Body / Glass: Door latches/ handles, 57 Transtar

[Bill A]

Hi again, it's been a while but I have the truck in my garage and have started on it. Question, the outer door handles droop as many do. I have seen a process of a return spring installation but after removing them and seeing how they work are the return springs available that position the lock rod in the lock assembly. They are broken on both doors, I took the drivers latch assembly partially apart and found heavy wear on two contact points so I welded them up and ground their profiles, seems to work well now but I would like to fix the handle position as well. any secret tricks would or a source for the springs would be a real help. Now I need to see what I can do with the headlight switch, it's kind of intermittent.

[jsmith1107]

I will be interested in what you hear---I have the same issue!

[Skip Lackie]

SI may have the springs, or maybe one of the other vendors. These should not be hard to find, as they are a common replacement part.

[TWChamp]

My 1950 Champion handle had a broken spring, and I found the perfect match at my local hardware store. My headlight switch was a bit intermittent also, due to non use for many years. I pulled and pushed it several times to clean the contacts, and now it's good. BTW, I also found one of the nuts on the ignition switch was loose.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

I remember a fix in an old magazine from the 50's or 60's. [maybe Gus and the Model Garage ?]
Swap the outside handles side to side. It puts a new wear surface at contact points.

[Bill A]

Thanks guys for the ideas/ answers. The misses got home this evening and went to the garage. She grabbed my creeper and went exploring and to be honest she was having fun. the truck is on stands and I blew the read drums off to check the brakes. The rears are goners so I am now considering the difference between stock rears and discs??? i was thinking front discs and drum rears but if the price is close enough I will do discs on all 4. So who has had experience with fitting discs in the past. It has a 5 in lug pattern. ?? I am going to check suppliers for the springs that I need as well.

[StudeRich]

So it is an E5,6 or 7, 1/2 Ton then?

[Bill A]

It's a 57 1/2 ton swb with a 259 and auto trans. I think it was an e7, i'm new to Studebaker's so lots to learn here.

[doofus]

For disc conversion look at Turner Brake site. careful with wife i have "Lost" drivers this way LOL . Luck Doofus

[Bill A]

Real dumb question, is it a normal process to tack weld replacement studs to the brake drum. I have never seen something like this done in my 40+ years of wrenching.

[Bill A]

I looked and he has it all so thanks for the heads up.

[TWChamp]

No, it's not correct to weld the heads of the studs, but I see it quite often on Model A wheels.
It's done by those who don't know how to swage, or those who don't have the press and tools to swage.
Careful grinding with a Dremel should remove most of the weld, then drilling the head and using a press with proper backing should press the stud out.

[Bill A]

I'm sure I can salvage the drums but the hubs are in question. The bolts have a larger shoulder both in diameter as well as length so the clown that did this used a spacer between the drum and wheel to accommodate the extension of the bolt shoulders. I saw this and was beyond confused. The wife said there was a time that her mom had control of the truck after her dad passed so thats when things happened. For sure discs in the front and I would like to run drums at the rear but now I have to look at it a bit longer. the drums are still usable but the bolt holes have been drilled so the rear hubs would need drilling????? I guess I would need front hubs if I want to retain the original bolts. Poop

[Bill A]

I think I have my bolt/ hub dilemma resolved in a manner that will work. Front discs and rear shoes. The front discs are still good at least in appearance so they will go to the rear and I will buy the bracketry from Turners for the discs. The money I save in not getting the whole kit I will use to buy another shrinker stretcher, I was digging around and discovered both rear fenders have rusted front lower corners that will need attention. i did a search and couldn't find patch panels for the corners on line so I have made them in the past for 55/ 57 Chevys so hence another shrinker/ stretcher to shape the corners. I gave the one I had away a few years ago knowing I was done with that type of work...... let that be a lesson- right. Oh yea, the good news is I didn't give my small mig welder away.