Engine: A Drippy Engine.

[drnittler]

Question: Are six cylinder ohv engines (1961 Lark) a bit oil drippy by nature? I have had mine 25 years and had it rebuilt professionally. However When I drive it, I notice oil drips (not a lot) near the rear of the engine. When I run it in place I can't find the drips. Everything is tight but this still happens. It has been driving me crazy for 25 years. Any ideas? Thanks.

[nvonada]

The classic joke is when old engines are not leaking then they are out of oil. The materials and designs of these engines just are not up to today's standards. I replaced every seal and gasket in mine and managed to reduce the leakage to a few drips now and then. Before I used to keep a collection of old pans under then engine and I had to empty them every month or two.

[christophe]

My 63S - K does not drip but it got a full rebuilt in 2011. I also use 15W40 or 20W50 engine oil and this might help a bit. My bet is a leaky valve cover. Isn't there oil traces at the rear of the cylinder head, just under the valve cover? The shop manual specifies that the rocher arm screws must be torqued 3 times at 20 in-lbs, tightening the rear nut last.

[Skybolt]

On my OHV six I found the leak was at the front and made it's way to the back with help from the motion of the car and the fan. Not to say it couldn't come from the rear. The timing cover seal is a place to check. Also the filler block. The fuel pumps are known problem areas if not an original. There are so many little places for oil to come out but they are the places I had most trouble with. Even the Champion six have the same basic layout and leak areas so someone with a Champion might have a solution.

Len

[sals54]

I can't remember fer sher, but are you still running a draft tube on that engine? Or does it have a PCV valve? If draft tube, then you'll almost certainly accumulate some oil in the tube while driving, then deposit it as drips in the driveway when parked. The draft tube only functions whilst driving. The low pressure under the car helps draw the pressure off the valley allowing oil to drain a little easier to the pan. Otherwise, its a crapshoot to find where that oil is coming from until it gets dirty enough under the hood to see it.

[studegary]

I can't remember fer sher, but are you still running a draft tube on that engine? Or does it have a PCV valve? If draft tube, then you'll almost certainly accumulate some oil in the tube while driving, then deposit it as drips in the driveway when parked. The draft tube only functions whilst driving. The low pressure under the car helps draw the pressure off the valley allowing oil to drain a little easier to the pan. Otherwise, its a crapshoot to find where that oil is coming from until it gets dirty enough under the hood to see it.

Sal - I agree with you. I first thought of the road draft tube. A 1961, in other than California (IIRC), would have a road draft tube and not a PCV system.

[345 DeSoto]

Engines were NEVER engineered to be "drippy"! All the engines I've ever assembled went together with Hylomar (among other sealants)...and none ever were "drippy". Of course, I followed the directions, which were no different from preparing the mating surfaces as I would for any other sealant...

[Commander Eddie]

Every Studebaker engine I have ever owned has been drip free once I replaced the pan gasket and the front and rear main seals. The same goes for the transmissions. When they start to drip again I just replace the gaskets and seals. Modern day materials work better than the originals so try and use new stuff. No one will ever see them.

[drnittler]

Thanks for the replies.
1.There is no leak at the back of the valve cover.
2. I have a pcv valve.
3. The engine was done professionally and the rear main is almost drip free and everything tightened up. It looks like a drip may be under the distributor and a drop on the oil pump. I figure it is probably going from front to back when the car is moving.
Thanks again.

[StudeNorm]

The drip under the distributor may mean there is a failed or missing o-ring type distributor shaft seal.

[drnittler]

I was thinking the same thing.

[JoeHall]

Every Stude or Packard V8 I have rebuilt (about a dozen) has started off pretty much drip free. The last 289 even got over 5000 miles per quart for the first 15,000-20,000 miles. Sooner or later, they start to drip, and that is OK. It takes a lot of drips to show on the dip stick, or mist the rear bumper. I just use a drip pan under each, and wipe it clean ever month or two. However, if the drips begin to puddle, larger than fist size, overnight, I look into the source. Otherwise, its a good thing, as it helps keep a light oil film on the undercarriage.

[doofus]

David, check and service the PCV system then look closely at the plate behind the timing cover. start with a clean engine and a strong light and follow the oil trail. Luck Doofus

[studebaker champ]

Forget about it it's a studebakeris'm Does anyone else remember a few years back when they passed out a bag of oil dry to everyone who registered at the international meet in south bend to keep the parking lot clean?

[kamzack]

Oil drips are part of the factory option package you got along with specific rust areas. They're options u got for free whether you wanted them or not. But doesn't take anything away from quality of the brand. I get a kick outa telling folks about the rust options when asked about rusty rockers, floors, vertical strip of rust on front
fenders and bottom of tailgate on my daily driver 61 6 Champ.
Having fun,
Kim