Getting ready to have a machine shop press in new drum studs. How should I advise the shop to do this? Or will it be obvious to them? Not really clear to me what the swaging process entails. How to ensure a "non wobble" outcome?
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Correct Swaging Procedure?
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Some good information here explains process with pictures
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Originally posted by Joe Tondu View PostGetting ready to have a machine shop press in new drum studs. How should I advise the shop to do this? Or will it be obvious to them? Not really clear to me what the swaging process entails. How to ensure a "non wobble" outcome?
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After reading all the issues about swedgeing studs. Before cutting off the swedges I would drill and tap the drum and hub and install two or 3 bevel headed screws for which would center the drum back to where it was before swedges were removed
Hawkowner
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Originally posted by Hawkowner View PostAfter reading all the issues about swedgeing studs. Before cutting off the swedges I would drill and tap the drum and hub and install two or 3 bevel headed screws for which would center the drum back to where it was before swedges were removed
Hawkowner
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If you have to replace studs and are not replacing the drum, do one at a time. Cut the old swag, press out the stud, press in the new one then sag the new one. Go to the next stud. I have done this many times and it works. Finding a facility with the proper tooling to do this today is the problem. You can leave the drums loose if accurate new lug holes are drilled and reamed in between the existing holes. I think the shoulder on the stud is 9/16". I put the drum on a Bridgeport mill and create five new holes with only a .002" clearance to the lug shoulders. Then the drums are located but can be slip fit like they are on flanged axles.james r pepper
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I saw a video where they pressed out the old studs without grinding down the swage. I'm not reusing the drum nor the studs. Grind or no grind?
Also, how should my machinist ensure that the new studs locate perfectly? Don't want to necessarily turn the drums.1950 Champion
1962 MGA
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Without removing the swage to press out the stud, you could still distort the hub, which I assume you'd like to save.
I haven't had to do any studs on my Studebakers, but on Model A's most guys like to bolt the drum to the hub, then remove a bolt at a time and swage the new stud.
This keeps the drum lined up with the hub throughout the process.
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