Frame / Springs: Re-arching springs

[Ron Dame]

Are there any concerns with sagging leaf springs, like breakage? The Champ has it's original springs, the rears are near flat, the fronts somewhat reversed. But with 15" wheels, the stance looks better. Since it is a solid axle, camber is not affected and caster was set with shims, so I can't imagine alignment issues. I guess I am more concerned with the fatigue and having one or more break.

[Andy R.]

In my experience, re-arching is a temporary fix. The only way I'd consider it would be if I were reconditioning or adding a leaf or two.

When I installed a new set from Eaton-Detroit on my '62 Hawk, I was disappointed that the ride height remained the same. Once on the road, the difference in stability and comfort was night and day. They were about $400 - a little over twice the cost of re-arching.

[Treblig]

Re-arching is only worth it if the business has a furnace. Without a furnace they use a large press to physically re-bend the springs (I've seen this done). Re-bending with a press will only allow the springs to retain their height for a very short time...however, if they heat the spring in a furnace they will be like new because that's how the factory made them. I personally have an old set of 65 Mustang springs, I removed the top spring (the one with the eyes). I cut the ends off the Mustang spring and used a grinder to smooth the ends. I plan to install this Mustang top spring under the top spring on my daughter's Silver Hawk. The Mustang top spring is the same length (and width) as the Silver Hawk top spring so it should help a lot. I really like the nice soft ride that the old springs give you, by using a long "used" spring under the Silver Hawk top spring it shouldn't make the ride much harsher like new springs might. But the extra spring should "perk up" the spring function and also raise the rear just a bit (take the "sag" out!!)!!
I noticed that the majority of sagging is caused by the the top spring on the Silver Hawk. It visually bends just beyond the ends of the second leaf spring (I have pics). I figured that another spring (the same length as the top spring) would prevent the sagging at the ends of the second leaf spring without increasing the stiffness too much???

P.S. - I have a close friend that restores 65/66 Mustangs. He has many Mustangs that he's scrapping out. He'll sell me the extra rear leaf springs for a very reasonable price. I'm seriously thinking about taking all the discarded leaf spring and selling the top (and second) leaf springs to people would need an extra leaf. I'm not sure if it's worth it considering all the shipping costs but it should be much cheaper than buying new springs??


Good Luck!!
Treblig

[Ron Dame]

OK, but I am happy with the stance and the ride. Am in danger of them breaking just because they've settled?

[Treblig]

OK, but I am happy with the stance and the ride. Am in danger of them breaking just because they've settled?

Unless the spring have serious corrosion they should be just fine. Springs normally don't break unless they've been subjected to excessive loads for long periods of time. I doubt your springs have seen any abuse.

treblig

[joncon]

Re-arching is only worth it if the business has a furnace. Without a furnace they use a large press to physically re-bend the springs (I've seen this done). Re-bending with a press will only allow the springs to retain their height for a very short time...however, if they heat the spring in a furnace they will be like new because that's how the factory made them. I personally have an old set of 65 Mustang springs, I removed the top spring (the one with the eyes). I cut the ends off the Mustang spring and used a grinder to smooth the ends. I plan to install this Mustang top spring under the top spring on my daughter's Silver Hawk. The Mustang top spring is the same length (and width) as the Silver Hawk top spring so it should help a lot. I really like the nice soft ride that the old springs give you, by using a long "used" spring under the Silver Hawk top spring it shouldn't make the ride much harsher like new springs might. But the extra spring should "perk up" the spring function and also raise the rear just a bit (take the "sag" out!!)!!
I noticed that the majority of sagging is caused by the the top spring on the Silver Hawk. It visually bends just beyond the ends of the second leaf spring (I have pics). I figured that another spring (the same length as the top spring) would prevent the sagging at the ends of the second leaf spring without increasing the stiffness too much???

P.S. - I have a close friend that restores 65/66 Mustangs. He has many Mustangs that he's scrapping out. He'll sell me the extra rear leaf springs for a very reasonable price. I'm seriously thinking about taking all the discarded leaf spring and selling the top (and second) leaf springs to people would need an extra leaf. I'm not sure if it's worth it considering all the shipping costs but it should be much cheaper than buying new springs??


Good Luck!!
Treblig

Years ago I had a 65 2dr with a Chevy 327/375 & 4spd I raced. I took an extra top spring with the ends cut off and a extra middle leaf and installed them instead of track bars. It worked well but rode stiff.

[TWChamp]

OK, but I am happy with the stance and the ride. Am in danger of them breaking just because they've settled?

I wouldn't worry about them breaking. When I bought my restored 1950 Champion 3 years ago, the rear springs was one of the few things they didn't replace with new parts. I was worried about the springs because they have a reverse arc at the rear, as well as very deep rust pits. After 3 years of driving they are still holding up fine. I did find a much nicer pair to replace them though. Just have to remove them and install them.

[Robert Crandall]

I think there will be no way of knowing when one may break until it does.

I found one leaf broken on a 1950 GMC around this time last year. If your springs are assembled the same, then one leaf breaking will not be catastrophic. I did not notice the breakage until I saw it while greasing fittings.

Changing both front springs gave me an increase in ride height, which I like. A surprise was a great improvement in the ride. I did not change the rear springs.

[JoeHall]

I think there will be no way of knowing when one may break until it does.

I found one leaf broken on a 1950 GMC around this time last year. If your springs are assembled the same, then one leaf breaking will not be catastrophic. I did not notice the breakage until I saw it while greasing fittings.

Changing both front springs gave me an increase in ride height, which I like. A surprise was a great improvement in the ride. I did not change the rear springs.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61320[/ATTACH]

If the main leaf breaks, it can be catastrophic.

[altair]

I talked to a local major spring company (over 50 years in business) and he would not even consider re-arcing. He had all the specs on Studebaker rear springs and made new ones. They fit with no issues, they lined up perfect and the bolts went in by hand.

[karterfred88]

My position is, if you think you may need new springs--you do. If they have sagged enough so that you are now happy with its stance they are fatigued-end of discussion. New springs equal peace of mind. Loss of a main leaf on a straight axle means--loss of control-complete. Just my point of view.

[jackb]

my experience on re-arcing is about 2 years/3000 miles...

[GrumpyOne]

OK, but I am happy with the stance and the ride. Am in danger of them breaking just because they've settled?

Yes!

The warning signs are and increasing negative bend just behind the front spring mount. When that occurs, it's only a matter of time before total failure...

[Ron Dame]

Of course, I don't want that. But a Champ with 16: wheels looks good with stock spring height, one with 15" wheels looks sickly. Rather safe that sorry, but I'm trying to decide between ride height and safety, safety first

Yes!

The warning signs are and increasing negative bend just behind the front spring mount. When that occurs, it's only a matter of time before total failure...