Steering: Professionally repaired Steering Wheel?

[Pdskinner]

Where is the best place to send my steering wheel for a repair?
Thanks

[stude dude]

Where is the best place to send my steering wheel for a repair?
Thanks

If this is for your '57 Golden Hawk, you would be better off trying to find an N.O.S. one. These are paintable so color shouldn't be an issue.

Chris.

[rockne10]

Have you talked to the Shrocks? http://www.shrockbrothers.com/steering_wheels.html

[53k]

Have you talked to the Shrocks? http://www.shrockbrothers.com/steering_wheels.html

Several years ago I them asked about repairing the decent steering wheel on my '53 K and was told that they don't repair steering wheels, they manufacture them.

[jclary]

Several years ago I them asked about repairing the decent steering wheel on my '53 K and was told that they don't repair steering wheels, they manufacture them.

It is my understanding that they remove all the original steering wheel material (plastic) and re-use the steel core to completely mold a new steering wheel over the core. Not a "repaired" wheel, but better than original using better material. For certain year vehicles, they will not sell one without a core. I bought one ('51 Land Cruiser) last year from them and Love it.

[StudeRich]

I would call their process "Re-manufacturing". But whatever you call it, they are the only known to most, Studebaker Steering Wheel experts, and of course they do not come cheap, but they ARE beautiful.

[Swifster]

http://qualityrestorations.com/

Quality restorations does only steering wheels. I'm going to try and do my own. It can't hurt. Eastwood sells a kit to repair your steering wheel. Right now I have more time than money.

[studegary]

Where is the best place to send my steering wheel for a repair?
Thanks

How bad is your wheel? Does it just need a repaint? Does it have cracks? Are parts of it missing?
If it is one of the first two, I would say to read up on it and tackle it yourself. The worst is that you would then have to send it off for an expensive rebuild.

[jclary]

Depending on what your motivation is, I'll add, that if you want to tackle a steering wheel repair...go for it! Over the years, I have done several. From merely repainting, to using epoxy fillers like JB Weld, casting resin, woven, and non-woven fiberglass, etc. None of my efforts have been what I would call "professional." But most have been functional, adequate, and served my needs. At least, most of my repairs were good enough to allow me to use a lace-up steering wheel cover like the ones you see on about 80% (or more) of all vintage cars.

The very best repair (in my opinion) was the one I did on my 1948 Business Coupe. Like anything else, we tend to get better with practice. I had done several by the time I attempted this one. My process is to clean and sand the wheel. Next, fill the cracks with epoxy. More cleaning and sanding. Then, I used non-woven fiberglass matting, applied over the wheel. This was a very messy process, so I used latex gloves to hand mold and form fit the resin wet fiberglass over the wheel. More sanding, smoothing, and cleaning. I also used a white color tint (purchased at a marine center) to color the resin. Instead of having to paint the steering wheel, the colored gel coat ensures that scratches shouldn't show like it would on a painted steering wheel.

It has been so long since I did this, I can't recall how I applied the final gel coats. There is a short pot life for catalyzed resin. I'm thinking I used a gravity feed spray gun to get the smoothest finish possible, catalyzed the resin in very small amounts to apply. There is a window of time that you can build successive coats for best adhesion. Another thing about using tinted (colored) resin...once it cures, you can use rubbing compound to clean up imperfections and improve luster.

To me, the job still couldn't touch the work of the Shrock brothers. However, it has been good enough to win a bunch of trophies, including two or three "best-in-show" awards. However, if you can pony up the money...buy from the Shrocks...I've seen nothing better. (I'm certainly not getting paid for this commercial)

[HHI Hawk]

[QUOTE=jclary;964169]Depending on what your motivation is, I'll add, that if you want to tackle a steering wheel repair...go for it! Over the years, I have done several. From merely repainting, to using epoxy fillers like JB Weld, casting resin, woven, and non-woven fiberglass, etc. None of my efforts have been what I would call "professional." But most have been functional, adequate, and served my needs. At least, most of my repairs were good enough to allow me to use a lace-up steering wheel cover like the ones you see on about 80% (or more) of all vintage cars.



I have restored about 2 dozen steering wheels using the epoxy putty method with very good results. Here are some suggestions/comments that may help:
If this is your first one either, the Eastwood or the POR-15 kits are easy to use. I have found that their putties set up very quickly so don't try to repair all cracks at once. I now use a slower setting putty so I have time to catch it at about the consistency of a bar of soap and trim the excess with a razor knife. Then, after it gets a little harder, I do the major sanding. If you let it harden over night, it gets very hard and much more difficult to sand.
On wide cracks, file them into a vee shape and use 1/8" drill to make holes to anchor the putty filler.
The most difficult areas to sculpt are the cracks at the spoke/rim junction. Try wrapping sandpaper around a dowel slightly smaller than the radius of the junction. With a twisting motion, move the dowel back and forth to get the right curve.
When priming and painting, I place the center of the wheel on a beer can. To minimize runs and sags, it helps if the wheel is horizontal. Start by painting the backside (with bumps) first, then flip it over and to do the front side. If there are runs, they won't show as much if they are in the bumps. Add 2 or 3 coats of clear for protection and to supply a layer to sand and buff to the finish you want. I let the paint harden a few days before buffing and installing the wheel to minimize damaging soft paint. If you wear a ring, be careful to avoid scratches.
Incidentally, if you haven't removed the center plastic horn button before, be very careful. They are easy to break and tough to find a replacement. It uses the resiliency of a 50 year old rubber O-ring to hold it in. I use a single edged razor blade to start breaking the seal all the way around and the a thin knife to work it out more. Once it starts out, some guys use WD40 as a lubricant to help.
Go ahead and try - it is easier than it sounds and, as jclary said, you can always send it out to a professional if you don't like the results.