Electrical: Headlights will turn off Intermittently

[63studebaker]

Hello Guys,

My name is Kyle just joined here @ SDC, I got a 1963 Studebaker Lark in on trade a few days ago and i am waiting to get it back to being a daily driver. So down too the issue at hand. my headlights seem to have a mind of there own when the car is sitting still engine not running headlight will come on and everything works ( except brake lights but ill come back to this) if you crank the car as soon as the car runs the headlights will go off and on randomly. First thoughts here was i need a dimmer switch, so replaced the switch same issue. so i started going over the wires. Wiggling the harness as i go to see if i can trigger the headlight to act up. Nothing, HOWEVER... if i wiggle the turn signal knob as if i was going to use a blinker the headlights act up. my questions to this are as follows

1. What could be causing the issue in the Steering column?

2. What would i be looking at for this type of repair.

Also the brake lights i havent gotten to work at all, maybe a new brake switch? or fix headlight issue and see where that puts me at with the tail light.
Thanks in advance and look forward to growing and learning here at SDC

[karterfred88]

That is an odd one-the headlight circuit shouldn't be affected by the signal switch. Probably a short here's a link to the wiring diagram, very basic electricals so you should be able to trace it. Keep in mind solid white wires are GROUNDS no black, https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...wire-COLOR.pdf I do see there is a green from H/L switch and from directional--if some how one got crossed to the wrong one--maybe

[Skip Lackie]

You have a short somewhere, a bad light switch, or a bad breaker. The on/off cycle is caused by the headlight circuit breaker, which shuts down when the short circuit causes the amperage draw to get too high, but then turns the juice back on when the short circuit is prevented by its own actions. If the headlights stay on for more than a quick flash, you have a partial short that could be in the light switch itself, between two wires inside a harness, or even in the connector at the back of a headlight. Start unplugging things until you find it and the light(s) stay on. I believe the breaker is attached to the back of the headlight switch, but after 50 years, who knows? And of course, I could be wrong (I don't have a 63).

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

On a '63, the headlight circuit breaker is attached to the back side of the dash board on the very far left side. The breaker fits in a formed sheet metal piece that has a clip feature that slips into a hole of the back of the dash.

[JoeHall]

Just on a whim, I'd start by replacing the headlight, 20 amp circuit breaker. While at it, I'd replace it with a 30 amp. It likely could benefit from a new CB anyway, and it may just fix the problem.

[rstrasser]

63Studebaker.
You said the head lights stay on until the engine is running. Do the tail and instrument lights also go out?
They all are powered through the same circuit breaker. If all the lights go out What it sound like too me.once the engine is running the system voltage increase; therefore the head light get brighter and draw more current. Tripping the previously mentioned circuit breaker. If all the light do not go out; check out the headlight switch and the wiring to the dimmer. There could also be a short someplace in the headlight circuit and the increased voltage causes it to draw enough current to trip the circuit breaker.
As for the brake lights. Join the 2 wires that are on the brake light switch and see if the brake lights illuminate.
The brake and directional lights are on a different circuit from the head lights.
Ron

[64V-K7]

Just on a whim, I'd start by replacing the headlight, .....replace it with a 30 amp.

I don't think the factory wiring could support 30 amps

[karterfred88]

Well the circuit breaker is popping, but the strange part is he says the headlights try to turn on when the stalk for the signals is jiggled. There must be some cross over from the parking light/directional circuits to the headlamp circuit. I gave him a link to the wiring diagram, probably will need to trace all the lamp wires to see if he can find the short. A circuit breaker upgrade will probably just help him find the short when the wires melt.

[55s]

Try tail light bulb not fully turned in.

[GrumpyOne]

I had the same issue with the Power Hawk about twenty years ago and since I've owned since 1966 and upon a closer look decided that many of the factory connections were suspect. I proceeded to disconnect and clean every connection and all of the issues went away.

Another consideration is the type of headlights that are installed. If they are halogen, the chances for problems are greatly increased as well..

[jclary]

Here is a link to the thread, of a similar problem, I posted this past March. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...s+embarrassing

You mentioned your brake lights are not working properly either. My truck has "aftermarket" turn signals. When I wired them up, years ago, the wiring involved the brake light switch, since the brake light element in the tail light bulbs is the same for the turn signals. I'm wondering if something in your signal circuit is crossed up causing the brake lights to not work too. Is there a "short to ground" causing the circuit breaker to trip?

My situation was, due to a live bare wire touching the frame, resulting in a direct short. One of the most dangerous things you can have on a vehicle. If not for the circuit breaker...my truck could have turned into a giant toaster.

[JoeHall]

I don't think the factory wiring could support 30 amps

It has became standard procedure for me to install a new 30 amp CB in any newly acquired Stude. I suppose a new wiring harness may be a good idea, but a 30 amp CB has never failed to stop the problem. Even the 56J I owned in high school in the late 1960s, had the dreaded on/off headlight syndrome. Back then, I had no idea what the problem was, but learned it would not happen if I left the lights on low beam.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

Good idea to change out the 20 amp circuit breaker. They sometimes do get old and weak.
NOT A GOOD IDEA TO INCREASE IT'S SIZE. The wiring is designed for a max of 20 amp load.
You do not need a giant toaster.

[JoeHall]

Good idea to change out the 20 amp circuit breaker. They sometimes do get old and weak.
NOT A GOOD IDEA TO INCREASE IT'S SIZE. The wiring is designed for a max of 20 amp load.
You do not need a giant toaster.

OK, I will go take them all out then

[gordr]

There was a known problem with headlight circuit breakers in the 1963 models. The breaker is just barely adequate in ideal conditions. Recommended solution: buy a "dual headlight relay", which used to be a commonplace aftermarket part, or failing that, two of the ubiquitous Bosch "cube" relays. One relay (or half the dual unit) for low beams, and the other for the high beams. This will allow you to run high-wattage halogen headlights if you wish, and reduces the current load on the factory 20-amp breaker to an amp or two for tail + park and instrument lamps. If you buy new relays, there should be a wiring diagram packed with them.