Paint: Paint Color and Formula for 49 2Rx

[hutch]

I posted a request for info on original color for my 2R10 a while back and got some good direction, pointing me to some paint coding sites. I followed up on all those leads and am still back at square one. I cannot believe that, as popular a color as it was, no one has fought this battle before me. My truck is a greenish/blue, kind of an aqua color -- dont know how else to describe it. My PPG dealer SingleSource has chip samples but when they mix it, its WAY too blue. I have a great pristine one foot square sample that was on the bottom of the pickup box underneath and I polished it and got PPG SingleSource to come out with their Buck Rogers ray gun and shoot it -- they got poor results.

So after 3 months Im back to square one. None of the paint code sites worked, none of the dealers I have worked with can come up with a formula. I hate doing the trial and error thing but I may have to if no one out there can come up with anything. Thanks to those who responded last time -- any new ideas?

Hutch

[karterfred88]

You are fighting a loosing battle. Even if you were to find the exact formula from 1949 it wouldn't work with todays paint toners--different pigments and strengths. You need to work with a different paint supplier-an old fashioned one, not dependent on a gun reading a reflection and digitizing it. A good supplier will have a book with 2+ thousand chips, with a hole in each, to put your sample behind and find a very close match, especially if it is non-metallic, or be able to "eye-ball" the color and mix it from scratch. Try finding a friendly body shop with a painter who knows what he's doing. He can mix you up a small batch that matches, then have a formula that will work for a larger quantity. Formulas from the past are worthless. Have you gone to the Ray-Lin site and looked at what it takes to match a color with todays toners? http://raylinrestoration.com/Technic...PaintForms.htm
remember, if you take even a paint chip from a new car and compare it to its formula-it may not match. Production line painting, often caused slight color changes with tiny amounts of pigments mixed with others, line pressure changes, batch switches, and on and on, so that even two vehicles painted the same day, with the same color, might not match exactly. I don't think you will find an easy way out, but should be able to find a source to match your color. If I could do it as a non-paint expert, when I had access to toners at a body shop, there is a way.

[T.J lavallee]

Try : paintref.com/Studebaker. Click on your year and model. Choose your color from that year's production paint chips and get today's codes from DuPont and Dizler.

[Lynn]

did you ever look at the trim tag for the paint code?

mine is Iroquois Blue, which is a blue green, turqoise color, but for some reason, I cannot post a pic today.

[swvalcon]

If you have a part that you can take off the truck that isn't to big. Maybe no more than a about 6" sq. and as flat as possible. Polish or buff it as best you can and they should be able to get a close enough match to where they can tint it to match. That or see if they have what is called a color map book. It is a paint chip book with all the colors in it and each one is just a shade different. It will have maybe two or three pages of reds and the same with blue and green. You should be able to find something close in that to work for you. Being a non metalic color will help a lot. we use to use the book at the big truck dealership that I retired from all the time as a lot of truck are speical painted to some company colors. And when they are used you have no idea what that was. Only ones we could look up on the computer was our own brand.

[hutch]

If you have a part that you can take off the truck that isn't to big. Maybe no more than a about 6" sq. and as flat as possible. Polish or buff it as best you can and they should be able to get a close enough match to where they can tint it to match. That or see if they have what is called a color map book. It is a paint chip book with all the colors in it and each one is just a shade different. It will have maybe two or three pages of reds and the same with blue and green. You should be able to find something close in that to work for you. Being a non metalic color will help a lot. we use to use the book at the big truck dealership that I retired from all the time as a lot of truck are speical painted to some company colors. And when they are used you have no idea what that was. Only ones we could look up on the computer was our own brand.

The only really good sample I have was the bottom of the bed, which is problematic to take to them because its so darn big and heavy. And getting them to come to me has not worked -- maybe if I was a paint shop they would but as an individual guess its not worth it. Rest of truck too faded. It had original paint but spent all its life in Nevada as farm irrigation truck. Good news is minor rust -- bad news is no paint except badly oxidized.

[hutch]

You are fighting a loosing battle. Even if you were to find the exact formula from 1949 it wouldn't work with todays paint toners--different pigments and strengths. You need to work with a different paint supplier-an old fashioned one, not dependent on a gun reading a reflection and digitizing it. A good supplier will have a book with 2+ thousand chips, with a hole in each, to put your sample behind and find a very close match, especially if it is non-metallic, or be able to "eye-ball" the color and mix it from scratch. Try finding a friendly body shop with a painter who knows what he's doing. He can mix you up a small batch that matches, then have a formula that will work for a larger quantity. Formulas from the past are worthless. Have you gone to the Ray-Lin site and looked at what it takes to match a color with todays toners? http://raylinrestoration.com/Technic...PaintForms.htm
remember, if you take even a paint chip from a new car and compare it to its formula-it may not match. Production line painting, often caused slight color changes with tiny amounts of pigments mixed with others, line pressure changes, batch switches, and on and on, so that even two vehicles painted the same day, with the same color, might not match exactly. I don't think you will find an easy way out, but should be able to find a source to match your color. If I could do it as a non-paint expert, when I had access to toners at a body shop, there is a way.

Yes I am where you are now. What I was hoping to find is someone out there who had already fought the battle and had a local paint dealer who matched the color and who would give me the name of his dealer so I could just go to his dealer. I think the color is a pretty common 2R color. Did that with an old early '50s Corvette when I couldnt find paint and that worked. Also went to York this year hoping to find one there and an owner to talk to -- no luck. Did meet Ted Jensen nice guy restores lots of these old trucks but lost his contact info. Anyone know how to reach him? Bet he has a source.

[Dwain G.]

The original mixing formula is the service bulletins, but is of no use today in most cases. Here is a newer number that may help.

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?comm=Iroquois+Blue&rows=50&button=Search

Ted Jensen frequents the Truck Talk Forum, you can reach him there after registering.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/23885

[T.J lavallee]

The following colors were available from Studebaker for trucks for 49 : Melody blue, Iroquis blue. Cuban tan, Chrome yellow, Clover green, & Cherokee red. The color you describe is Iroquis blue I believe. The original Stude color code was #8179. It has been reproduced by Ditzler PPG as code # 10455. This should help to narrow it down for you, otherwise I guess I just don't understand your problem.

[StudeRich]

I wonder if the Truck Color was anything close to this '50-'51 Car Aqua Green?
This has a touch of Blue, but not enough to be Blue.



Here is TCP Global's answer to a Iroquois Blue #8179 request:

Exact Color: Iroquois Blue	Chip Formula Number:	Manufacturer Paint Code: 8179
Item No Description Your Price Quantity RSP AE-B-GL AE-ACRYLIC ENAMEL "B" COLOR RESTORATION SHOP PAINT [COLOR=#009900 !important]$119.96[/COLOR] RSP AE-B-QT AE-ACRYLIC ENAMEL "B" COLOR RESTORATION SHOP PAINT [COLOR=#009900 !important]$49.96[/COLOR]

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1950-Studebaker-pg01.jpg

[hondaofeaston]

I just purchased a 1957 Golden Hawk and in need of touch up paint for small dings

[hondaofeaston]

I just purchased a 1957 Golden Hawk and in need of touch up paint for small dings. Tiara Gold

[Lynn]

And, even the same vehicle can look different in different lights.

[karterfred88]

I just purchased a 1957 Golden Hawk and in need of touch up paint for small dings. Tiara Gold

Likely not original paint on the car, ask the seller if he knows who painted it last, probably your best bet on finding a "touch-up" paint. Otherwise you're in the same position as the poster, find a supplier with a "chip book" try to "eye-ball" the best match. Colors like gold fade fast, even some left over paint from the re-spray might not match anymore. Good luck.

[swvalcon]

If you have a part or can drive the car to the paint store they should be able to get a fairly close match. Most paint companies also have what they call a color map book. It will have all the colors in it like lets say a green and there will be page after page of green color chips just a shade different and they will have a hole in the middle of the chip so you can set it on the car and see how far off the chip looks. Keep in mine the chip is ink and may loose something when mixed in paint. We used it all the time on large truck paint to find the closest match that we could then tint from there.