Fuel System: Fuel Pump Question

[thunderations]

The fuel pump in my 1963 Daytona with the OHV inline six cylinder has started to leak small amounts of fuel out of the vent hole on the side. It still pumps fuel to the carb and it runs fine. Expecting to find a Carter fuel pump and a corresponding number on the flange, I was instead greeted by a big AC on top. Removed the pump and found the numbers: 4798KJ

I just drove the car on a 400 mile round trip with no fuel issues, but noticed the small spurts of fuel from the vent hole after returning home.

My plan was to order a rebuild kit from one of our vendors and rebuild it.

Any idea what my plan should be now? Are there kits for the AC pump.

Any info from the experts is greatly appreciated.

Ken

[zbutch]

Fuel coming from the vent hole usually means a small hole in the diaphragm. A rebuild kit should take care of the problem.

[thunderations]

My thoughts exactly, but it's not a Carter fuel pump, so our vendors don't seem to be of help. Any idea who supplies AC fuel pump kits?

Fuel coming from the vent hole usually means a small hole in the diaphragm. A rebuild kit should take care of the problem.

[r1lark]

Check with these folks: http://then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/

They will need the numbers stamped on the flange of the pump, and from that they can tell you if they have a kit for it. Looks like they have changed their website, and I really couldn't make heads or tails of it, but I have bought a number of kits from them in the past with no issues.

[RadioRoy]

You probably already know this, but it may also be leaking fuel into the crankcase. That will dilute the oil and shorten main and rod bearing life.

[thunderations]

I will call them on Monday because if I provide the car info on their web search, it comes up as needing a Carter fuel pump. Thanks for the info.

Check with these folks: http://then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/

They will need the numbers stamped on the flange of the pump, and from that they can tell you if they have a kit for it. Looks like they have changed their website, and I really couldn't make heads or tails of it, but I have bought a number of kits from them in the past with no issues.

[thunderations]

That's the first thing I checked and it looks like the leak is only through the vent hole, not into the crankcase. I will, however, change oil and filter upon replacing the fuel pump just in case. Thanks for mentioning it.

You probably already know this, but it may also be leaking fuel into the crankcase. That will dilute the oil and shorten main and rod bearing life.

[christophe]

I have the same pump on my 63S and just ordered a kit from them. The kit # is FPA 223 and the price is 37,50$ plus shipping. I haven't used the kit yet but the quality is OK and well worth the price.

[doofus]

Have done this several times with decent results. only problem being sometimes pumps wont work "Dry". A shot of wd40 on check valves solves this, luck, Doofus

[thunderations]

Contacted them this morning and ordered the kit. Thanks again.

I have the same pump on my 63S and just ordered a kit from them. The kit # is FPA 223 and the price is 37,50$ plus shipping. I haven't used the kit yet but the quality is OK and well worth the price.

[thunderations]

Got the rebuild kit from "Then and Now". Price had gone up a little.....what's new, huh!
Anyway just completed my first fuel pump rebuild and after a couple head scratches and colorful words, it all came together.............and it works.
Thanks to all those that pitched in on this little problem.
Now I have another accomplishment to add to my resume.
I can now get back to the complete brake rebuild on the 66 Daytona.
Kind of funny, one Daytona wouldn't stop and the other Daytona wouldn't go.

[christophe]

Thanks for the follow-up.
As I'll tackle the same problem in the following days, might I know what kind of punch you used to crimp the check valves?

[thunderations]

As tight as they fit, you probably wouldn't need to crimp them, but I did use a very sharp center punch and did 4 places around each valve. Just set the punch 1/16 of an inch outside of the valve edge and tapped it until the area swelled over a little. The new valves are totally different then the old valves and are a bit of a chore to get seated. You need to get a little angry with them and they do fit. Make sure you remove the old crimps from the valve recess before trying to install the new valves.

Thanks for the follow-up.
As I'll tackle the same problem in the following days, might I know what kind of punch you used to crimp the check valves?

[christophe]

Thanks for the tip.
I started to dismantle the pump yesterday and noticed a slight problem with the parts kit. The rubber seal doesn't seem to fit with its retainer. It does with the old retainer, though.
Did you ran into the same problem?

[Mike]

Thanks for the tip.
I started to dismantle the pump yesterday and noticed a slight problem with the parts kit. The rubber seal doesn't seem to fit with its retainer. It does with the old retainer, though.
Did you ran into the same problem?

Do you mean the seal on the diaphragm stem? Did you get a flat washer instead of the cup washer to retain the seal? If "yes" and "yes", some of us ran into the same problem. Try searching for "stem seal" in the archives. If you can use your old cup washer, it works much better.
Mike M.