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1958 studebaker truck engine and mechanical questions

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  • Engine: 1958 studebaker truck engine and mechanical questions

    OF, first off I KNOW ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about Studebakers-zero-zilch-nada!

    That said I am buying two trucks. A 1950 short bed thats missing its drive train and a 1958 Studebaker long bed that has its original engine that others on her suggest is a 259. I am hoping to keep this engine as the seller who I have only spoken to over the phone and who sent the pics I have, (Says) it runs but need a fuel pump.

    That in mind, I guess I need to source a fuel pump first. I dont know and have not checked if this is something I can get at NAPA, ROCK AUTO ect or if its a specialty item or what they cost?

    So once I buy it, assuming I do, what are the tricks with these engines. What are their temperaments, ect.?

    Being an old school mopar guy one of the first things mopar guys do is replace the points style ignition system with electronic ignition, eliminating a lot of issues. I dont know if this can be done with this ole studebaker or not but Im looking for ways to make it easier to drive and enjoy as a driver in town? Any conversions of things to address?
    .
    My next question is this. If this engine is bad or blown up, stuck ect, are they worth rebuilding and hos costly are they. I dont want to be a jerk, but if its a minimal power plant thats expensive to rebuild, I will put a 360 or 318 MOPAR in it, because I know those engines inside and out, I know how to source them for a few hundred bucks and I know how to make them run forever and I know how to source a manual or 727 trans cheap and can even get four gears out of it

    My intentions are to use this engine if its affordable. I will surely use it if its not broken. But these are questions I need to ask so I can learn.




  • #2
    273-360 would be easier than putting a 440 in a 63 Valliant.

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    • #3
      The 259 is a great motor and in most cases would take dynamite to destroy, that being said it could have a stuck motor. ALL the parts are available to rebuild it including the crank, you can buy a NOS crank probably less than the cost to turn one. Take a good battery and see if it will turn over........
      It is an addiction!

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      • #4
        Like JBW said above, the 259 is a short stroke motor that features a drop forged steel crank and rods. By keeping the original engine will simplify all of the remaining drive train/attachments.

        I assume that you'll be removing the radiator and after such, you would have direct access to the crank bolt which would enable you to turn the engine by hand. If it won't turn, it may be indeed "stuck" and if so, come back here and someone will be able to provide additional guidance.

        The good news is that if you have to do internal engine work, chances are better than 50/50 that an overhaul will suffice.

        Welcome to the crazy world of Studebakers!

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        • #5
          As far as the fuel pump goes there are 2 choices. The cheap one is an Airtex that has questionable quality. The other is a modified 318 pump from most Studebaker vendors- more money but miles ahead in quality. http://www.studebakervendors.com/
          59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
          60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
          61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
          62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
          62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
          62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
          63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
          63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
          64 Zip Van
          66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
          66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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          • #6
            [QUOTE=RUMBLON;968357]/Cut/I know how to source a manual or 727 trans cheap and can even get four gears out of it./Cut//QUOTE]

            That's nice, but you can get 6 Gears out of a Borg Warner/Studebaker T-85/T-89 Overdrive, including Overdrive!
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner
            SDC Member Since 1967

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