Wheels / Tires: Auto Transport: Wooden Wheels: Require special handling?

[tomhoo]

What do you do differently when binding a wooden wheeled car for transport.

Looking at how they bind loops on the tops of wheels, I'm concerned about the binding force component that is trying to pull the wheel outward, off the axle.

[doofus]

Helped transport 2 Stude wagons in closed trailer for years.made blocks for wheels holding front, back, both sides. then tied straight out front and back. strip over wheel between side blocks kept it from hopping out of chocks. good luck, Doofus

[tomhoo]

Doofus, thanks for the advice. Sounds like you came up with a specialized method - any particular reason why you departed from conventional bindings.

I did have trouble visualizing you rigging:

Helped transport 2 Stude wagons in closed trailer for years.made blocks for wheels holding front, back, both sides.

You made a nest: chocks fore and aft, and blocks on the sides of each wheel OR blocks only on the outboard sides of the wheels?

then tied straight out front and back.

Straps on center of axles OR ???

strip over wheel between side blocks kept it from hopping out of chocks.

This one I'm a little unclear on - did you fasten the blocks and chocks to the deck somehow otherwise the blocks would simply get pushed aside if the wheel tried to move. Chocks on the other hand wedge and stop the wheel.

"strap over wheel between side blocks" - just can't visualize, I could see it longitudinal or transverse.

Does sound like 1 strap per wheel though.

good luck, Doofus

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I don't like the idea of blocks on the sides of the wheels assuming they are fastened to the deck. That would make them like a curb which will destroy a steel wheel if some side impact load occurs and the wheel slams into a block.

The safest way theoretically would be to have the car with lock brakes simply on the deck - however that could never be done for obvious reasons. But the strapping down of the wheels from the tops could be OK as long as excessive force is not used AND the straps are somewhat elastic - if they don't give a millimeter, they will transmit large impact loads into the wheels.

I'd like a binding that was not 100% rigid since I'm hoping leaving the car in gear will free up the engine as the car moves around on the deck during transport.

One person who has transported a few wooden and wire wheeled cars said just treat them like any other car.

[doofus]

thot you were talking about BUGGIES with wooden wheels, cars with wood spokes get same treatment as steel rims. worked for us! Doofus

[jclary]

I wonder how many of us, who have not routinely trailered a vehicle, take for granted the effort and difficulties required. I know I did. For years, I watched wrecker drivers, roll backs, and car haulers on the road. I've seen them regularly at car shows. I always thought, "How great, to be able to trailer to (especially long distance) events, while comfortably riding in a modern, air-conditioned, tow vehicle.

Then, I lucked up on a good deal on a trailer. The trailer, like most of my "good deals", required some work. I repaired, painted, and re-floored the trailer. The first time I attempted to haul one of my vehicles, I was mortified at how unprepared, inexperienced, and ignorant I was with the process. First, was aligning the wheels to roll up the ramps. Next, was how careful you had to be, opening the doors, to get in and out. Then, just where to hook, and how much force to use in locking down the chains. Getting the load balanced, and adjusting the trailer brake bias.

In short, it turns out to have a whole set of efforts, anxieties, and risks, I had never given too much thought, until I was faced with the task. Since then, I have enjoyed using the trailer to haul tractors, and various other tasks. I have yet to use it for car shows or Studebaker meets.

Depending on how fragile, I felt a set of vintage wooden spoked Automobile wheels were, I might treat them like standard wheels. However, If I thought they were at risk of damage, I might build a special clamp/support to attach to the usually "over built" "I" beam straight front axle most of these era cars use. I would probably do something similar to the rear axle housing as well. That would include elevating the vehicle enough to take the load off the wheels, or removing the wheels for transport. Some might think this is an extreme measure, but given the value of many of the vehicles of this era, extreme care is understandable.

[tomhoo]

You have to be careful when you're talking to Studebaker folks seein' as how they made covered wagons too!

Thanks

I guess the bottom line is that its a car and it has wheels and they have to be sturdy.

[tomhoo]

Oh yes about owning your own trailer, etc. The enclosed ones are real nightmares. I saw a guy put a Dodge Viper in an enclosed and those car are wide - just a few inches on either side. You should have seen the Freak Show of the jockey-sized driver getting out of the car through the door window and then slithering over the quarter, spreading his weight out on a blanket.

The ultimate might be block the frame solid at a height anything above its normal ride height. But that is a lot of work. Cribbage is not usually employed when transporting cars.

But the loosey goosey breaking a stuck engine free is a real bonus.

I think I've got my answer.