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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Transmission slips when cold

    The transmission in my 63 R1 Cruiser has started slipping and slow to shift when it is cold. After it warms up it works fine . It is the HD one with the oil lines to the radiator. I talked to a transmission man and he said adjusting the clutches wouldn't help. He recommended rebuilding it or leaving it alone. It doesn't take it long to warm up but I figure this winter it will be worse. I was planning on driving it this winter, it is my everyday driver. Thought about changing it to a turbo 350 or 700r.

  • #2
    Seems ashame to drive that car in the winter but if you must what you might try is to put a pint of lacquer thinner in the transmission and drive it for an hour or so. This will circulate the thinner through the box, soften the seals and the thinner will boil back out of the transmission. I've done it before with similar symptoms and it worked wonders. Results could naturally vary.

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    • #3
      Out here, tranny rebuilds cost north of $600. That's a lot of tranny fluid ! Seriously.... your seals are shot. Nels' suggestion is fair, for a while. I've used Trans-X additive with similar, short term results. To put things in perspective... wthere is a thread here talking about placing a small spare in the trunk to gain space for a road trip. Most of us here carry several hundred pounds of road-replacement parts in the trunk anyway... whats a few quarts of oil, tranny fluid, water/Prestone....On a lighter note... make sure you have HD rear springs too.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by joncon View Post
        The transmission in my 63 R1 Cruiser has started slipping and slow to shift when it is cold. After it warms up it works fine . It is the HD one with the oil lines to the radiator. I talked to a transmission man and he said adjusting the clutches wouldn't help. He recommended rebuilding it or leaving it alone. It doesn't take it long to warm up but I figure this winter it will be worse. I was planning on driving it this winter, it is my everyday driver. Thought about changing it to a turbo 350 or 700r.
        Since it "works fine" when warmed up, I would do a thorough fluid change, including the converter, easily done on the old BW trans. While a band adjustment may or may not not help, checking the control valve pressure and adjusting may, While the pan is off for the drain and filter change you can check that all the cross pipes are tight and perhaps force some cleaner through the control valve and valve body, which has more than likely accumulated some varnishing and deposits. That is pretty cheap and easy and may cure it. The transmission guy, unless a real old timer, probably has little experience with these transmissions and if you need him to perform these basics, better bring the shop manual. I'd be hesitant in dumping some acetone or other cleaner in it since it could dislodge the wrong "gunk" in the wrong place and make things worse. If you do decide to change the transmission, there is little to no benefit putting a 350 or 400 in it-still have 3 speeds. If you are serious on changing it, go with a 200R4 best compatible ratios. The GM adapter from our vendors will work with either but you'd be no better off with the 350 or 400 than rebuilding yours, if done by somebody that knows how-rare today--it will last as long or longer than the GM transmissions. Good luck!!

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        • #5
          So are we talking about a H.D. Column Shift "Flight-O-Matic" or a H.D. "Power Shift" floor shift?

          It is not common to have either one, so since they are both VERY durable and long lasting, your best long term solution is to rebuild it before the slipping clutches are totally burned out and contaminate the whole Trans.

          The problems with these are almost always hardened Clutch Drum Seals after 50 years of use causing loss of pressure and Clutch slippage, and by the way that can NOT be adjusted, only repaired.

          Bands can usually use an adjustment, but are not normally the cause of your symptoms.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

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          • #6
            It's a column shift. The local transmission man works on a lot of older collector type cars. He had a BW for a 70 mustang sitting on his bench and a 49 Buick on his lift when I stopped by. He said adjusting the clutches wouldn't help. I'd already put some of the Lucas transmission additive in it.

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            • #7
              Slow to shift cold, working better when warm is a classic symtym of hard lip seals and or o rings. Worn bushings can also allow sealing rings to cut into drums another source of a pressure leak. Drop pan and see what you find, metal or brass shavings means time for a rebuild. Lou Cote

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              • #8
                How much is a qt. of tranny fluid ? Rebuild the unit and never look back...

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                • #9
                  Try the pint of lacquer thinner.

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                  • #10
                    Warm the darn thing up before you drive away, it may outlast us all LOL, Doofus

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                    • #11
                      Those 'O' ring seals in the clutches and servos are shot- These trannies are simple and cheap to freshen up. If you must use it every day eventually it is going to fail on you. I have had the rings break into bits when I removed them and wondered how owners put old disused studes on the road. Have a look at my blog on repairing my own Flightomatic, Jon.

                      Repair it and rest easy.
                      Steve

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                      • #12
                        I have a Mercury that does the same things.........but only in the cold weather, in spring and summer no problems. The trans guys call this "morning sickness" I just let it warm up and then good to go all day with no problems.
                        Originally posted by Steve Winzar View Post
                        Those 'O' ring seals in the clutches and servos are shot- These trannies are simple and cheap to freshen up. If you must use it every day eventually it is going to fail on you. I have had the rings break into bits when I removed them and wondered how owners put old disused studes on the road. Have a look at my blog on repairing my own Flightomatic, Jon.

                        Repair it and rest easy.
                        Steve

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                        • #13
                          My experience tells me to prep the tranny for a fluid change by adding Lubeguard transmission flush, bringing it up to operating temperature and drive it around the block a few time being sure to use all gears including reverse. Drain and refill with a good quality fluid, (I like Red Line synthetic Type F), but those who prefer Dexron can use Valvoline Synthetic usually available at Wallyworld. Be sure to add a bottle of Lubeguar in the red bottle. These products are available at virtually every transmission parts supplier.

                          Your tranny will love the synthetic stuff...

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