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Brake Pressure Switch Failing Already on 1950 Champion

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  • Brake Pressure Switch Failing Already on 1950 Champion

    I had to install a new brake switch when I bought my Champion 2 1/2 years ago. Last week I put 600 miles on it during a 4 day club outing, and the guy that always followed me said my brake lights don't work. I stepped on the brake pedal and watched the ammeter to show him that they do work, but they take more pressure than I use when braking. I think I bought the switch from NAPA, and was wondering if there is a better quality switch that would last longer? Thanks, Tom

    If not, then I'll rig up a position switch, rather than keep replacing pressure switches.

  • #2
    Yes it seams that when they start going Bad the first issue on mine have always been it takes enough pressure to lock up the brakes (a Lot) to activate the hydraulic Switch. So when that happens normal stopping will not light the Stop Lights.

    You're right, the best solution is a Mechanical lever switch on the linkage.
    On Cars like my '64 Daytonas' and Avanti, I keep the Hydraulic Switch & wires because it is visible on the Firewall, but the wires are bi-passed under the dash to the "Pedal" switch so they are dead.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      You can try one from your local Harley dealer.

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      • #4
        I changed many, many (etc., ad nauseum), including one from Harley that lasted no longer than any others. For a 1957 Buick with suspended pedals I changed to one from a 1978 C20, because I had one to look at to figure out how to install, and made a bracket. For my 1949 2R5 I chose one from a 1950 GMC. That one was only drill 2 holes and reroute the two wires. No trouble from either one since. These are mechanical switches.

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        • #5
          I'll probably mount a micro switch near the master, and just move the wires over.
          I'm not having much car luck lately. My Studebaker is my only car for the past 6 weeks until I figure out what all is wrong with my 99 Olds 88, then today I hit a bump in the road, and now my right turn signals don't work. The dash light doesn't come on either. I haven't had time to check it out yet, but I'd guess there must be a loose wire since a bump killed it.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
            I had to install a new brake switch when I bought my Champion 2 1/2 years ago. Last week I put 600 miles on it during a 4 day club outing, and the guy that always followed me said my brake lights don't work. I stepped on the brake pedal and watched the ammeter to show him that they do work, but they take more pressure than I use when braking. I think I bought the switch from NAPA, and was wondering if there is a better quality switch that would last longer? Thanks, Tom

            If not, then I'll rig up a position switch, rather than keep replacing pressure switches.

            Here's a better switch...

            Wiring Harnesses, Electric Fan Controls, Accessories, Grounding, Lighting, Switches, Fuel Injection Harnesses, Wiring Aids and More!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
              I'll probably mount a micro switch near the master, and just move the wires over.
              I'm not having much car luck lately. My Studebaker is my only car for the past 6 weeks until I figure out what all is wrong with my 99 Olds 88, then today I hit a bump in the road, and now my right turn signals don't work. The dash light doesn't come on either. I haven't had time to check it out yet, but I'd guess there must be a loose wire since a bump killed it.
              The problem with both the Turn Signals and the Dash Indicator is likely a Lost Ground at the Parking Light.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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              • #8
                I just picked up an Echlin SL128 mechanical brake switch today. Napa had to order it. It was $17.29 plus tax.
                There is a perfect example of how to mount it on Bob J.s web site. The normally closed switch, looks a little smaller in real life, than in the picture.
                Last edited by Studeous; 10-17-2016, 02:26 PM.
                My 1st car. "A TRANSTAR"

                Starliner
                sigpic
                Somewhere between Culture and Agriculture
                in the Geographic center of Tennessee

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                • #9
                  All pressure switches are crap-shoots. If you use silicone fluid, doubly so. Here is what I use instead... All the best.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by GrumpyOne View Post
                    I installed an ebay version (cheaper price) of this low pressure switch in all three Hawks, about 3 years ago. So far, so good, and I like that they turn the brake lights on with very light pedal pressure.

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                    • #11
                      You could order a mechanical switch from " watson's street works " Just installed mine ,and this comes with the 90' degree lever arm ,so you don't have to drill a hole in your brake pedal arm ,and install other parts to make it work.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Xcalibur View Post
                        All pressure switches are crap-shoots. If you use silicone fluid, doubly so. Here is what I use instead... All the best.
                        If this switch is what I think it is............it allows one to mount the switch in front of the brake pedal or behind it has three terminals.........it can be wired to be normally open or normally closed.
                        IF you are going to use a pressure switch, consider wiring it through a relay. My experience is that it extends the life of the switch.
                        John

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                        • #13
                          I hate to steal the tread , but who makes 6 volt Relays?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 14x7 View Post
                            I hate to steal the tread , but who makes 6 volt Relays?
                            Any electronics supply store should have some. We have Radio Shack, Ax Man, ABC Electronics Surplus, and one more that I know of in the Twin Cities.

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                            • #15
                              I spent some time in a fleet vehicle repair shop where I learned all about pressure activated light switches; we had to maintain all lights operational on the vehicles. I must have changed nearly a dozen before coming to the conclusion that it is a wholly unreliable means to activate something as safety critical as brake lights. The total number of mechanical switches I replaced? 0

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