Electrical: 62 Hawk fuel gauge

[wkwayland]

Does anybody have a working gas gauge for a 62 Hawk that they would be willing to sell. Just tired of buying junk (DOA) gauges off of eBay and swap meets. Thank you for looking

[Treblig]

I sent mine to a repair shop ('59 Hawk). They fixed it and sent it back with a properly "new" calibrated fuel sending unit (aftermarket). It works great and I'm very happy.

treblig

[wkwayland]

Do you have the name and address of the shop that you used?

[Treblig]

I had ISI (Instrument Services Inc, 4075 Steele Dr, Machesney Park, IL) repair my fuel gauge. ClocksandGauges.com
I paid $198.00 total for the repair and a new sending unit. If your sending unit is in good working order you probably need to remove it and send it along with your gauge so that they can calibrate them with each other. You need to talk to them about that. I didn't realize that the sending unit and the gauge had to calibrated to each other. I ended up having to send mine back a couple of times before they got it right. They had to open my gauge two or three times but they never charged me anything extra for all the work they did. Once they give you a quote they stick to the quote no matter how many times you return the item and do matter how many times they have to work on it to get it right.

treblig

[wkwayland]

Thank you for the information. I will send it out to be repaired if I am unable to find another good gauge. The reason I am not sending it out right away is that the face of the gauge is not in very good shape. Thanks again Weymouth

[StudeRich]

Or, you could buy a Stewart Warner replacement Gauge that will fit the 2 Inch hole, but with slightly different markings.
That is if you are not trying to keep it 100% Original. Then you will have a good looking, dependable New Gauge for way less Money.

[bezhawk]

Everyone checks out the gauge by hooking power to the terminals, and grounding the other. DO NOT DO THIS.
There are fine wires that can burn out very quickly under full power. There are two windings. a reference winding, and a heater winding that deflects a bi-metal strip, causing the needle deflection. When you hook direct power up the reference winding melts, and the gauge is ruined. Test it hooked to the variable resistance sending unit. They never truly go to zero ohms, and they limit the CURRENT.

[wkwayland]

Thank you for the information. What I did was take a Stewart Warner gauge that I got working with very similar stud layout on the back and sweep range. I replaced the face on the newer gauge with the one from a dead 62 gauge and then replaced the bezel from the dead gauge. Slid right in to the original holes. Is it accurate, I don't know yet but it works. I can deal with accuracy as I go. Thanks again

[wkwayland]

Everyone checks out the gauge by hooking power to the terminals, and grounding the other. DO NOT DO THIS.
Theare fine wires that can burn out very quickly under full power. There are two windings. a reference winding, and a heater winding that deflects a bi-metal strip, causing the needle deflection. When you hook direct power up the reference winding melts, and the gauge is ruined. Test it hooked to the variable resistance sending unit. They never truly go to zero ohms, and they limit the CURRENT.

I had already made a test bed for the gauges, the info on the windings is a keeper. I will print it and put it in my binder I am compiling. Thank you