Drive Shaft: u joints

[swvalcon]

Any one know what the number is for the spicer mechanics u joint is on a 64 gt hawk. I came up with a uj507 front and uj 505 rear. Just want to be sure before i order.

[r1lark]

Here is Nate's interchange info at: http://www.northstarwheel.com/resources/interchange.pdf

The U-joint numbers referenced are NAPA and Precision.



Disclaimer: I have not personally tried every interchange on this sheet.

[swvalcon]

I was looking at these from NAPA and that is the numbers they are showing. I see the nates list shows the rear as the 505 but they are showing the front as a 429 so will check that out. The 505 are on sale at $23.97 and the 507 where 11.97

[swvalcon]

Nope napa says uj 429 does not fit.

[raoul5788]

Pretty sure it's a 369 you want.

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Pretty sure it's a 369 you want.

The 369 is the u- joint with outside retaining rings, used through 1962 models. Then, in 1963 a u-joint with inside retaining rings was used. For 1964 models, the factory Chassis manual says to check for inside or outside retaining rings, since either might have been used. In my experience, all '63s used the type with inside rings, and '64 was about half and half. The inside retaining ring versions were different front and rear, in that the attachment to the rear axle yoke was unchanged - thus the rear is a "combination" joint - inside retaining rings on the driveshaft, but dimensionally the same as the outside retaining ring joint where it clamped to the yoke.
Lots of other cars used either system, so don't let a counterman give you that "blank look."

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

My info for the '63 and '64 partial is Precision 507 front and Precision 505 rear. I think the 429 noted is not correct.

[swvalcon]

Thanks I will go ahead and order the 505 and 507 for pickup at Napa. Thats what they show also for inside snaps and that's what rockauto shows but they are out of stock.

[raoul5788]

The 369 is the u- joint with outside retaining rings, used through 1962 models. Then, in 1963 a u-joint with inside retaining rings was used. For 1964 models, the factory Chassis manual says to check for inside or outside retaining rings, since either might have been used. In my experience, all '63s used the type with inside rings, and '64 was about half and half. The inside retaining ring versions were different front and rear, in that the attachment to the rear axle yoke was unchanged - thus the rear is a "combination" joint - inside retaining rings on the driveshaft, but dimensionally the same as the outside retaining ring joint where it clamped to the yoke.
Lots of other cars used either system, so don't let a counterman give you that "blank look."

I didn't know that, thanks for the info.

[StudeRich]

Any one know what the number is for the spicer mechanics u joint is on a 64 gt hawk. I came up with a uj507 front and uj 505 rear. Just want to be sure before i order.

Your terminology on these, will bite you.

The proper name for the Type of "U" Joint with the (2) internal Split Ring locks is; "Mechanics brand". These were used on a very Limited basis on SOME '63 and '64's ONLY!
These are DIFFERENT Size Front to Rear, as used on Cameros.

The "SPICER" is the type used on all other Studebakers with the very common 4 outside Snap Rings. These are always used the SAME Front and Rear.

So if you bought one Spicer and One Mechanics Type, only ONE will work.
You can use eBay's New Free return shipping system!

[swvalcon]

No what I got are both with inside snaps but the rear uses a different part number because the rear does not use a snap on the side that hook to the rear end yoke.

[swvalcon]

Both got here today and both made in the USA. Front in Howell, MI and the rear in Elgin, IL>

[swvalcon]

Pushed to old joint's out today and other than they looked like they hadn't been greased in a long time where in good shape. Sand blasted the yoke and pushed the new joint into it but it was only 17 out today and tomorrow is going to be 40's so will wait until then to sand blast the shaft. Then finish installing u joints and it's ready to epoxy black and wait to install in car. I could have gotten by with out replacing them but at under $50. for new USA made I should never have to do it again in my life time.