Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

65 cruiser front shock mount

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Shocks: 65 cruiser front shock mount

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2687.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	10.5 KB
ID:	1753318Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2687.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	10.5 KB
ID:	1753318Gday guys, I've been look at buying a cruiser and was concerned about how the shocks were mounted to the lower control arm, does any body know if there's a part missing or is it the incorrect shocks? i'll add a photo, thanks
    Last edited by hughbe; 01-03-2017, 02:52 PM.

  • #2
    The correct bolt center to center on the lower cross pin for a Studebaker front shock ('57 and up) is 3-1/4". I have seen some people use a 1970s MoPar front shock which has a 2-7/8" center to center. Plus the MoPar shock is a little short as to extended length. I think the big washers shown were use to fit MoPar shock. No worries, the correct Studebaker front shock is readily available.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally there were nuts welded on the inside of the lower A arm and bolts went up into them to hold the shock up.
      sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
      1950 Champion Convertible
      1950 Champion 4Dr
      1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
      1957 Thunderbird

      Comment


      • #4
        These could be Camero Shocks also, whatever they just are, just not the Gabriel Classic Gas Shocks that actually Fit '57 to '66 Studes.

        Nothing is missing from this Car except a bit of proper research to find the correct Parts at:
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by thunderations View Post
          Originally there were nuts welded on the inside of the lower A arm and bolts went up into them to hold the shock up.
          No...there were two bolts with a carriage bolt head that dropped down through a square hole in the control arm that kept them from turning when tightening the nuts from below. The original bolts were fine threaded, but if I need to replace them I use a hardware store carriage bolt (coarse thread) and a nylock nut.

          Comment


          • #6
            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2705.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	6.6 KB
ID:	1711846Thanks Guys, would these be the right shocks, they seem to have the same mounting set up

            Comment


            • #7
              Could be, without a Part Number we have no clue. Are they Gabriel Classic Gas or not?

              Post #2 over here, has what you need:
              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...ghlight=shocks
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

              Comment


              • #8
                Cross pins look a little short. Are these supposed to be correct or are you just going by the picture?
                Have you looked at Monroe #5759?
                Studebaker parts are not that hard to source. You don't have to guess or wonder if they will work. Just get the correct part.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I am building a 66 cruiser for my daughter and just put the correct Gabriel shocks on this weekend. They are held on with carriage bolts from the top down as yours are. If you want the correct shocks I got them on Rockauto.com for $20 a piece. You have to search the part # they're not listed under the vehicle. Part # 82087 front 82103 rear.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for your help, glad i found this forum

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You are correct. I was thinking of my T-Bird front end. I always thought the Studebaker would be better with nuts welded onto the lower A arms. Just driving the car messes up those threads hanging down and makes it tough to remove the nuts without ruining the bolt when it starts spinning.

                      Originally posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
                      No...there were two bolts with a carriage bolt head that dropped down through a square hole in the control arm that kept them from turning when tightening the nuts from below. The original bolts were fine threaded, but if I need to replace them I use a hardware store carriage bolt (coarse thread) and a nylock nut.
                      sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                      1950 Champion Convertible
                      1950 Champion 4Dr
                      1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                      1957 Thunderbird

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by hughbe View Post
                        Thanks for your help, glad i found this forum
                        We have the correct front & rear shocks in stock, along with everything else you are likely to need. And while the SDC forum is a useful resource, not every piece of information here is correct. Make sure you have the shop manual and parts books for your model.

                        Chris.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Cheers Chris i'll be in contact

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X