Other: ????Underbody undercarriage 1957 GH rust removal and black rust prevention

[Pdskinner]

What do you recommend for the removal of rust and prevention of rust on the undercarriage of 57' golden hawk.
I was looking at several products from Rust Bullett.
What do recommend ?

[jnormanh]

The nice thing would be to have the car all apart and disassembled. You could then soda or CO2 blast everything, apply a good rust-resisting primer and a couple coats of black enamel.

But that's a WHOLE lot of work.

With the car assembled, about all you can do is scrape and wire brush the loose rust off. I wouldn't try to clean off anything other than the loose, flaky stuff. A pressure wash by someone who has a lift would help. Then, when it's good and dry (drive it around for a while), spray everything with a good rust preventive. A garden sprayer will work. try to get inside and behind the hard to reach areas. There are many products on the market.

Here are a few reputable brands. I don't know which is best.

An oily type: http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/outdo...st-protection/

And a dry-to-touch type: http://www.hubbardhall.com/assets/2504050.pdf

It's going to be a messy job.

If there's a Ziebart in your area, they can do a rust proofing for you. I have recently seen a 1968 MGB which was Ziebarted when new, then driven year 'round, sometimes on salted roads. Forty years later it had some rust, but far less than if it had not been Ziebarted.

http://www.ziebart.com/auto-care-services/vehicle-protection/rust-protection

When I lived in New England, many of the garages there offered winter rust proofing. They sprayed everything underneath with used motor oil. It was messy, and the car would drip oil for a few days afterward, but the locals swore by it.

[ProMetalShop]

Jeffery has covered quite a bit. It's hard to do a great job when the car is drivable and hard to get areas are missed. There are a few good products, like rust bullet and pour 15, but they all have there placees in the rust prevention. When your working on floor pan areas underneath, gravity hinders most products from penetrating the seams. If possible before cleaning and prepping it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull back the carpet and check the top side. Here you can clean and inspect to make sure the rust has not penetrated the top side, and need of repair. After all is clean, use a quality metal prep and sealer, and don't be afraid to pour a small amount where the rocker and floor pinch weld together. Here's where gravity will help seep down threw those hard to get areas from below. Now as far as undercoats, I like PAINT ! ! Only because it is easier to care for and washes dirt and road grime easier. Undercoating are fine, but they are coarse and hard to shed road debris. This is just may opinion and is harder to achieve when the vehicle isn't in the restoration process.

[colt45sa]

Always had great luck with POR15. Even did tests with rusted sheet metal by painting strips of different materials and leaving the piece outside in the elements. After several years of exposure, POR15 performed the best. It will surely outlast freshly replaced sheet metal which is not properly prepped and painted. Thirty five years ago, I helped a guy who could not afford to have his badly surface rusted floor pans replaced. We first scraped and wire brushed all the loose rust and vacuumed it carefully. Then we took POR15 and painted the floor followed by a layer of a heavy tee-shirt cut up as you would put down fiberglass matt. We carefully smoothed the t-shirt and followed with another coat of POR15. Once dried, the floor was again nice and stiff,not tin-canny. Here we are today and the floors look like the day after we did it.