Well, here's the latest.
Just when I thought things were coming under control, I broke a ring on the number 8 cylinder. It dug one hell of a gouge! Judging by what I see on my borescope, I am pretty positive that a dry sleeve is needed. The block is the original, numbers match the build sheet. The real bugger is the car is a nice, original survivor. The plan had been to clean and refurbish systems to allow the car to be used and enjoyed as a...well...car.
So now, I have a chance to buy another member's R1 engine that is bolted to a T10 with a Hurst shifter mounted on it. While I will do a ring and valve job on the second engine before I swap, I need to start planning and procuring parts. I realize I will need different pedals as well as the linkage to work the clutch, the top cover on the console and the rear motor mount, what else? Is the driveshaft different?
Thanks, Ken Buchanan
Just when I thought things were coming under control, I broke a ring on the number 8 cylinder. It dug one hell of a gouge! Judging by what I see on my borescope, I am pretty positive that a dry sleeve is needed. The block is the original, numbers match the build sheet. The real bugger is the car is a nice, original survivor. The plan had been to clean and refurbish systems to allow the car to be used and enjoyed as a...well...car.
So now, I have a chance to buy another member's R1 engine that is bolted to a T10 with a Hurst shifter mounted on it. While I will do a ring and valve job on the second engine before I swap, I need to start planning and procuring parts. I realize I will need different pedals as well as the linkage to work the clutch, the top cover on the console and the rear motor mount, what else? Is the driveshaft different?
Thanks, Ken Buchanan
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