon JP, get into the nineties!;)
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by JDP

Jeff, I would not use the copper coat stuff with the paper gaskets he's using, I don't see the point, but am more then wiling to learn.:)


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock