I searched the forum looking for info on torquing the rear axle hub nut on my 49 2R5 because page 150 in the shop manual says 120-130 ft lbs, but the torque chart in the back of the manual says 240-250 ft lbs. I found a post from Robert Crandall from last September that has raised another question. Why no grease on the shaft or bore? Is there really a chance of slippage, straining the key and keyway?
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1949 2r5 28196
170ci 6cyl
4spd -
The hub needs to go on dry. If you grease it the hub will crack. I have a torque wrench just for that because mine are spec'd to 175 ft/lbs59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
64 Zip Van
66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
66 Cruiser V-8 auto -
This point cant be stressed enough, hub goes on dry, axle dry, key dry taper in and down. don't ask how we know just take our words of advice, hub's/ drum's getting scarce!!! DoofusComment
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Torque to 170, then torque more until the holes line up.Skip LackieComment
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Thanks everyone. What's the preferred method to keep the axle from turning while torquing the nut?1949 2r5 28196
170ci 6cyl
4spdComment
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Once you've gotten past 100 ft-lbs or so, you can lower the truck far enough down to keep the tire from turning.Skip LackieComment
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How many times do you torque to 170, then think you'll break something trying to get that next constellation... ?Comment
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