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Coupe Express
09-22-2016, 10:40 AM
The battery is up and the car turns over well but the car will not start until just as I release the key. If I hold the key in the crank position it will continue to crank but will not start. It's hard to tell but it seems like it finds a sweat spot as I release the key slowly and it fires off. I replaced the ignition switch but that made no difference. The previous owner had replaced the original ignition system with a Mopar electronic system. Any ideas on what I should do next.
Thanks, Mike

rkapteyn
09-22-2016, 10:54 AM
Try replacing the starter solenoid.
It has a contact in there that short circuits the resistor while cranking to give the coil full 12 volt while cranking.
It may never have been hooked up with the Mopar conversion.
Dave Thibault 978 897-3158 sold these conversion a long time ago and may have a wiring diagram

Robert Kapteyn

55s
09-22-2016, 11:04 AM
This was a common problem in early old Chrysler electronic ignitions. Check the external resistor, was a white ceramic block about 4 inches long x 3/4" x 3/4".

Coupe Express
09-22-2016, 02:20 PM
Thanks for the information. I talked to Dave Thibeault and he gave me some additional pointers, so hopefully I'll get it figured out.
Mike

Xcalibur
09-22-2016, 11:02 PM
Also, the old ignition switch can do amazingly strange things... and can commence doing so over night! Guess how I know.

GrumpyOne
09-22-2016, 11:15 PM
I would suspect the ignition "hot" wire from the selenoid to coil. Also the resistor if the car is so equipped. It's been a long time since I owned an Avanti, (S/N 4500), but remember that the ignition was not electronic.

Like others have stated, the selenoid could also be the culprit.

unimogjohn
09-23-2016, 05:00 AM
When I got my Avanti, it would do exactly as you describe. Turned out that the ignition wire to the coil was bad. It would start on the ballast resistor circuit, but then immediately die when the key was released.

TWChamp
09-23-2016, 09:54 AM
The battery is up and the car turns over well but the car will not start until just as I release the key. If I hold the key in the crank position it will continue to crank but will not start. It's hard to tell but it seems like it finds a sweat spot as I release the key slowly and it fires off. I replaced the ignition switch but that made no difference. The previous owner had replaced the original ignition system with a Mopar electronic system. Any ideas on what I should do next.
Thanks, Mike

A lot of good answers here for the original points system, but this has been changed to ELECTRONIC ignition.

I'd like to see the schematic for the electronic ignition, but if it has the dual ballast, then I'd guess the low ohm (cranking) winding is open, as mentioned by 55s in reply #3.

altair
09-23-2016, 03:04 PM
I don't know the ins and outs of an electronic ignition system but with the old system I had the same problem, just as I came off the starter it would start. I connected a small light to the hot wire on the coil and while cranking it would go out indicating there was no power to the coil when cranking. After checking the system it was determined that the ground from the battery to the block was badly rusted and while cranking, redirected all the power to the rusted contact. Try connecting the ground cable directly on to the starter lug. This cured my problem.

lschuc
09-23-2016, 11:08 PM
try a different ignition module that may be mounted somewhere in the engine compartment, or hidden inside the car under the dash. This is the square module that has a black rubber plug attached with 5 or 6 wires going into the plug. Non-OEM modules can often go bad. I recently had the same problem on a '63 Avanti, the problem was the bad ignition control box.

Xcalibur
09-24-2016, 12:25 AM
My post applies to EITHER old or electronic system.

bezhawk
09-24-2016, 07:29 AM
If it's a Chrysler type of ignition, here's the schematic:
http://studebaker-info.org/tech/Ignition/tbowmopar/ignit1a.jpg

TWChamp
09-24-2016, 09:00 AM
Thanks for the schematic. So, the ignition switch sends the full voltage to the coil in the start position, rather than the starter motor solenoid bypass as used on GM cars. I would check the voltage at the + terminal of the coil both in the run and start key positions. It should read 12 volts while cranking the engine.

altair
09-24-2016, 03:24 PM
If the ground is not confirmed it still won't send the required voltage.

rstrasser
09-25-2016, 05:30 PM
If I read the Chrysler Ignition diagram correctly
I1 is hot in both the start and run position. On a Avanti it is the original wire that went to the positive post on the coil
I2 is hot only in the run position. It is the wire that comes from the 2nd small terminal on the starter solenoid. It is the wire that the service bulletin instructs how to add on the earlier Avantis.
As altair previously said the ECU must be grounded. I don't remember how I grounded the ECU or if it had a ground wire. I have since replaced it with a Malory unit and am thinking about going back to points. Much easier to replace points then fiddle with electronics.
Ron

Jackson
09-25-2016, 07:13 PM
I had the same starting problem on my 64 Avanti R2 with a Mallory distributor and a 12V coil that did not require an external ballast resistor (or resistance wire from the ignition) and no connection to the solenoid. When the engine is running the ignition is at 12V and the 12V coil output is high, however during start the ignition drops to 9V and the 12V coil output drops enough that the spark plugs do not fire, when the starter is released the ignition returns to 12V and enough plugs fire to start the engine. I replaced the 12V coil with a 9V coil that requires an external ballast resistor (drops the 12V ignition to 9V) which is bypassed during start by a connection to the solenoid, problem solved.

bezhawk
09-25-2016, 07:35 PM
Sorry, that was a poor diagram. Google Chrysler 4 pin electronic ignition for a better diagram.