Hi all! this is my first post here and I'm hoping for a little advice, I'm going into rebuilding an automatic out of a 1957 Commander, no real issues, shifted well but leaked everywhere and I just want to be sure it's in good shape before installing it. I'm not a stranger to rebuilding GM transmissions but I haven't done one of these before. Any kind of tips or helpful tricks would be welcome, I know there are always little things we all learn the hard way and am hoping someone can pass some of that knowledge on and save me some potential trouble here. thanks
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Don't put the sprag in the carrier in backwards. Use a light grease to hold thrust washers in place. Check end play per the shop manual. Be careful sliding parts together over cast iron sealing rings. Check the front bushing in the case, and the front pump bushing. Studebaker sized torque converter, and driveshaft yolk seals don't come in generic rebuild kits. The parts manual shows the exploded views of the valve bodies much better than the shop manual. The hardest part is the darn detent ball on the shift linkage. Don't misalign the throttle pressure valve when reassembling the valve body back into the case. It has to engage the tang on the throttle lever and set into place without any side pressure or you may damage the valve (bend it). Keep a magnet handy, because you will drop the band servo strut into the case a time or two before you manage to put the servo into place. Keep track of where the tubes go on the servos. Remove the o-ringed tube pressed into the case under the filter, or you wont be able to remove the rear carrier in front of the governer.Last edited by bezhawk; 01-02-2016, 06:02 PM.Bez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
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Originally posted by JamesS View PostHi all! this is my first post here and I'm hoping for a little advice, I'm going into rebuilding an automatic out of a 1957 Commander, no real issues, shifted well but leaked everywhere and I just want to be sure it's in good shape before installing it. I'm not a stranger to rebuilding GM transmissions but I haven't done one of these before. Any kind of tips or helpful tricks would be welcome, I know there are always little things we all learn the hard way and am hoping someone can pass some of that knowledge on and save me some potential trouble here. thanks
I dismantled and reassembled a Flightomatic a couple of years ago, refurbished all the rubber rings and replaced a couple of bushings. I put up a Blog on the procedure and Bob Johnstone was kind enough to post it on his Studebaker Resource Page. It also mentions a number of technical articles and other publications that are worth a read. I have to admit I still need to finish it off but it's 90% there and ought to be a good resource. Feel free to give me a yell- I'd like to get some feedback/advice on it. You can access it here- http://studebakerflightomatic.blogspot.com.au/
Regards, Steve Winzar
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Thanks Steve, that is a REALLY awesome Website with Great info on rebuilding a Flight-O-matic trans. thanks much.
Stude. owners New to these, will really appreciate all the help and those of us that have not done one in while also can use a refresher course!StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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It is really a pretty straight forward transmission. The one thing I would caution any one not familiar with it is that tube that Bezhawk mentioned. It goes down (up) through the case into the rear carrier assy. and is sealed with an o-ring into the case. I have seen several pretty good transmission men pull their hair out trying to figure out why they couldn't get the rear pump and carrier to come out. Othr than that just follow the pictures and I'm sure that you will be okay. Yeah a lot of those older trannys had a rear pump, that's is why you could push start them.Hobert J. Shy
21103 Harriet
Romulus, MI 48174
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After many attempts to repair my flight o matic i have given in to professional help. The tranny shop said my bands were worn and i had a spring missing in the valve body. So this means someone was in it before me. So after about 5 miles on it i have to get used to a first gear start and a slight delay when i get to a intersection for it to shift back into first to take off again. I always thought it was a second gear start tranny but not now.sigpic
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