Quick question to all stude truck owners

[Jacob p]

Hi everyone. I have another question for you. So I'm currently in the process of restomoding my 1955 stud e7 pickup. I don't have an engine in it yet. But I will after I get the frame sand blasted and powder coated. Before I install the engine. I need to update the front and rear end. For the front I'm going to get a mustang 2 front suspension. What should I use for the rear end? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank you all for your time[ATTACH=CONFIG]58771[/ATTACH

[oilnsteel]

A stock Dana 44 will be just fine. Rebuild the stock front axle and put Jim Turner's disc brakes on it. You have more than enough work to do on the body, engine, etc to screw around with changing to the light duty Mustang II suspension.
Just 2 cents worth from an old coot who drives his 3E7 daily.

Jim

[sweetolbob]

If you are going to that much work, why not locate a Dakota or S10 pickup and transplant everything including drivetrain. Nice classic truck with all the updates of a modern pickup. Those transplants have been done many times. Bob

[StudeNewby]

What do you have in mind as far as use of the truck? I have a 64 Champ 8E7 with stock everything, and I still use it as a truck for towing and hauling. Unless the suspension is damaged beyond reasonable repair, I'd consider keeping it as stock as possible, but I'd take Jim's advice on the brakes.

[studejohn]

Just my thoughts. I think you're going down the wrong road when you're saying you're going to use Mustang II Front suspension type. Had a friend that did it to his 55 truck he couldn't sleep at night after he got done . He eventually cut it all out and return it to the original suspension and look. He can sleep at night now much happier. I don't Oppose you changing the drivetrain just do your homework first

[Mrs K Corbin]

Holy Geezus he thinks he's superman! (see the image)

If you're gonna restomod the thing, just grab an s10 or Dakota and get er dun quickly....
I used to know of a shop teacher who ruined a perfectly good studebaker truck by dropping the body on a 84 chevy frame (it fit well after Z cutting the frame)
However there was nothing wrong with the low-mileage Studebaker drive train, I kept it for years until someone bought the engine from me.

You've got a pile of body work to do, however.....
If you're gonna go that far, mock it up on whatever you plan to use it on, then kill the tin-worms eating at it before you go much further......

[Mrs K Corbin]

it's not an automatic per chance correct?

[PackardV8]

Your truck, your money, your decision.

However, you did come here asking for opinions. The Mustang II is not what I'd put under a Stude truck. If you're bound and determined to go IFS, the Ford Aerostar fits better and is a much easier install.

If wanting a C-cab look with modern running gear, there have been several Dakota or S10 swaps, but, "If one has to ask how-to, maybe better not." I've seen many more of these projects begun than driving. Make a realistic assessment of how many of this type project you've successfully completed.

FWIW, I've driven C-cabs for almost sixty years and each of them had the solid axle and drum brakes. If everything in the brakes, shocks and suspension bushings is new, they drive, turn and stop well enough. I did finally wimp out and install power steering in my custom E12.

jack vines

[Sdude]

GM 5.3L Vortec engine, 4L60E transmission, Fatman IFS, Vintage Air (made specifically for the C Cab truck). Hooked up the IFS and Auto transmission linkage to the stock steering column and 3 on the tree shifting lever. It can be done but I can't attest to how difficult it was to do as I only wrote the checks. It runs and drives like a modern truck. I love mine. Do a forum search of my posts and you will see many more pictures and details of the build. I love my truck....

[Xcalibur]

I've had Stude trucks (and still have a parts truck) all with Stude V/8s and running gear, but were I building one today I'd drop the best body I could find onto a more modern chassis, such as an S-10 as others have done successfully and never look back.

[jnfweber]

Here's another nice E-7 pickup.

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I agree with most of the respondents who would keep the Studebaker suspension [and drive train]. I saw this nice '55 listed and drove 770 miles to bid on it. Unfortunately, when the bid got up to $10,000, I kept bidding until I drove the price up to $16,000, and I decided this was too much for this nice [almost original] truck which had been converted to 12V, '63 or '64 259 V-8, fairly good paint, undercoated, no rust at all, and even better, overdrive. Shows what can be done with this desirable model. Wish I could have afforded it at my price. Engine compartment was pristine as the rest of the truck, with yellow valve covers, red breather caps, and a well-done battery support.



Also, a very nice Lark V-8, 30,000 mile survivor, nice repaint, otherwise pristine and original, sold for $4,500. I just had to throw in the "flamed" R-series custom from the 2016 La Palma meet.

[Jacob p]

Thank you all. I appreciate all the help. I plan on keeping the frame because it's still good. But the suspension is shot. And it doesn't have an engine. It is a roller for now. The drive train is in horrible condition. And as for the massive amounts of body work. I've basically taken care of most of it. Its just an old picture.

[Mrs K Corbin]

post some newer pics please......

[Fritz51]

Ok here is my question I have a 1951 2R10 truck all original with a Champion 170 and a T-9 4 speed un-sync transmission, I love the truck but hate driving it with a un-sync transmission, I rebuilt the transmission in spring with no issues. I'm thinking about putting in a chevy small block 350 with a auto transmission in the truck to make it more drive-able. Any suggestions about swapping out just the transmission for something that is currently available?

[Skip Lackie]

You will get a number of recommendations to install a 3-speed/OD trans. They are synchro in 2nd and 3rd, and provide an automatic "4th" gear. It would be a direct swap, and would absolutely change the character of your truck. They can be found, and there are a few people here (or on the Stude Truck Talk site) who can rebuild them to new-condition.