I'm getting rust pimples forming there and curious about the best way to deal with this
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Best way to deal with rust below rear edge of 2 dr 66 back window
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How bad is the condition of the rusted area? Scrape any loose rust & see if you have holes bigger than pin holes. If it's been caught & just pin holes I'd proceed using POR15. Studebaker used a back glass molding that attached to the body similar to GM but different. Studebaker's clips were held on the pinch weld of the opening vs. GM clips were help on short, welded studs. Remove the back glass & order a new weatherstrip, then coat the entire area that the moldings cover with POR15. Use the smallest quantity available. I'd have to look but I think it's 1 pint. This is due to the stuff does not keep once it's been opened. Follow all directions by the book, especially use disposable rubber gloves. This stuff dries like iron & will take a long time getting it off your skin, maybe weeks. Mask all areas around that you don't want it on. Any areas that will receive sunlight afterwards will have to be painted with an automotive paint such as acrylic enamel.
I just recently sold my 69 Barracuda that I had coated the trunk floor with POR15 about 25 years ago. It still looked like I had just done it, stopping the rust there dead in it's tracks. This stuff dries so hard if you drip it on concrete like I did & try to chip it off afterwards, it will take a chunk of the concrete with it.59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
64 Zip Van
66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
66 Cruiser V-8 auto
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Just cut out the bad area(s), form new pieces and weld them in place. Primer the underside of the new parts before welding.
Any other method, you'll be reworking it again WAY before you want to..!
I had a 59 El Camino years back. I (a friend and I) had to build a new shelf to hold the back window...all the way across..! It's the only way to do it right.
Mike
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Having a Hawk body completely rust freed and restored I can suggest that you are probably seeing the tip of the iceberg. If you were to run around some nooks and crannies with a flexible scope you would likely find the rust is further developed than you think. I tend to agree with Mike's comment.
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AS above. With a little attention paid to surface prep POR-15 is a wonderful product. You will need to cut the spot out with a cut off tool . The damage you see is probably a fraction of the damage there is. Cut out a patch panel . Don't forget to flange the hole using a Vise- grip flangeing tool . I have used panel adhesive with success. Welding warps the begeebers out of the steel. Hold it in place with Cleecos. It is a good idea to seal up the back side to prevent moisture getting into the repair
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