Idiot Deliverance oil change..

[parts2]

My back is messed up..burst discs and bulging..also getting surgery on right arm 2/9, Carpal and then Ulnar (Tommy John)..
So..

First time getting my 1953 Commander (SBC etc) oil changed by a real shop..

It started poorly as the idiot mensa tried to get the "sprayers" (windshield washers) that don't exist to work.. Guy really looked like a Deliverance movie extra.. Just that banjo grin..
Then after explaining that the aluminum key sometimes sticks..just remove and put id back in.. "No Problem"

Also use the alignment rack..

Welp..get a call..
Idiot Mensa has bent the key 90* and they are "trying" to get it out..
They did..and I have 1 spare..

Is it possible to get another blank ?

First time I let anyone touch one of my hot rods.. Next time renting a lift and doing it myself..

signed..

A trusting moron..

[Dads Baby]

I had the same 2 hand/arm surgeries several years ago. I had no feeling in my left hand and half my arm. They told me that I may not have feeling in my hand for maybe 3 months after the surgery. Only took 3 days! Don't push it with the recovery. I am not one to sit around waiting to heal. Your hand will tell you when you should have listened to your doctor!

[parts2]

Thanks Carey..
I play guitar..and will miss greatly not playing until healing.. I am getting the Stude and my 53 Jag XK120 set for the next little bit. This is perfect weather here in AZ now..
No Jag (4 spd) no guitar..no working in garage..

Not looking forward to this

[christophe]

Studebaker International has them.
525810
1947-59 models
with Yale lock.
Same key should
operate both
ignition & doors. ...................$6.00 pr.
525931
1947-60
models with Hurd
lock. Same key should
operate both ignition & doors..$6.00 pr.
NOTE: This key
is easily identified because the shaft is quite short.

Sorry for your mechanical and health problems. Personnaly, I avoid mechanics since one of my first encounters with them, more than 30 years ago. There is nothing I hate more than having to straighten a mess I paid for!

[Mrs K Corbin]

could be worse. I heard of a local story where a guy took his car in to get the oil changed and as he was leaving, there was a streak up the highway. He made it a quarter mile before she locked up. That shop had a problem getting business for quite a while, because of the oil streak remaining visible for 6 months or more, and of course the word of mouth. Don't know what shop it was, however. I do my own, except the most modern.

If you have to get an oil change on a Studebaker by someone else. Find a Studebaker guy, or an old-time shop, at least. Most of these new "Quickie Lube" type shops have a set routine that includes of all things testing wipers and checking cabin and engine air filters in order to try to sell you something. They inevitably break something.

[jclary]

I suppose I could be called a "control freak"...but, there are some things I have difficulty trusting to "others." Even after having to inject insulin, and married to a nurse, I have administered every injection myself. With my Studebakers, even on rare occasions I let any shop touch one, I always ask if I can stay in the shop while the car is being worked on. If not, I go elsewhere. On shops with a pit instead of a lift, I always go into the pit with the tech. Failure to do so, will probably result in over half of the grease fittings being overlooked. The transmission risks being overfilled and the overdrive lube not checked at all.

Back in the late 1980's, I took my GT Hawk to a local tire shop. While I was in the owner's office, having a casual conversation with him. He suddenly rushed past me out into the shop. He had observed his tech rip off my stainless hubcaps and toss them on the concrete. He fired him on the spot. I kinda felt sorry for the guy, but, apparently, tension had been building between the two and this was the straw that broke the camel's back.

On shops with an arm style lift, you risk the lift arms being placed under the rockers (thinking of "uni-body" construction) rather than the frame. On cars with reverse threaded studs, you risk the studs being wrung off. No telling what some young tech could do to your tapered rear axle, or individually cam adjusted drum brakes. Fortunately, the shops I deal with, are understanding and tolerate me hovering. In fact, they seem to enjoy seeing the vintage cars and appreciate my assistance.

[raprice]

I can't help but wonder if these fellas used one of those quick oil change places. I avoid them like the plague. I've heard too many horror stories about how these places screwed up someone's engine or transmission. I've been going to the same garage for over 30 years and when they need to fix something on my car, it's done right.
My advice is to find a reputable garage and stick with them.
Rog

[StudebakerGene]

I too have had "jiffy" oil change places screw up the oil drain plug in two brand new Raptors. I travel extensively and when I'm on the road it's hard to find a place to change my own oil which I would rather do myself. I also demand to witness the procedure of if possible, remove and replace the drain plug myself. if this isn't happening--- you aren't touching my rig, end of story!

[BILT4ME]

I had friends way back when that worked at Jiffy lube that i wouldn't trust my friend to work on my car, and that's what he did for JL. I don't touch those places unless it's for a corporate-owned vehicle.

i had a Dodge dealership (Olathe Dodge Chrysler Jeep) that stripped the drain plug in my 98 Dodge Caravan. Thankfully, it stripped the PLUG and not the hole. I used them because I had the coupon for 6 free oil changes. After the first two and they stripped the plug, I didn't care how many "free" ANYTHING I got from them. I don't even buy parts from them anymore. I will drive across the city to someone with half a brain to get it right.

I had another local shop replace the valve cover gaskets on the same van. 6 months later, it was leaking worse than before I had them do it. The VC bolts were not even finger tight! Now I have to do it all again, but this time, I do it myself, because I KNOW I won't have to do it again in the lifetime of me owning the van.

I HATE taking stuff to others because of the incompetence. But, as I get older, I don't have the time. I fear what happens when I can't see it all anymore to HAVE to rely on someone else. Hopefully our son will be close enough and willing to do it for me........

[StudeRich]

When some Bozo in a Tire or Muffler Shop tries to raise your Body on Frame Studebaker by it's Rocker Panel, the whole Body/Cowl will be distorted so that the Windshield no longer fits, it happened to my Son's '59 Lark VIII 4 door Sedan.

This Guy really "did it right", he bothered to place a 2X6 the length of the Rocker so as to destroy the WHOLE Body, ... good Job!

[Hawklover]

Stupid is as stupid be..............in 1975 I had my Avanti at the shop of my dads bud who was a Caddy expert..........the car was there for new rear brake hardware.........anyway my dad and I arrive at the shop after work to pick up the car........and as we pulled up.......I lost it and went POSTAL..........long story short.........one of the morons who worked there raised the rear of the Avanti via a truck bumper jack!!.......you guessed it........that thin Avanti rear bumper was good-n-bent!!!..........Sadly, it was my dads friend, and no amount of me yelling could convince my dad to either sue or demand the shop purchase a new bumper for me.

Lesson painfully learned!!!

[parts2]

Decent small chain here in Town. I use them for my Daily Drivers..which I will not work on mostly, My Stude and my 53 Jaguar XK120 and motorcycles never get touched by anyone else but me..except this oil change. I have a friend with a Hot Rod shop..next time there or I rent a lift stall... About $25 hour and I can get a few things done underneath.. Got to heal first..

Got to do oil change and brakes on my 1800VTX and..and..

I will still be tinkering in garage..but got not rush it I am told.. I am not good at that..

[parts2]

Studebaker International has them.
525810
1947-59 models
with Yale lock.
Same key should
operate both
ignition & doors. ...................$6.00 pr.
525931
1947-60
models with Hurd
lock. Same key should
operate both ignition & doors..$6.00 pr.
NOTE: This key
is easily identified because the shaft is quite short.

Sorry for your mechanical and health problems. Personnaly, I avoid mechanics since one of my first encounters with them, more than 30 years ago. There is nothing I hate more than having to straighten a mess I paid for!

Thanks for the part #. Mine is a hot rod so not sure if original lock as dash and interior is 62 Hawk.. Appears to be 62 Hawk key and lock.

This looks to be what I need. Aluminum key..


Maybe the Enamal Crest
SI..$6 pair of basic Aluminum or $6.95 for the one fancy crest. May get three..two regular and one crest. At Studebaker International.
Ebay guy want $17 for the plain key..