Drive shaft disconnect

[thunderations]

Last year we towed the 66 Daytona behind the motorhome using a dolly and taking the drive shaft loose at the differential. Took in car shows across the country including the St Louis International. Had admirers at all the RV parks and anywhere else we stopped. Traveled almost 6000 miles with the Daytona and no problems.
I would like to tow it on all 4 wheels this year with a high tech tow bar and not have to crawl under the car every time to hook up or unhook the drive shaft. I have the tow bar connectors for the car engineered and ready to build and install.
I've been eyeing the Remco drive shaft disconnect system and wondered if anyone has tried this on a Studebaker. This way all that needs to happen is to pull a knob to unhook the drive shaft and push it back in to re-connect. No more crawling under the car every time.
All of this is easily removed and the original drive shaft put back in.
I believe the rear end is a Dana 44 and should be able to acquire a kit for it. Just have to have a special drive shaft built.
Any thoughts or experiences are appreciated.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Looks like a trans spline slider setup... Nothing scary in their literature...

http://www.remcodsc.com/driveShaft.php

[StudeRich]

So I take it this is a Automatic Transmission Car?

A Manual would not be much of worry, but if an Overdrive I don't think I would chance it, connected on the ground.

This may be your choice, but for me I would just use (a) (my) Auto Transport Trailer and not fool with a Custom Driveshaft.

Do not forget that all Dana 44 Axle to Driveshaft Yokes/Flanges are (OOPS, NOT) alike, if this thing is designed for a Jeep, Chev. or Ford Truck Flange, there could be a problem there.

[thunderations]

Correct. That is the unit. Of course their application chart doesn't include 50 year old Studebakers for some reason, so I will need to take the car to them to see if they have a compatible kit. Guessing that most Dana 44's are similar enough and that many other manufacturers used them, making a kit available.

[thunderations]

An option, but a poor one since many RV parks don't have long enough spaces for 20 foot of trailer and 40 foot of coach, plus hauling an extra ton of trailer for no reason. Unhooking a tow bar takes seconds while trying to back a trailer behind the coach is a pain in the trunk area. The Daytona is an automatic. Knowing there could be differences in rear housings is my reason for taking the car to the Remco distributor to get the right part, if available.

So I take it this is a Automatic Transmission Car?

A Manual would not be much of worry, but if an Overdrive I don't think I would chance it, connected on the ground.

This may be your choice, but for me I would just use (a) (my) Auto Transport Trailer and not fool with a Custom Driveshaft.

Do not forget that all Dana 44 Axle to Driveshaft Yokes/Flanges are alike, if this thing is designed for a Jeep, Chev. or Ford Truck Flange, there could be a problem there.

[bezhawk]

Been there done that...DON'T try it!!! Studebakers with their caster settings DO NOT TRACK AROUND CORNERS! Keep the front wheels on a dolly. You will thank me later. The front wheels turn to opposite lock when going around sharp turns, and they do not return to center.

[thunderations]

Even if I continue to use the dolly, I still need to find a better way of disconnecting the drive shaft. Have you used or know of anyone using this type of manual disconnect on a Studebaker?

Been there done that...DON'T try it!!! Studebakers with their caster settings DO NOT TRACK AROUND CORNERS! Keep the front wheels on a dolly. You will thank me later. The front wheels turn to opposite lock when going around sharp turns, and they do not return to center.

[53k]

Been there done that...DON'T try it!!! Studebakers with their caster settings DO NOT TRACK AROUND CORNERS! Keep the front wheels on a dolly. You will thank me later. The front wheels turn to opposite lock when going around sharp turns, and they do not return to center.

Amen to what Bez says! I tried to pull my '53 Commander Starliner from California to Kansas many years ago. Most of the time it was only a white knuckle experience, but several times it was a change your underwear experience. Once it was costly. When I tried to turn in to a gas station on a slippery surface the 53's reluctance to turn caused me to jack knife into a street sign which caught the '53 in the grille breaking both NOS grille mouldings and grille bars. At that point I got her in the unheated '53 to steer for about 300 miles while I pulled it. Needless to say, she wasn't a happy camper and I still hear about how cold she got. Finally I gave up, unhooked the '53, reattached the driveshaft and the wife and I drove both cars the rest of the way.

[sweetolbob]

X3 ^^^^ on what Brad and Paul said. Pulled my 54K out of South Carolina on a tow bar many moons back and had the same thing happen. I couldn't get a rental dolly fast enough.

[thunderations]

Pulling the dolly isn't a problem. Just thought I could possibly eliminate it from the equation.
The forum works wonders when a question like this comes up.
Thanks to all that poo-pooed the tow bar idea before I went further with it.
I will go ahead and see if I can get a Remco drive shaft disconnect to fit the Studebaker rear differential housing. That alone will make life much easier.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Flat towed a lot of Stude's a lot of miles... (and tow truck towed a LOT of cars back in the day)

Used to take a wrap around the steering wheel with a bungee cord and pull it out the door and slam the door on the bungee cord.
Allowed some wheel movement but always pulled it back center.
Never had a full rack event after doing that.

But... That was a long time ago, and we all know that old stuff and old ways are no good since the Internet came along..

[Pat Dilling]

Just a thought, is it possible/practical to back a car onto the tow dolly, secure the car's steering and use a set of magnetic tail lights? In most cases that is how conventional tow trucks have pulled cars for years. Why wouldn't it work towed behind a motorhome?

[sweetolbob]

Flat towed a lot of Stude's a lot of miles... (and tow truck towed a LOT of cars back in the day)

Used to take a wrap around the steering wheel with a bungee cord and pull it out the door and slam the door on the bungee cord.
Allowed some wheel movement but always pulled it back center.
Never had a full rack event after doing that.

But... That was a long time ago, and we all know that old stuff and old ways are no good since the Internet came along..

Flat towed our 55 Chevy drag car all over Michigan doing exactly that back in the day. Thought nothing of doing the same with the 54K. Did exactly the same thing with the bungee and it went just fine until I filled up with gas on a State highway. Waited until traffic had cleared, turned left to get on the highway, 54K wheels turned right and the break in traffic didn't look so big. 90 V6 pickup could hardly skid the car along. You don't need to experience this more than once to rent a dolly after changing your shorts.

[1oldtimer]

I have to agree with StudeRich on the car trailer. To me it's not worth the extra wear and tear on the rear end/tires and to modify the drive shaft. Maybe a small lightweight car trailer with a good solid filled all terrain tire jack and have a removable bar to push it around.

[thunderations]

That is probably an option, but if the steering made to track going forward is questionable, how bad would it be going backwards? I think most of the cars towed backwards are being towed a short distance, not over the interstate highways for hundreds of miles. Also, the tail lights on the dolly take care of the lighting problem. I don't need to wire the car lights to work even if it were towed backwards.

Just a thought, is it possible/practical to back a car onto the tow dolly, secure the car's steering and use a set of magnetic tail lights? In most cases that is how conventional two trucks have pulled cars for years. Why wouldn't it work towed behind a motorhome?