Can I fire up my newly rebuilt 289, with a Pertronix unit in the distributor and not use the Ballast Resister? I only want to see if it fires up for a second or two, but I DON'T want to burn up the Pertonix unit. Thanks, guys...
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Why would you not hook up the ballast resistor? Do you have a specific reason for not wanting to do so?RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon -
There is some amount of conflict in the Pertronix instructions, the kits usually say if the car has a external or Resistance wire resister use it. But the Pertronix Flame Thrower 40,000 Volt Coil instructions say run a hot wire to the Igniter?
StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967Comment
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Which of the several Pertronix are you using? The first generation was the one which would fry if left with the ignition on. Supposedly the Pertronix II won't. Why not call Pertronix directly? It's for certain no one here will offer to replace one if the advice lets out the magic smoke. While the units are Chicom, the marketing company here should be able to answer any such questions.
jack vinesPackardV8Comment
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RADIO ROY - I don't have a ballast resistor yet.
JACK - It's an 1183 and it only says "Ignitor Electronic Ignition" on the box. Application is "Delco early V8".Comment
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I would be more concerned with a coil failure if a ballast resistor is not installed. I know that Pertronix says that you can run their Flame Thrower coils without a resistor, but in my opinion, that is BS. I've had to replace three Pertronix coils in recent history because they overheated from too much voltage from not having a ballast resistor installed. If you are using a stock or some other aftermarket coil, then you absolutely need a resistor. BudComment
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I have four Pertronix systems installed, all the first type (the type that can be damaged by leaving the ignition on) and all using the stock, original equipment coils that came with the car.
All four work flawlessly and have for the last 20 years or so. The coils that originally had a resistor in line still have them.
I would never dream of turning on the ignition without cranking/starting the engine. Maybe that is why none of mine have failed.
But to answer the OP's question... no. Do not operate it without a proper resistor.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagonComment
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What are the thoughts on internal ballast coils with Pertronix?1963 Champ "Stu Bludebaker"- sometimes driver
1957 Silver Hawk "Josie"- picking up the pieces after an unreliable body man let it rot for 11 years from an almost driver to a basket case
1951 Land Cruiser "Bunnie Ketcher" only 47M miles!
1951 Commander Starlight "Dale"- basket case
1947 Champion "Sally"- basket case
1941 Commander Land Cruiser "Ursula"- basket caseComment
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Roy, you're an electronics guy, but we'll have to agree to disagree on this one. Troubleshooting the various electrical components of an automobile often requires having the circuits operational. Designing a component which will be catastrophically destroyed when used in a normal environment is IMHO just bad engineering. No OEM would ever think of sending out such a design.I would never dream of turning on the ignition without cranking/starting the engine. Maybe that is why none of mine have failed.PackardV8Comment
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A lot of people think that because it is an "electronic" ignition, the Pertronix sends 12V positive to the coil - but that is incorrect. All the Pertronix does is electronically replicate what your points did, which is (temporarily) connect the coil to ground. Hence the coil should be used with whatever resistor it had originally. The coil resistor has (essentially) nothing to do with the Pertronix device itself.
Where people get into trouble is they will take the red, 12V positive wire for the Pertronix and connect it to the resistor-ed side of the power going to the coil. Then they will have less than 12 volts running the Pertronix. It is best to wire it directly to the ignition switch, and even better through a relay. I also recommend using a slip connector for the red, 12V wire to the Pertronix. That way when you need to have the ignition on in a sustained fashion, without the engine running, you can keep from frying the original version of the Pertronix by easily disconnecting it.
I agree with Mr. Vine's assessment of the original Pertronix design being poor. One idea I had was to design a 555 timer circuit so that if it did not see a pulsing of the signal (meaning engine running) it would shut down the Pertronix 12V+ power after... 20 seconds (they say the original Pertronix can fry in as short as 30 seconds). This of course is just one more thing that can go wrong. So, I'd put in a three way switch for timer based shut off, bypass (meaning 12V+ goes directly to the coil resistor, not through the timer) and a circuit break position (complete disconnect) to eliminate the need for disconnecting the red wire I mentioned above.Last edited by wittsend; 08-09-2016, 06:45 PM.'64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.Comment
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I have an ll87 LS that I used for a time on the '55 Prez that was converted to 12 volts. This unit was originally purchased from Ted Harbit way back when and is applicable to the early mid 1950's distributors. It uses no "collar" on the distributor lobe/shaft. Do you know of any way to test this using a multi volt/ohm meter?Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
It's still sitting in the distributor that is out of the car...Comment
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Technically, the points (and the Pertronix) just 'interrupt' the current flow through the coil (going to ground).
The 'interruption' of the current flow causes the current to seek the next easiest path to ground, which is through the secondary coil windings, and out through the spark plug wires and through the spark plug.
Originally posted by wittsend View PostHTIH (Hope The Info Helps)
Jeff
Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)Comment
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Problem solved...I installed a Ballast Resister. Oddly enough, the Pertronix installation instructions show the red wire to the unit installed BEFORE the Resistor...Comment
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"Where people get into trouble is they take the red, 12 volt positive wire for the Pertronix and connect it to the resistor-ed side of the power going to the coil."Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
I think that is what wittsend was saying, the other way round.South Lompoc StudebakerComment
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If the Pertronix module doesn't see full battery voltage, you could have hard starting or intermittent misfires. I run a wire from the ignition terminal on the ignition switch to the red wire on the Pertronix module if the car is equipped with a resistor wire instead of the porcelain ballast resistor. That way I'm sure that full battery voltage is getting to the module. BudComment
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