converting to 200R4 transmission

[M15 Trucker]

If you're converting a 289 with manual transmission to a 200R4 lockup transmission, would you need to replace the flywheel with one made for the 200R4?

Is it very difficult to convert a manual column shift to a auto floor shift?

[64V-K7]

You would need to remove your flywheel and replace it with a flex plate that fits the 200-4R converter. There is no actual flywheel on an automatic, just the converter

[Mike Van Veghten]

There's a couple of guys making the "kit".
They include -
The main adapter plate and special fasteners (as required).
New GM flexplate.
Flexplate adapter.

You can buy the adapter with or without the Ford Starter, but you'll need one no matter where you buy it.

A new trans. crossmember, and driveshaft or driveshaft modification.
Then is the TV cable adapters to attach it to the carburetor.

Well worth the effort.

Mike

[PackardV8]

It's scary you're having to ask these questions. Are you quite sure you're ready for this project?

If you're converting a 289 with manual transmission to a 200R4 lockup transmission, would you need to replace the flywheel with one made for the 200R4?

Yes, the auto trans flexplate is a completely different piece than a standard flywheel.

You didn't ask this, but flexplate bolts are different/shorter than flywheel bolts. The oil pan has to be removed to R&R bolts.

Is it very difficult to convert a manual column shift to a auto floor shift?

Maybe you're asking if one should just pull off the column shift mechanism and build in a floor shifter for the 200-4R? If so, yes. The U-Pik yards are full of GM auto floor shifters which are easy to install and inexpensive enough to please a CASO.

The BowTieOverdrive TV cable bracket and instructions are expensive for what you get, but if one has never done it may be well worth the cost.

Since the 200-4R came behind a variety of engines, the governor shift points can be higher RPM than necessary for a Stude V8. Most transmission shops have a bucket full of used governors. Larger weights shift at lower RPMs.

jack vines

[karterfred88]

If you're converting a 289 with manual transmission to a 200R4 lockup transmission, would you need to replace the flywheel with one made for the 200R4?

Is it very difficult to convert a manual column shift to a auto floor shift?

My first thought would be for you to look at the differences between a manual and automatic in the factory parts manual, then figure the cost of a kit, as there is no real, pure, bolt on way to go from a manual to an automatic other than the original factory trans, and even that will take a lot of parts. Has been done many times, but it is a big and sometimes costly endeavor. Depends a lot on your tools, skill and space availability. Not a job to try in your driveway on your back with a car on jack stands.

[wittsend]

Here is the above mentioned type of CASO adaptation of a column shifter to a floor shifter. The shifter is from a mid 90's Camaro. The console from a mid 80's Cadillac Seville -cut down 2". I had to make brackets (from Home Depot Simpson strong ties) to fit the tunnel angles. My application was a '64 Daytona. The shifter is cable actuated.Not hard to do, but since the convertor locks up by grounding with a pressure switch you need a relay also set to trigger from that same grounding to then pass current through to the light.
If you are using the floor shifter in a truck there could be significant bending over because the typically available car version is likely rather short for a truck. Not readily seen in the interior shot the original column shifter position indicator light was converted to comer on when the convertor lock-up.

As to the TV Cable. I used the factory cable and fabricated my own adjustable mount from angle iron. I used an Edelbrock carb and through much labor got my homemade bracket as close to the specs. as possible (it is both angle AND distance from the throttle center-line). I believe it was Art Carr transmissions that has good TV Cable info. So far no problems with it. There are other aspects of the swap including the trans mount, the driveshaft, potential filler tube alterations (I encountered this), cooler and lines etc. And my installation was not complicated be having to adapt to a Studebaker engine since I already had a 350 Chevy installed.

[64V-K7]

I had to make brackets (from Home Depot Simpson strong ties) to fit the tunnel angles.

My kind of guy....... I have the same shifter on my Avanti (350/700R4)...

[M15 Trucker]

The floor shifter would go on a 1964 Dayton convertible with the center console. the Studebaker floor shifter linkage would have to be adapted to the 200R4 or custom made.

[Lynn]

First, the 200-4R trannies are getting harder to find. MOST of them are not at all heavy duty from the factory (other than the few that came in the Buick GN). Yes, there are a lot of builders that improve them to live behind a V8. But they are relatively expensive. Most trans shops at one time considered them to be "disposable". I have a friend who owns an independent trans shop and he probably sent 1,000 plus of them to the metal recycle yard, as there was no market for them... until all the GM guys with turbo 350 transmissions figured out it was almost a bolt in to replace with the 200-4R, giving them an OD fourth gear, and allowing them to keep a relatively low rear gear (3.73 or lower) and still cruise comfortably at highway speeds. The swap became so popular, that there are almost no cores left, given that so many were recycled.

As a result, several of the more prominent builders have even suspended sales of the 200-4R unless you furnish your own core. On top of that, if you don't get the TV geometry set up EXACTLY correct, you can burn one up in and afternoon. Lastly, everyone that does this swap ends up having to find a compromise (what I usually consider a goofy compromise) for the lock up converter. MANY of the sellers have an option for a non lock up converter, but it seems REALLY dumb to me to go to the trouble of an auto trans with OD, and then leave part of the fuel economy bonus on the table by using a traditional converter. Does the car still have a 3.07:1 rear axle gear? If so, that trans is a horrible choice, as you will be lugging the engine at highway speed in OD. If you are hell bent on an automatic with overdrive, a better choice would be the 4L60E. That trans was used in millions of GM trucks and Suburbans throughout the 90's. I bought a remanufactured one out of a wrecked truck with less than 6 months use for $300 with the converter. Of course, because it is electronically controlled, I had to buy a stand alone controller ($600), a TPS set up to hook up a signal from my carb ($70), and an aftermarket speedo motor to turn the VSS signal into motion for my mechanical speedo ($300). The controller is programable, so I can choose shift firmness, and choose what speed the converter locks up. Still ahead of the game, as the good built up 200-4R transmissions are normally $1300 to $2000. First gear is lower on the 4L60E, and might work OK with your 3.07 screw (assuming that is what you have). OD is also not quite as high (resulting in slightly more RPM at highway speeds) but my GUESS is that it is still too much OD for your car. I have this set up behind a 350 in my 68 El Camino with a 3.36 rear, and am very pleased with it. I built the motor for low end torque, so my cruise speed and the lock up timing is perfect. And yes, I realize part of this analysis ASSUMES you have a 3.07 rear gear. That is the number I found as the standard axle for a 64 Daytona, but then, I am new to Studebakers, so may be wrong. Still, if the rear gear is anything higher (lower number) than 3.73 or maybe 3.55, don't know how much you are going to want an OD tranny.

I realize it is your car, and you can do what you want, but I cringed when I read your first post. Convert a manual trans car to an auto? Aagh! I have personally converted at least 8 cars from auto to manual, including 6 BMW's. I can't think of a valid reason to go the other way. If I could find a way to convert Sherri's TTV12 Mercedes to a stick, I would. It would be a lot more fun to drive. Now, if your left knee gave out, or something like that, I could understand.

Personally, seeing that you already have clutch pedal, and manual trans set up, unless you now have a lower rear gear, if you have to have a four speed something behind the engine, I would opt for a four speed manual trans. You can still cut a hole in the floor and install a floor shifter and console if you want.

[sweetolbob]

posted by Lynn
If you are hell bent on an automatic with overdrive, a better choice would be the 4L60E. That trans was used in millions of GM trucks and Suburbans throughout the 90's. I bought a remanufactured one out of a wrecked truck with less than 6 months use for $300 with the converter. Of course, because it is electronically controlled, I had to buy a stand alone controller ($600), a TPS set up to hook up a signal from my carb ($70), and an aftermarket speedo motor to turn the VSS signal into motion for my mechanical speedo ($300). The controller is programable, so I can choose shift firmness, and choose what speed the converter locks up. Still ahead of the game, as the good built up 200-4R transmissions are normally $1300 to $2000. First gear is lower on the 4L60E, and might work OK with your 3.07 screw (assuming that is what you have). OD is also not quite as high (resulting in slightly more RPM at highway speeds) but my GUESS is that it is still too much OD for your car. I have this set up behind a 350 in my 68 El Camino with a 3.36 rear

ABSOLUTELY!!!! Agree. The 4L series E were used in larger cars and trucks into this century and finding a good one in a wrecking yard should be quite easy. With Lynn's suggestions you should have a very driveable car for years to come. Just be careful the bolt pattern on the tranny housing is correct for your application.

Bob

[Swifster]

Again, your car your money...

Short of MAYBE putting a 4-Speed in your convertible, anything else would probably decrease the value. I'm far from a purist, but...

IF you are determined to put an auto in the Daytona, go with the 4L60E, BUT, also to an upgraded rebuild. Monster transmission sells completely rebuilt
transmissions or kits to DIY. There are kits that will make this a mostly bolt in proposition. As mentioned, there are stand alone controllers. You can
program the shifts where you want them.

I'm putting a 4L60E behind a Chevy V6 in my Commander. You'll want one that bolts up to a V8 or a 90* V6. Be careful because GM also used these
behind 60* (2.8L, 3.1L and 3.4L) V6's. Some of these transmissions may require altering the floor. This isn't a big deal on a $700 Commander. It's a
little different with a Daytona convertible.

Last, and this is just me...yeah, buckets are sexy, but I would keep the bench seat and get an automatic column to swap in. Nothing better than keeping
your cup holder by your side.

[53Baker]

Looks good, I'm thinking of doing something similar, Good job.