Steering: Modern power steering in a 1962 Lark

[1962larksedan]

Greetings; I have been incognito for a while.

Some months ago I almost bought a 1962 Lark sedan but decided to pass on it due to needing quite a bit of (body) work.

I am contemplating another one; here is my question, does anybody offer a late model power steering conversion, be it either recirculating ball or rack and pinion? For obvious reasons; I want to stay away from the linkage assist style, especially being I want to swap in a ca. 1992 Chevy 305 TBI with matching 700R4 transmission.

The car will be a daily driver.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Have you ever driven a '62 Lark with well maintained manual steering? I'm not sure how Studebaker EVER sold power steering in these cars. The manual steering is light and precise.

What are the obvious reasons you don't want the stock type of power steering?

If you don't want to use stock Lark parts, you will have to invent and fabricate something else. Not a very easy task and prone to some bad steering and handling manners.

[StudeRich]

My question would be whats the worst that could happen if you do drop a Chevy. engine in and you have the stock Studebaker/Ford/Bendix power steering...you have to have a P/S hose shop, custom make two of the four hoses to fit the Chevy. pump on one end and and the Stude. control valve on the other, big deal! That will be the least of your worries, trust me! [:0]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[PackardV8]

Greetings, 1962larksedan,

Agree with Rich and Dick. The Lark standard steering was low-effort, albeit a bit slow. With the SBC being 100# lighter than a Stude V8, PS is not a requirement. If you feel you have to have it, the OEM setup with all new parts worked well.

FWIW, I have seen more Studes made worse by steering and front end modifications than I have seen improved. One new Stude owner spent many thousands installing a widely advertised aftermarket front suspension kit and was so disappointed with the result, he sold the car and got out of Studes. I drove another with a rack-and-pinion installation which had dangerous levels of bump steer. Your car, your money, your decision, but proceed with caution and drive a car which has your proposed modification before changing anything.

Just to refresh our memories, what year did the Larks go to the Saginaw steering box?

thnx, jack vines

PackardV8

[StudeRich]

Jack; I do not like the term "Saginaw Steering gear" to reference the "Saginaw Recirculating Ball Steering Gear", because people seem to get it all confused with the Saginaw "Power" steering Gear that was used 1953-1957 in Sedans and '53-'59 in C/K & Hawks.

But [u]most</u> of us do know what you mean, it was 1961-1966 only non-C/K bodies! [^]

An interesting side note, I got thinking about ratios, and wanted to refresh my memory on what models and years had the "quick ratio" (I use that term VERY loosely!), and which did not.

I found that only non-power steering '63 & on Wagons (both Wagonaire & non) and '61 & on Convertibles use the 1551476 slow steer (easy steer) 24.1 to box, all the rest power & non, 6 Cyl. & 8 get the standard (quicker) 20.1 to 1 box! These both are known as the type "S" Saginaw, the big "S" on the gearbox does NOT mean Studebaker!

quote:Originally posted by PackardV8

Just to refresh our memories, what year did the Larks go to the Saginaw steering box?

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[PackardV8]

Hi, Rich,

Thanks for the confirmation on the dates of the Saginaw Recirculating Ball Steering Gear. If I owned a '61-up Lark, as our new friend does, I wouldn't consider PS. The last '63V8 with 195/75x15 radials I drove steered and parked easily without PS.

Having said that, if, along with the SBC, our friend is considering very wide radial tires, at some point PS might come back into the equation.

thnx, jv.

PackardV8

[1962larksedan]

Trust me: I prefer to stay as close to 'stock' as possible, just that I like 3.5 ratio steering which usually necessitates power assist. And too, I am no big fan of '5 million pieces in my steering linkage' either

I am a brake, suspension and alignment tech by trade.

Memo to PackardV8; no wide tires for me.......I was thinking in terms of a P205/75R15, tops mounted on a 15" x 6" OEM offset steel rim, let the Bling crowd keep their 'Dub's'.

The reason I am looking at a 305/700R4 combo is so I do not have to pitch the stock 3:36 to 1 rear end yet still have a ghost of a chance of knocking down 20 MPG @ 65+ MPH.

[PackardV8]

Hi, 1962larksedan,

FWIW, I have run 215/75R15 on 6" FoMoCo rims on my Avanti, which is the same chassis as your Lark. They fit fine, aren't hard to steer.

Since you are a tech, you might look around for a longer pitman arm which will fit the Saginaw box. I bought a 1956 Power Hawk which a local racer had lengthened the pitman arm on the Ross box. I would not recommend welding on steering linkage, but he knew his stuff. He cut one arm close to the bottom eye, one close to the top eye, beveled the edges, welded them together and the now-longer arm got a quicker ratio. He and then I drove the car HARD for 100kmi. and it is still there.

You might also consider the shorter knuckle arms which fit on the kingpin. These are available from Stude vendors and quicken the steering ratio.

BTW, a fresh, well-tuned Studebaker 259" V8 with a 700R4 will get 20mpg @ 65 mph all day long. Been there, done that.

thnx, jv.

PackardV8

[Frank Starr]

The linkage type PS may look a little unsophisticated, but you'd be amazed when you drive it. Mine, on my 64 Cruiser, is absolutely creamy smooth, like a hot knife through butter. It couldn't be better. And I drive the car everyday. Here it is sitting in the office parking lot, just doing it's job and needing a wash.

[buddymander]

Here's a Mitsubishi box in my 62 Hawk. With shortened arms and a big sway bar, it's def Y2K compatible [img][/img]

[PackardV8]

Very interesting. How about an underneath photo of how it all connects together?

thnx, jv

PackardV8

[1962larksedan]

Me likey: and the best part is said Mitsu box looks [u]stock</u>.

I am guessing it came from an older 4WD Mitsubishi pickup/Montero?

[buddymander]

The tie rod and the steering rod actually run closer to parallel when the tires are on the ground. I heated and bent the steering arms to make them like the quick arms. That brought the tie rod forward so I could make the pitman arm longer. The Pitman arm is 5 1/2" C to C. There's an offset, and it's also angled. I bolted a short piece of angle to where the original steering damper hooked and welded a piece of the ford spindle to it. 92 Mitsu Montero and 72 ford 1/2 T pitman arm. It's overkill, I know, but that's what I had lying around. You can test drive it and see how awesome it is the next time you're in Harbor City[img][/img]

[sbca96]

That steering makes me a little uneasy, did you heat up the steering
arms and bend them? I believe they are forged parts, that will change
the temper of the metal and could cause a failure/crack/fatigue. Its
a risky practice to heat up suspension components.

There ARE a couple of options between 15 inch wheels and "DUBS".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dub_(wheel)

A dub is a rim thats 20 inches or larger, most factory cars these days
have at least a 17 inch wheel. 17 or 18 are the "norm". 16 inch will
make a world of difference in handling and tire choices are cheap. If
you stick to 17 as a max, tire prices are still cheap. 18 inch is a
nice size for Studebakers, because the larger size should clear the
upper outer front steel bushing and not cause rim contact with widths
of 8 inches or more. Sticking to a 4.5 max back spacing should clear.

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[PackardV8]

Greetings, All,

As always, your car, your money, your choice. Just remember, wheel and tire sizes are half science and half sales. Those of us who started in early Fords remember 1928 with 21" to 1930 with 19" and so on to 16" to 15" to 14" on 1958 full-size Fords and the 1960 Falcon even went to 13". Then, it started back upsizing and suddenly it's 1930 and we're talking 19" again.

FWIW, to many old guys, an 18"-22" rim with rubber-band-thickness tires on a Studebaker can look like a grandmother in a mini-skirt. I personally prefer the 16"-17" with a taller tire, minimum of 55-series. Right now, I'm running 255/55R16" on 8" custom Halibrand rims and they do it for me.

One caveat, a very few Avantis (such as Karl's)and custom Studes have been shown in magazines with 'dubs'. Their car, their money, their choice.

thnx, jv.

PackardV8