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  • Cool/Heat: Radiator curtain

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  • #2
    Why not look at your thermostat?
    64 GT Hawk (K7)
    1970 Avanti (R3)

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    • #3
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      • #4
        Studebaker wouldn't have offered any radiator covering, at least not in recent years. There were winterfronts which covered the old exposed radiators in the early 30's and before, but thermostats are the way to control the temperature since then. I would install a 180 or even 195 thermostat. If you do cover the radiator be sure you don't cover more than about half of it, and if the fan runs close to the radiator cut the opening in the cardboard in the center. If you cover the top half or bottom half, or some such, then the fan will travel through high and low pressure zones with each revolution. This will cause stress on the blades due to flexing. Most later Studebakers have a good tunnel for the fan to suck the air, so this wouldn't be a problem.

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        • #5
          Christophe...you are one who helps keep us a truly international club. I always enjoy your posts. I also have wondered if you use a "translator" to participate on the forum, or are proficient in English. Regardless, I'm glad you participate here. When you first posted about a radiator "curtain"...I wondered if it was some kind of regional term, or a translator problem. However, after reading your post, I think I understand your issue. If this were my vehicle, I would open up the thermostat housing and examine what is going on. Even at the ambient temperatures you describe, a well performing thermostat should maintain its rated temperature. My experience is that most thermostats fail by not opening, therefore causing a critical "overheating" problem. If I had one that failed by not closing...I would consider myself lucky. As you know, you could at least block the radiator opening somewhat until you get to a safe location. If they run hot, you have no option but to shut it down to keep from ruining the engine.

          A thermostat is nothing more than a spring operated valve. Using a temperature sensitive spring to open and close. I'm suspecting that a piece of rusty scale, core wire, or other debris might be stuck in your thermostat preventing full movement of the "mechanism" that controls water flow. It could be that the spring has failed too. In any event, I would either clear the obstruction or replace the thermostat. It is very cheap insurance against worse failure.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #6
            Tom, I might be biased as, here in Europe we got winterfronts (I will keep that word in mind) as late as in the 80's. I still have my grandfather's Renault 4 with the cheap cardboard they generously provided for winter driving. I just thought they were of universal use. I'll keep in mind your very good remark about making an opening in the center of the cardboard to avoid any unnecessary stress to the fan. My car (63 GT - Six) has a big tunnel and the airflow is huge even on idle.

            John, thanks for your kind words. It's nice to hear that from you as your comments are always amongst the best to be read here. I don't use any translator but I wouldn't say I'm proficient in English, hence the "radiator curtain"... I should have looked for the right translation before typing this.
            As for the thermostat, I used a new one when I rebuilt the engine and the cooling system was truly flushed several times. I can also feel its opening when the upper hose gets hot. I'll check it anyhow as this is a quick job.

            Thanks to all and have a nice day.
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            • #7
              Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
              1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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              • #8
                Early thermostats were made with a bimetal spring to open and close, but today's stats are made with a wax pellet that expands to push the stat open. My 91 Olds thermostat failed open also. My Scout wasn't putting out enough heat, so I installed a 205* stat.

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                • #9
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by christophe View Post
                    If I remeber well, the spring that can be seen on newer thermostats around the wax capsule is designed to keep it opened in case of failure.
                    Well, that is just one more indication revealing my age. Since I am not a mechanic by profession, my knowledge is usually based upon the experiences of my last projects, breakdown repairs, and the copyright dates of my technical manuals. I have always been fascinated with mechanical things, and the tools of the trade. Giving testimony to the genius of thermostat construction, is the fact that I've not had to address a failure in so long a time, that I have fallen behind in the latest construction technology.

                    So...when did the "wax" do-hickey (hillbilly technical term) come about?
                    John Clary
                    Greer, SC

                    SDC member since 1975

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jclary View Post
                      So...when did the "wax" do-hickey (hillbilly technical term) come about?
                      I don't know for sure but almost all european vehicles were so equipped in the mid 60's. As a lot of mechanical trends came from the USA, I'd say you got the first ones at the beginning of the decade.
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                      • #12
                        I too have had several thermostats fail open - all of them on my '55 E7 Studebaker pickup daily driver in the '80s. Not sure why, but that thing 'ate' thermostats .

                        On that same truck, I would usually install a 180 degree thermostat in the fall, and then go back to a 160 degree the spring. Plenty of heat from that truck heater.
                        Paul
                        Winston-Salem, NC
                        Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
                        Check out my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/r1lark

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by r1lark View Post
                          On that same truck, I would usually install a 180 degree thermostat in the fall, and then go back to a 160 degree the spring.
                          I'll go that way too. I've just ordered two new ones from Rockauto's and I was really surprised by their prices. I chose the top of the line Stant models and they will cost me 16$ delivered to France! I can't even get one for that price here!
                          Happy new year to everybody.
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